163 replies to this topic

[Bench Racer]

Tom, a few years back, OEM or FatCat?  Neither here nor there, FatCat had a dyno graph showing 3 different bump stops. Through 3/4 inch life was good for the Spec Miata bump stop. I would suggest anyone running 5/8-3/4 inch bump stop clearance is constantly using the first 3/4 inch or close to it. Being I'm on the frugal side I have Dewy linear gauges at all four shocks and presuming I don't curb it or go off track during a session I can check the maximum shock travel in bump.   

[Danica Davison]

John Davison told me that the only way to win was to run 44psi at 160F in all four when you come off the track.

 

LOL don't listen to that guy.  He doesn't know shit

[Raw Knuckles]

Tom, a few years back, OEM or FatCat?  Neither here nor there, FatCat had a dyno graph showing 3 different bump stops. Through 3/4 inch life was good for the Spec Miata bump stop. I would suggest anyone running 5/8-3/4 inch bump stop clearance is constantly using the first 3/4 inch or close to it. Being I'm on the frugal side I have Dewy linear gauges at all four shocks and presuming I don't curb it or go off track during a session I can check the maximum shock travel in bump.   

Bench, excuse my ignorance but what are "Dewy linear gauges"?

[Bench Racer]

Bob, not ignorance by any stretch.  Using two different pieces of small diameter aluminum tubing with the larger tube JB welded to a V groove made in the spring perch adjusting tube. I slightly flattened the larger diameter aluminum tubing with pliers so that when the smaller diameter aluminum tubing is inserted inside the larger diameter tubing when the inside diameter aluminum tubing is moved it stays put. I made a flat spot on the bottom of the FatCat shock isolator and when the chassis moves down, the small tube is pushed down by the shock isolator. Eyeball/measure after session, pull small diameter aluminum tube upward after inspection/measurement. PM your phone number and I'll send a phone photo. If I wasn't computer illiterate I' post a picture.  

[Sphinx]

Jim,
Im definitely interested in a new version. If you are taking requests, a few things I'd like addressed are 1) 1.6l v. 1.8l differences in setup; 2) differences for Toyo v Hoosiers; and 3) the effect of changes that less experienced drivers can notice (for example, comparing what a driver can feel from the old to the new setup guide).

[Alberto]

Was the setup guide ever updated?

[dstevens]

Drago will sell you one for $35k.  As a bonus it comes with a free championship winning SM build...   

 

You guys should spin a thread off for suggestions on what to update.  With the depth on knowledge here it wouldn't be too difficult to get some more tips.

 

What would you want to see updated?

[Miamirice]

A set up guide for NA (94), also what modifications are allowed and have good return on investment (coilovers with Fat Kat?)

Steering rack spacer kit?

I am new to SM after 10 years of racing and don’t have a clue on these cars. but I am now a Convert. I know I should have bought an NB at this point but the truth is I bought the car for the aluminum trailer I wanted. After I drove it, I saw the light to get into SM.

[Bench Racer]

A set up guide for NA (94), also what modifications are allowed and have good return on investment (coilovers with Fat Kat?)

Steering rack spacer kit?

I am new to SM after 10 years of racing and don’t have a clue on these cars. but I am now a Convert. I know I should have bought an NB at this point but the truth is I bought the car for the aluminum trailer I wanted. After I drove it, I saw the light to get into SM.

If your going to race SCCA, start with reading/understanding the GCR (General Competition Rules) and SMCS (Spec Miata Class Specifications). Or if NASA, read their rules. My point, in the SCCA your not allowed to use steering rack spacers. Questioning "good return on investment" is a non starter. If you were an equal driver to let's say a National Champion, you'd need every allowed modification to attempt to stay in the ball park. Please remember, if it does not say you can do something in the rules, you can't do it. Get to the track and hook up with a Spec Miata racer/racers and get a picture of what's happening. Being your post showed up in this Revised Set up Guide thread, use the set-up guide as is and you'll be in good shape.

 

Welcome to the craziness and most of all have fun.

[TommyB]

Regarding shock travel, would you not accomplish the same thing by putting a zip tie around the shock shaft and on top of the bump stop , then observe how far the tie has been moved up the shaft?

[davew]

The zip tie trick works great, once per session. SO you can run 15 perfect laps, just the way you want it. On the last lap of the session you hit a curb to hard and slide the zip tie an extra 1/2 inch. Now you are basing your results off of a single extra hard bump.

