25 replies to this topic

[Brian]

I have a 1992 Spec Miata that I recently purchased for track days and club racing. I downgraded (or upgraded depending on your point of view) from a Lotus Exige Cup. Therefore I am having to learn a whole new car from the perspective of parts and setup.

I need another set of wheels and tires. As I am still getting used to the car and learning about what Spec Miata is all about I do not need or want to spend a fortune at this time. I assume as I spend more time in this race environment I will learn what works best for my car, track, driving style, and rules going forward and that this certainly won't be the last time I purchase wheels and tires.

I realize this is an extremely subjective question but can anyone recommend a decent set of wheels and tires to begin with and where one might be able to puchase said set mounted and ready to race? I welcome any input and suggestions.

Thank you,

Brian

[juliancates]

I have a 1992 Spec Miata that I recently purchased for track days and club racing. I downgraded (or upgraded depending on your point of view) from a Lotus Exige Cup. Therefore I am having to learn a whole new car from the perspective of parts and setup.

I need another set of wheels and tires. As I am still getting used to the car and learning about what Spec Miata is all about I do not need or want to spend a fortune at this time. I assume as I spend more time in this race environment I will learn what works best for my car, track, driving style, and rules going forward and that this certainly won't be the last time I purchase wheels and tires.

I realize this is an extremely subjective question but can anyone recommend a decent set of wheels and tires to begin with and where one might be able to puchase said set mounted and ready to race? I welcome any input and suggestions.

Thank you,

Brian

I'm a big fan of the D-Force wheels. Thirteen pounds exactly, and available in 25mm and 30mm offsets. You can get a package deal on these and RA-1's at philstireservice.com

[Brian]

Can someone briefly explain offset and what the difference between say a 25mm and 30mm offset is (I know it is 5mm, that's not what I mean).

[Johnny D]

SM runs a 15x7 rim and can run a 25 to 38 offset. the numbers are reversed meaning 25 sticks out the most and 38 stick out the least. We can run a spacer up to 13 which mean a 38 offset minus a 13 spacer gives you a 25 max offset. 25 to 30 are fine.

Trendzone has a spot here on this site and you can check with them.
Craig lists sometimes has them.
Local track, check with the drivers on where they got them.
Some CA places that sell tires/rim may bring to track saving on shipping cost.
WTB here in the classifieds
Some SoCal drivers here may chim in.
AIM does NorCal for Laguna, Infineon and Thunderhill and has track support.
J~

[Scottie]

PM sent.

[Mtaylor]

I also come form the land of the lotus, so if you know lotus. Team Dynamics baby,

TD motorsport wheel for the miata 100 or so each in black at 5x racing or tread zone. Good deal.

You made a good move, the lotus is great but costly if it gets bent, the miata is tuff , inexpensive, and as you will learn fast with a bit of practice. Just remove the brake pedal you do not need it, it will just slow you down which is a bad thing in SM. And I think, Mario Andretti said it best the brake are not for slowing the car, any good drive should know this at this level.

[Keith Novak]

What's your first set of wheels? At some point, you'll probably find you'll want most of your wheels the same, and readily available. Before long you'll probably have at least 3 sets out of necessity (2 dry and 1 rain). Others, obviously have more. I have Kazera's, TD 1s, TD 1.3s, TD 1.2s. Some are 25mm offset and some are 30mm.

That can be a pain. If I break a wheel, flatspot a tire, or fill the bead with grass and rocks, few of my other wheels are compatible. That makes it hard to mix and match to complete a set. For example, you bugger one wheel with your rains... In a pinch, it's easier to canibalize one rim from another set and remount a rain on it than to remount your whole set of rains, and then later mount the 4 drys you took off on different rims. I've found a number of inconvinient scenarios.

If you like what you've got and they're good SM rims that people still sell, I'd consider buying more of the same. If not, I'd pick ones that are readily available (not cool and cheap but obsolete), with the offset you want to go with (some prefer using spacers), and plan to stick with that model for a while.

Just my $.02

[Brian]

Cost is a big reason we switched from the Lotus. It was a fun car but expensive. I ground a rotor and over $1,000 and over a month later I was back driving. Much cheaper bad day in the Miata. Plus we never had anyone to run with. Everyone was either much faster or much slower.

I have no idea what is on the car now. I will check when I am at the track tomorrow. But it shouldn't matter. I'm that whatever I choose for the next set will be what I stick with going forward and whatever is on there now will probably become a backup to the backup. My father-in-law also has a car so I'm sure we are going to end up with a few sets of wheels and tires going forward. I just want to make a good, informed decision ad to what those will be.

