Let me give you guys some background. The car started the setup process at ~47 or 48% cross weight RF / LR with the standard camber and toe settings that most of us run. The handling balance had been inconsistent and I wanted to address this as part of this setup. On right hand corners, like T3 and T5A at Thunderhill, I couldn't put the power down b/c the rear would kick out. The car was also difficult to transition from T3 into T4 and which is a quick transition and into T6 which is the beginning of a long straightish bit of full throttle.
One of the first things I checked once on the scales with the car was weighted was how much space I had between the top of the shock and the bottom of the Fat Cat bump stops. I had less space on the driver side rear. I think it was less than Frank's finger but I don't think Frank ever gave us precise measurements on that appendage so I can only approximate. I could barely get my finger in there to touch the shock shaft. (Get your mind out of the gutter). Because of this I started my setup by raising the rear a few rounds until I had enough space there. Because of all that ^^, I was curious whether I had lighted the rear too much. Spoiler alert - Testing showed that I had indeed raised the rear too much.
After this, I did the same to the front. Generally speaking, the fronts seem to have a wee bit more space "at ride height" to fit fingers and other appendages than the rears do.
Depending on the amount of cross your running there is nothing you can do in the set up that effectively puts more wt on the rr.
i focus on getting Ride height right, cross right and camber right the wt on the wheels is what it is.
Yes and no. At the end of the day, I wound up right around 50% cross weight. However, before my last adjustment I was at something like 49.5 or .7 cross%. In order to achieve 50%, I could have decreased the ride height on the driver's side front (LF) or the passenger side rear (RR). I chose to do the driver front since I was concerned about running out of shock travel in the rear and that skewed the Left / Right weight from 52%L to 52.3%L. Does that matter? I don't really know. Hence the thread. Mathematically / theoretically, it might. Then again, the car has soft rubber suspension bushings so I'm not sure how precise to set my standards.
Many factors go into a set up but because I know you Alberto, I know your car, I know the tracks you drive and I know the tires you drive...here is my advice. Cross at 50-50.3, front camber at 3.0-3.2, Rear camber 3.2-3.4(.2 higher than front), 1/8" total toe out in front. 1/16" total toe in in rear. Ride height equal front to rear(no rake)and error on the side of a little higher than to low(Maybe 4.5" off pinch weld or 3/4" from shock top to bump...assuming you have fatcats). After all this is done re-connect your swaybar link(you should have disconnected 1 side when you started) once the car is back under full load. Soft/soft on your car! This is the hole furthest from the 90 degree bend!
As mentioned by others...getting weight to specific corners should not be a concern. Weight forward or rearward is more important depending on how the car handles in general. Lots of little ways to move this around if you need to...to many to go into here.
Once you get back on track with your new set-up here is the 1 piece of advice I will give you...as you go back to the throttle at turn in and your car starts to rotate...TRUST that it will only rotate so far as it loads and you are on to the next corner pedal to the metal!
those camber and toe specs are close to what I've been running except rear camber.
So why more rear camber compared to front? I'm going to google the theoretical behind camber settings but what is your experienced opinion behind that? Drago says a few tenths less rear camber in another thread...
Also, I think you meant to say 3/8" not 3/4" from shock top to bump...
I did a test day this weekend at Thunderhill on Saturday. The first session was a clusterfuck since I had forgotten that Toyo RRs like lower pressures than the old RA1s. Once I figured that out and targeted 34 PSI hot, I attempted some testing.
At the end of the day, I wound up with the the rear 2 rounds lower and the driver front 1/4 turn up and set the rear bar to full soft and the car was better. I had started out with the rear bar set with one side to medium. I had originally set the rear camber to -2.7 when on the scales and I had more understeer than I used to have. I'm wondering if increasing the rear camber to -3.x like Ron mention will help that or whether I should set one or both ends of the sway bar to medium...
It was a fun day. Nice to be on track again after 16 months. I'm going to recheck things this weekend.