44 replies to this topic

[Bench Racer]

Presume you drivers tubes enter door. Remove the triple thick metal inside of door from top rear of door to vent window similar to the site picture you posted. Don't remember, one side or both drivers side and passenger side weigh 9 pounds IIRC. Cut drivers side out, weigh it and make a decision for passengers side.

 

Upon decision ^, cut "X" tubes out of passenger side of car, install "X" NASCAR tubes similar to Speed Engineers new car . Cut out door sheet metal and triple thick metal same as drivers side door.

 

If you can implement a harness tube from the main hoop diagonal to the main hoop drivers side to attach harness to remove horizontal between main hoop rearward diagonals.

 

Remove inside door handles and operating rods and replace with 1/16 inch steel cable.

 

Remove all PIA crack seal which is squeezed out in people compartment floor and trunk.

 

What is the weight of the aluminum plate at drivers feet? Remove plate and install aluminized heat barrier matt to underside of floor, tunnel and angled firewall. Did it to my car and a couple other cars with zero heat issues.

 

Black sheet metal and bolts in passenger foot well.

 

Does the big ol RPM tack have value? Is the center column shift light be connected to the OEM tack or could it be connected to the OEM tack? If so get rid of the big ol tack.

 

Looks like the drivers side window net as attachment rounds top and bottom. Legally the window net shall open from the top. If the lower attaching round is steel, replace with aluminum which is 1/3rd the weight of steel. Whatever the upper attaching round is, could you replace it with aluminum?

 

If not using OEM tow loops remove them.

 

Remove cable inside trunk to open gas fill door and replace with ty-wrap. Open trunk, pull ty-wrap to open gas fill door.

 

YES, many of these items are PIA items, but weight is weight and you only do them once and you HAVE weight savings.

 

Please remember, Have Fun.

 

More banter by Bench Racer.

[flashburn]

Thanks for the detailed reply.

 

Presume you drivers tubes enter door. Remove the triple thick metal inside of door from top rear of door to vent window similar to the site picture you posted. Don't remember, one side or both drivers side and passenger side weigh 9 pounds IIRC. Cut drivers side out, weigh it and make a decision for passengers side.  Perfect, that is what I suspected.  I'll take the drivers door under the saw blade tonight.  Do we have to retain the outer window molding that would have sealed to the glass.  I notice it on a lot of SM's, but I've also seen a aluminum piece it it's place on TT cars.

 

Upon decision ^, cut "X" tubes out of passenger side of car, install "X" NASCAR tubes similar to Speed Engineers new car . Cut out door sheet metal and triple thick metal same as drivers side door. I don't have the skill to modify the cage, so I'll be stuck with that weight - but great food for thought, thanks!  Maybe I can do this over winter when I have more skill/time/money

 

If you can implement a harness tube from the main hoop diagonal to the main hoop drivers side to attach harness to remove horizontal between main hoop rearward diagonals. Again, I'll save this for more skill/time/money.

 

Remove inside door handles and operating rods and replace with 1/16 inch steel cable. Started that already, genius easy stuff!

 

Remove all PIA crack seal which is squeezed out in people compartment floor and trunk. Easy to identify, PIA to remove but Ill start that now.

 

What is the weight of the aluminum plate at drivers feet? Remove plate and install aluminized heat barrier matt to underside of floor, tunnel and angled firewall. Did it to my car and a couple other cars with zero heat issues. Several pounds!  I hadn't thought of that as an alternative solution. Thanks!

 

Black sheet metal and bolts in passenger foot well. That's my plastic tray for the cool suit.  Pretty light but pretty necessary IMO!

 

Does the big ol RPM tack have value? Is the center column shift light be connected to the EOM tack or could it be connected to the OEM tack? If so get rid of the big ol tack. The OEM tack does work, but I do like the big ole tack as I'm checking gauges in the straights... I'll have to think about this one, but it's a good callout.

 

Looks like the drivers side window net as attachment rounds top and bottom. Legally the window net shall open from the top. If the lower attaching round is steel, replace with aluminum which is 1/3rd the weight of steel. Whatever the upper attaching round is, could you replace it with aluminum? Both are steel!  I can make this out of aluminum, thanks!  Should be a 

 

If not using OEM tow loops remove them. Waiting on the nylon straps to arrive.

 

Remove cable inside trunk to open gas fill door and replace with ty-wrap. Open trunk, pull ty-wrap to open gas fill door. Smart! Will do so tonight.

[Bench Racer]

Thanks for the detailed reply.