[HoneyBadger - BrianW]

I have a set of Team Dynamics for my rains and then switched to the TRMotorsports wheels. They are the Tire Rack house brand. I figure at $89 each I can afford to just toss the rim if they get bent. So far they have held up well for me, but I am a newer driver. If you check the old site, there are a bunch of posts about these. The general consensus was that they hold up pretty well and are cheap.

[Cy Peake]

Kosei K1 from Tire Rack. I've got 17 right now.

[TreadZone]

PM sent
Joe

[Jeff Wasilko]

I'm a big fan of the D-Force wheels. Thirteen pounds exactly, and available in 25mm and 30mm offsets. You can get a package deal on these and RA-1's at philstireservice.com

2nd. I picked up a set last year and they've been great.

[Jeff Wasilko]

Kosei K1 from Tire Rack. I've got 17 right now.

17? You running a 5th wheel sometimes? :-)

[philstireservice]

D-Force is the best Spec Miata wheel available. Low pressure cast. TD - no, TRM - no, Kosei - no, Kazera - no.


Get the correct offset, why run spacers and add weight.

90-97 can run 25mm or 30mm, 99 - up can't run 25mm, will make the track too wide.

[HoneyBadger - BrianW]

D-Force is the best Spec Miata wheel available. Low pressure cast. TD - no, TRM - no, Kosei - no, Kazera - no.


Get the correct offset, why run spacers and add weight.

90-97 can run 25mm or 30mm, 99 - up can't run 25mm, will make the track too wide.

I was under the impression that 25mm on the 99's were OK.

[ChrisA]

I was under the impression that 25mm on the 99's were OK.

I was too. What's the conclusion on this?

[George Fusner]

There are some cons about the D-Force. I borrowed a set of them once from a buddy and found that their small lug holes make it a major PITA to install them on the car. Took me twice as long to put one on as all of my other rims...even with long studs. Also you have to use the hub-centric ring for them to be centered when you put them on the car. If these are not glued in they tend to fall out of the rim or even stay on the hub when you take the wheels off the car. I just see it as another thing to lose and a headache. The best wheels out there by far are the 949 racing 6UL wheels but they aren't made anymore for SM. I was lucky enough to get a set of them, I wish I had bought more than one set tho. I run the TD 1.3s for my rains and haven't had one issue out of them. I have been hit in the wheel multiple times and they aren't bent, cracked or anything. I have recently gotten two sets of the TR Motorsports C1M wheels from tire rack and love them. I have also been hit in the wheel on those and they have no damage other than pain scratches on the surface.

[Todd Green]

I have recently gotten two sets of the TR Motorsports C1M wheels from tire rack and love them. I have also been hit in the wheel on those and they have no damage other than pain scratches on the surface.

+1 for the C1M's. Had one wheel hit and it seems fine other than cosmetic damage on the lip (I've run several events including a 3 hour enduro on it since it was hit). Black means I don't have to clean them often. They have a good lip for using a camber gauge. Just large enough holes in the spoke pattern to get your hand in to pull out built up rubber without crawling under the car. Not to mention a good price. Especially if you combine them with a set of tires for the free mounting.

[philstireservice]

There are some cons about the D-Force. I borrowed a set of them once from a buddy and found that their small lug holes make it a major PITA to install them on the car. Took me twice as long to put one on as all of my other rims...even with long studs. Also you have to use the hub-centric ring for them to be centered when you put them on the car. If these are not glued in they tend to fall out of the rim or even stay on the hub when you take the wheels off the car. I just see it as another thing to lose and a headache. The best wheels out there by far are the 949 racing 6UL wheels but they aren't made anymore for SM. I was lucky enough to get a set of them, I wish I had bought more than one set tho. I run the TD 1.3s for my rains and haven't had one issue out of them. I have been hit in the wheel multiple times and they aren't bent, cracked or anything. I have recently gotten two sets of the TR Motorsports C1M wheels from tire rack and love them. I have also been hit in the wheel on those and they have no damage other than pain scratches on the surface.

Nothing a thin walled socket won't solve. Also, the Miata wheels are hubcentric, no need for hub rings.

[TreadZone]

I have a couple sets of black TR Motorsport wheels in stock. They have been on backorder for a while.
I have RA1's and R888's to put on them too.
Joe