43 replies to this topic

[chris haldeman]

I tried a set. The set I tried gets an F-

[FTodaro]

Just saved me 750.00.

 

i just the oldest front hubs i can find and repack them. The old ones that have that little extra Ring on the inside of the outer cap.... Then i use Kyle Webb's fly by night special grease, it gives you more camber also.

[Johnny D]

Can we hear the story on this...like how it went from solving an issue, tested at the 25hr, approved for use in SM and then a F- grade ??

 

J~

[Bench Racer]

Johnny, look at the tippy toeing to set the axial load with the nut. That process gave me the feeling one was adjusting a prayer and hopping. 

[chris haldeman]

F- grade earned this way..
Lasted a grand total of 11 sessions
During those sessions they were cleaned and greased twice. Adjusted 6 times and then failed.
As if I need more reasons for an F- the process to adjust involves removing the wheel,caliper,rotor,4 stupid easy to strip Allen screws then another Allen clamp bolt then a 27mm iirc socket. If you tighten to where there is no play the wheel won't spin. If you leave play you can't set tow,camber,or caster to the level I require. Aka F-

[Ron Alan]

I get Chris's frustration. Compared to what we are used to it is a process. Knock on wood I havn't had any issues! I will check back after a 2nd trip to the 25HR event.

[Johnny D]

I have one on my rt frt, and dealing with the play. 11 sessions huh, should be soon then, maybe get more life with the Toyo's. Are they heavy enough ?

 

My question was more towards how the SMAC or whoever got this in (to Mazda too) for us to use.

 

J~

[chris haldeman]

The part is beautiful. The machining and finished product is spot on in quality. Failure point is that the bearings used can not be tightened to the point of no play. Take the same hub and press in a large sealed roller bearing and it could be gold

[Erik Hardy]

For those who are not aware, bearing preload on tapered rollers plays a significant role for bearing life. One of the worst things you can do is over tighten tapered roller assemblies. They are meant to be slightly "loose" when cold, once up to temperature they expand and tighten up. By over-tightening them to remove all slack when cold, they are overheating on the track. 

 

 

For more information, you can read more here:

https://www.timken.c...-Brochure-1.pdf

[weathered1]

We bought 12 of these bearings. Two of them failed pretty quickly. I called Mazda and requested a warranty adjustment and was told to call STM directly.

I was told by STM they haven't had any failures and I could buy replacements on their site. They also said 2 failures out of 12 is low percentage, I disagree!

It looks like a great idea for a replacement but I think the bearings are to soft to last. I took some pictures as proof but I have to go thru some BS to post I guess.

[steveracer]

17% failure rate is low?!?!?

[Johnny D]

[Bench Racer]

Johnny, that ^ came from Uecker in the cheap seats. It's a Mr. Baseball thing. Google the guy. 

[Johnny D]

Johnny, that ^ came from Uecker in the cheap seats. It's a Mr. Baseball thing. Google the guy. 

 

No Shit.

 

I was referring to the 17% failure rate as being low as "just a bit outside"

 

J~

[fw8787]

I had a similar negative experience with these. Mine did not fail but had about 20hrs on them when i switched back to the normal hubs. They required constant adjustment every 3-4 sessions and the process as described above is quite tedious. 

[OrangeCrush86]

On my list of winter maintenance is to do the hubs on my 90 SM. Is there an updated consensus on these units?

 

As a follow up question, are the OEM hubs the only other option? Is it OK to buy some MOOG or Timken hubs online or does it have to be a Mazda factory part to be legal?

[Bench Racer]

Search this site or for all the front hub threads to understand what folks are doing to refresh the OEM hubs.

 

Search for the video of these bucks up hubs. For my 2 cents, it's a BS setup required.

 

OEM hubs, these bucks up and OEM aftermarket hubs are allowed.

[davew]

Everybody has their personal opinion, including me.

 

I do not like Moog or Timken front hubs. Other products from both companies are great, but I do not like their front hubs.

 

I have been using front hubs from Raybestos for several years. Work better than or equal to anything else I have tried. They still go bad, but there isn't much we can do about it.

 

Good grease, regular maintenence extends life, but the still go bad

 

dave

[FTodaro]

I am a big fan of old OEM hubs. Repacked every 3 weekends or after every rain which ever is sooner, has worked for me.

[Steve Scheifler]

Unfortunately, old/original hubs are increasingly difficult to find, and the likelihood that ones taken off salvaged cars are in fact original decreases as the miles on those increase. Do you have advice for identifying genuine OEM hubs taken from older cars? With NA cars it was the number of balls.

Come to think of it, has anyone determined roughly what model year there was a change to less durable parts? Or is it possible that replacement hubs sold by Mazda (including through dealers) have long been from a different supplier than those installed at the factory? That would not be surprising or unprecedented.