 

Dave

[Miamirice]

If your going to race SCCA, start with reading/understanding the GCR (General Competition Rules) and SMCS (Spec Miata Class Specifications). Or if NASA, read their rules. My point, in the SCCA your not allowed to use steering rack spacers. Questioning "good return on investment" is a non starter. If you were an equal driver to let's say a National Champion, you'd need every allowed modification to attempt to stay in the ball park. Please remember, if it does not say you can do something in the rules, you can't do it. Get to the track and hook up with a Spec Miata racer/racers and get a picture of what's happening. Being your post showed up in this Revised Set up Guide thread, use the set-up guide as is and you'll be in good shape.

Welcome to the craziness and most of all have fun.

Thx. I already did a NASA weekend at PBIR. I intend to do SCCA as well but just not motivated to buy 2 additional set of tires so focused on NASA for now. The steering rack info is helpful as I have read the rules on NASA but not SCCA. Wish they could be in sync with eachother

So you are saying the set up numbers need no tweak for the NA?.

[Xav]

...Wish they could be in sync with eachother

...

Please clarify, I thought I nailed this down awhile back to have them line up.

[Miamirice]

Please clarify, I thought I nailed this down awhile back to have them line up.

I have not yet read the SCCA rules but already Benchracer mentioned the steering rack brackets are not legal for SCCA yet are apparently legal in NASA?

[Jim Drago]

Please clarify, I thought I nailed this down awhile back to have them line up.

Right before you took over NASA allowed spacers under the steering rack on NA cars to help correct bump steer, SCCA has not and likely will never allow that. 

But someone could always send in a letter or Xavier can ask smac directly

[Jamz14]

Please clarify, I thought I nailed this down awhile back to have them line up.

Please don't make our rules identical to scca. I like toyos, and the extended ball joints are a much better solution than offset bushings. As matter of fact take us further away by getting rid of useless rules like having to keep a blower motor in the car. We can lead and not just follow. I get that it is efficient to follow them on engine rules. They have the talent body to look at those types of things. But we have enough talent to know that blower motors and ac/heating control panels being left in the car do nothing to advance any objective in the cars. They only make it harder for fat guys to make weight.

[Jim Drago]

Please don't make our rules identical to scca. I like toyos, and the extended ball joints are a much better solution than offset bushings. As matter of fact take us further away by getting rid of useless rules like having to keep a blower motor in the car. We can lead and not just follow. I get that it is efficient to follow them on engine rules. They have the talent body to look at those types of things. But we have enough talent to know that blower motors and ac/heating control panels being left in the car do nothing to advance any objective in the cars. They only make it harder for fat guys to make weight.

I disagree, It only benefits the class the more the rules are the same. The worst example is the tires. It is our largest expense and being on two different tires makes no sense at all.  I understand your frustrations with some of the rules. I am sure most of us have issues with something in the rules, but IMO, keeping the rules the same or easy enough to go back and forth is very important to the class. 

Jim

[Jamz14]

Ok, then which direction do you support? Are you guys going to adopt the ball joints or are you going to compel Xavier to pull them?

My point wasn't to be different for the sake of being different. It was to show we can lead too and more swiftly get rid of stupid rules.

[Jim Drago]

Ok, then which direction do you support? Are you guys going to adopt the ball joints or are you going to compel Xavier to pull them?

My point wasn't to be different for the sake of being different. It was to show we can lead too and more swiftly get rid of stupid rules.

"you guys" I run both organizations?   

What I support has nothing to do with which way is best or 'right" btw, just an opinion...    "I" would not adopt the ball joints as there is already a solution to get from a to b, without introducing C and other potential issues like going over on max trac width or potential failures as we have not tested. Same reason I didn't like the new hibs, expensive and failing at the same rate or faster than stock.  The best method was bending the spindles as we did for years but there is no way to write that in the rules or we would have.  You can't instruct the class to intentionally manipulate a factory part, Mazda would not like that at all. Still it would be my preferred method.  

And one mans stupid rules is another mans rules creep. If we all agreed on what was 'stupid" and what wasn't, it would be much easier for all. 

[Bench Racer]

My point wasn't to be different for the sake of being different. It was to show we can lead too and more swiftly get rid of stupid rules.

Remove all the parts for what you call stupid rules, take off the SM identification off and put on whatever class identification which allows you to remove those stupid pars rules. E and F production class come to mind.