 

Presume you drivers tubes enter door. Remove the triple thick metal inside of door from top rear of door to vent window similar to the site picture you posted. Don't remember, one side or both drivers side and passenger side weigh 9 pounds IIRC. Cut drivers side out, weigh it and make a decision for passengers side.  Perfect, that is what I suspected.  I'll take the drivers door under the saw blade tonight.  Do we have to retain the outer window molding that would have sealed to the glass.  I notice it on a lot of SM's, but I've also seen a aluminum piece it it's place on TT cars.

Please see page GCR-767 rule i. You may completely remove vent window and vent window frame for driver exit....................... Per the site and SMCS rule , if it doesn't say you can do something don't do it. Don't play with aluminum for the vent window frame as it's not legal to remove. As I recall from your pictures the lower part of the vent window frame (below the top of door a mounting bolt remains) has been removed.

[flashburn]

Please see page GCR-767 rule i. You may completely remove vent window and vent window frame for driver exit....................... Per the site and SMCS rule , if it doesn't say you can do something don't do it. Don't play with aluminum for the vent window frame as it's not legal to remove. As I recall from your pictures the lower part of the vent window frame (below the top of door a mounting bolt remains) has been removed.

Yes, that is accurate.  As I read the rules, that's okay because of the roll cage, no?  I inherited the car with that removed, but I have a spare door I could swap the assembly from.

 

The idea of "if it doesn't say you can do something" was probably what I needed to read/hear.  I was interpreting everything as the exact opposite.  IE: If doesn't say I can't - then I can.

[Bench Racer]

Yes, that is accurate.  As I read the rules, that's okay because of the roll cage, no?  

 

The idea of "if it doesn't say you can do something" was probably what I needed to read/hear.  I was interpreting everything as the exact opposite.  IE: If doesn't say I can't - then I can.

Point 1 above, lower part of the vent window frame you are correct, leave as is.

 

Point 2 above, If it doesn't say you can, you can't. Please see page GCR-753 Point C. Authorized Modifications. Basically says followed these written rules, otherwise don't modify.

 

Have Fun

[Bruce Wilson]

Trying to figure out why you need 2 or 3 gallons of gas left at the end of race or Qualifying.  You can get very accurate with remaining fuel and weight down to a few pounds (1/2 gallon).  I've never run out of gas in a race, and not one DQ for weight.  Just need to remember 7 minutes per gallon (1.6) and do the math.  Don't forget to hit the scales every time you change tires.  Yeah I know it's a hassle but ya-know in racing, it's all the little things that count!  I like to run out of gas during qualifying, hopefully near the end of the session, but anything after 4 laps is usually not fast anyway.

[flashburn]

Thanks Bruce, great tip on fuel.  My goal for Gingerman this weekend is to confirm fuel burn rate in practice and ween the tank to near empty for qualifying and racing.

[Tom Hampton]

I measure more like 10 min per gallon burn rate, but I include the out-lap and cool down lap times in that calculation.  I'm assuming Bruce is quoting hot-lap (only) burn-rate. 

Different cars seem to need different amounts of remaining fuel (even within the same model year).  So, its important to know what YOUR car needs.  I know of some that start to bobble at 2+ gallons.  If you need more than 2 gal, you probably have a baffle problem inside your tank.  I generally try to finish with 1 gallon unless we are at a track with a sustained-G left handed turn.  We have one local track that has a very long (> 1/4 mile, 15+ seconds) sustained-G, left-hander that requires an extra 1/2 - 1 gallon depending on the car.  I need an extra 1/2 gal at that track to avoid a late-race stumble in that section. 

[Bruce Wilson]

Yes, that is session length calculation, 25 minute race is 3.5 gallons, etc.  I add a little intuitive extra "splash" for odd situations, but other than that I don't try to overthink it. All the 1.6s I know use the same math, although some break it down to a per minute factor (.143).

[Bruce Wilson]

Here's my routine on weight and fuel:

 

-Find a time before first qualifying to hit the scales.  Different track's scales can be pretty far off.

-Drain all fuel using your fuel test port.  (Miatacage sells these along with the hose for draining), then add a gallon back in for drive to the scales.-

-Determine how much fuel you'll need to make weight using 7 pounds/gal.  (7s make it easy to remember -- 7lb/gal and 7 minutes per gallon)

-I like to have enough ballast in the car to be just over weight, so I can run out in qualifying and not worry about getting DQ'd

-So if car weighs 2286 with one gallon, you're at 4 pounds over (2286-7=2279).  you get used to doing the math in your head pretty quickly

-For races, use the 7 gallon per minute to determine required fuel.  For a 30 minute race, 30 / 7 = 4.3 gallons and round up (4.5)

-Listen to your intuition and throw in an extra splash for good measure

-Reweigh or remember your weight after impound so you can repeat the process.

 

Oregon region always weighs every car after Qual and races, so this whole process just takes minutes between sessions.

 

Remember to re-weigh your car every time you put on a different set of tires or somehow lose a significant amount of body panels 

 

I always get a little grin when I roll across the scales just a few pounds overweight...

 

ymmv, but pretty much everyone I know in a 1.6 uses the same math, just remember 7s.

[Brian129]

I  thought the washer bottle had to be in?  But I have seen no one mention that? 

 

I saw a comment on sheet metal in the passenger footwell,  I think this was referring to an extra piece,  but the ECU cover on a 1.6 should be there right?

 

What about the steel panel covering the fuel filler tube in the trunk?

 

there is the metal plate under the dash,  in front of your knees.   I'm very tempted to make this out of a piece of Black ABS I have,  but again,  I don't think we can, per the rules.  

 

there s always the point on the heater core.   It says it must be in the car per the rules.   It doesnt say it has to be full of water. 

[Todd Green]

Here's my routine on weight and fuel:

 

ymmv, but pretty much everyone I know in a 1.6 uses the same math, just remember 7s.

 

I think everyone else's mileage does vary a bit from yours.  Most get ~10 minutes per gallon.  I know I can run my car ~100 minutes in an enduro and it's an early '90.  Pretty much the same for sprint racing.  I can do a  30 minute race on 3.5 gallons (but throw in an extra gallon because 7 lbs won't lose a race, but running out of gas will if it runs long etc.)  I'd add that keeping a bathroom scale around doesn't hurt.  Personal body weight can vary by several lbs during the day and it makes it easy to know the weight of different sets of tires/wheels without having to run to the scales.

[Bruce Wilson]

  Sure there are people who use the less gas

[Chris Ciufo]

Here's some info on the 1.6 headlight debate. I ran the test day at WGI Thursday at the Glen. I started with the headlight removed and ran 2:17.1, then put it in and ran a 2:16.8. I understand this doesn't take in alot of variables, but what i noticed is that it doesn't seem to affect performance as it pertains to shift points or air/fuel ratio. Going forward i will keep testing an put together some more data points, but for the time being I don't see an advantage to removing it; If anything I think it might better direct the air and reduce some of the turbulence created in the engine compartment. 

[Bench Racer]

Have you legally wrapped your plastic tube from AFM to throttle body?

 

Have you thermocouple checked air temp at the filter, AFM and throttle body.

 

Suggest doing so with out legal 21016 rule changes and with legal 2016 rule changes.

 

Several of us 1.6er's have done so and the thermocouple does not tell stories.

[Ron Alan]

^^^^I assume you are referring to turn signal and not headlight removal? The headlight assembly with all its bits and pieces remains. The title of this thread is misleading.

[Tom Hampton]

^^^^I assume you are referring to turn signal and not headlight removal? The headlight assembly with all its bits and pieces remains. The title of this thread is misleading.

The conversation has morphed into discussing the turn signal delete. But, the OP question was exactly what the thread title states.

[Bench Racer]

Because the thread has morphed into an illegal headlight removal change which was tested, I didn't want folks to be miss informed between removal of, head light illegal and parking light legal.

 

Ron, you are correct, that's why I referenced below.

 

Have you legally wrapped your plastic tube from AFM to throttle body?

 

Have you thermocouple checked air temp at the filter, AFM and throttle body.

 

Suggest doing so with out legal 21016 rule changes and with legal 2016 rule changes.

 

Several of us 1.6er's have done so and the thermocouple does not tell stories.

[Chris Ciufo]

Have you legally wrapped your plastic tube from AFM to throttle body?

 

Have you thermocouple checked air temp at the filter, AFM and throttle body.

 

Suggest doing so with out legal 21016 rule changes and with legal 2016 rule changes.

 

Several of us 1.6er's have done so and the thermocouple does not tell stories.

 

Bench,

 

The car is up to date with the rules and all of the updates have been done, including the marker light removal.

 

This test is with the headlight removed as well as the motor and the entire light assembly gutted.

[Todd Green]

  Sure there are people who use the less gas

 

You're talking a ~30% discrepancy.  That isn't the difference between a front runner and a back marker.  But if you like getting horrible mileage by all means come down and do the 6 hour with us in August (there's even a tow fund and sprint races during the day) and you'll find out that either you get more than 7 minutes a gallon at our track or you'll be making an extra pit stop compared to every other Miata on the track and they'll thank you as you go down a couple of laps