39 replies to this topic

[Brandon]

What make/model of jacks have you guys had good experience with?

I bought one of the HF AL 3K pound jobbers last year and attempting to take the Miata off the stands last weekend and I ended up with zero lift after multiple pumps. Move to grab the other 2-ton model (Torin I've had for YEARS) and it managed to do basically the same thing - barely any lift.

Zero leaks under both jacks so I'm stumped. I've never heard of jack fluid evaporating but hey, I'm not an expert.

So I'm in the market for jacks: both at the track and at the garage.
The track only has to lift half a car (the Miata or the M3) and the garage one will be for the Expedition.

I'm considering for the garage the seriously low-profile models (AC Hydraulics, Ranger, or Omega) since I don't have to haul them around in the trailer and with blocking it will reach all points under the cars/truck.

However, getting into the lightweight AL jacks for the track I'm getting conflicting data and was hoping for some clarification from those who might have used them. The models for the track I'm seeing are Brunnhoelzl, Zinko, & Pace Sports but those seem to be the "Corvette ZR-1" models of jacks.

Basically, I'm one who's willing to pay for good tools and find buying and re-buying the cheapies beyond a pain: especially when you're in a crunch mode and your dollar savings on a jack means you can't get your car off the jack stands when you need to.

Sooo, feedback and opinions welcome and requested!

Thanks!
Brandon

[fishguyaz]

brandon,
i am the same as you as far as buying quality tools. i usually dont by stuff at HF, but i did get the 4,000lb AL racing jack on the recommendation of a friend.
the larger capacity jack at HF has the square pad, not the round one.
I am very happy with this jack; its light, and it has lifted my car every time i needed it to for 2 years now.

[dstevens]

Buy a Brunnhoelzl and you'll never buy another jack as long as you are racing. In the event anything does happen to it they have repair parts. From time to time they come up at RacingJunk.com. Irvan-Smith in Concord has them new at a bit of a discount.

[Zauskycop]

I had that problem with my HF jack, and found that they are very sensitive to tipping during storage. Make sure you bleed it correctly... I have had mine for 8 years!

[ChrisA]

...
So I'm in the market for jacks: both at the track and at the garage.
The track only has to lift half a car (the Miata or the M3) and the garage one will be for the Expedition...

I'm considering for the garage the seriously low-profile models (AC Hydraulics, Ranger, or Omega) since I don't have to haul them around in the trailer and with blocking it will reach all points under the cars/truck...

Basically, I'm one who's willing to pay for good tools and find buying and re-buying the cheapies beyond a pain: especially when you're in a crunch mode and your dollar savings on a jack means you can't get your car off the jack stands when you need to.

Sooo, feedback and opinions welcome and requested!

Thanks!
Brandon

For the shop look into Norco, or if you want the best Milwaukee Hydraulics. The 2-ton just fits under the Miata. I got a better price calling Milwaukee than I found on the web. I take it to the track, but I would rather not. I'll probably look for an Aluminum one sometime.

[davew]

Admitedly, I abuse a jack more than most of you. I tried several versions of the cheap aluminum jacks. None lasted more than a couple months. Again a couple months for me is a couple years for most of you. Last year I found a midprice aluminum jack. I am not willing to spend big bucks for a Brunnhoelzl. Been using this jack both at the shop and at the track since mid-summer. Still working fine. I am ordering anoither one this week to evaluate. If it works out I will be adding it to my website. Costs about $500. I'll let you know

Dave

[joeg5982]

I have used my PACE for about 15 years--one rebuild on it.

For the money, you cannot beat HF--I have two for the shop. One is well over ten years old.

[Brandon]

Admitedly, I abuse a jack more than most of you. I tried several versions of the cheap aluminum jacks. None lasted more than a couple months. Again a couple months for me is a couple years for most of you. Last year I found a midprice aluminum jack. I am not willing to spend big bucks for a Brunnhoelzl. Been using this jack both at the shop and at the track since mid-summer. Still working fine. I am ordering anoither one this week to evaluate. If it works out I will be adding it to my website. Costs about $500. I'll let you know

Dave

Look forward to your "report". What's the weight of this jack you've been so far pleased with? That for me is the biggest thing as while we're out at the track the wife may need to lift/move around the jack herself so the lighter the better.

[Adam Molaver]

i've had similar behavior from all my cheapie jacks. what has quickly and easily fixed it is to twist the handle so it is 'open' (pad should drop if raised), then pump it 20 or 30 times. twist it closed, jack works as expected. no idea why it works or whats going on inside the cylinder, but it resolves the problem with no cost

ahm

[Adam Molaver]

double post - doh!

[dstevens]

I'd be interested to see what Dave comes up with, sounds similar to the Zinko. The last HF I bought was DOA. Talk at the track seems to be change the fluid to get better results. And the pump thing Adam mentioned. There are hobby teams that have had them for a couple of years. Those seasons are every other week for nine months. Like other things at HF, sometimes it's good, sometimes it's a crap shoot. The pro shops and teams around here have either Brunnhoelzl or Pace. Though if one has a 300k rig, a pair of 50k cars, spending a few grand a week on tires an 800-1500 jack isn't that big of a deal. I can't roll like that, though. I'd easily go 500 for a quality, made in USA product that has replacement parts capability.

[Brandon]

Though if one has a 300k rig, a pair of 50k cars, spending a few grand a week on tires an 800-1500 jack isn't that big of a deal. I can't roll like that, though. I'd easily go 500 for a quality, made in USA product that has replacement parts capability.

DING! DING! DING! DING!

We haff a winnah! To me the big thing is repairability. If I can buy replacement parts then I know I can take it apart and probably fix my $500 tool instead of junking the $75 tool. Besides, we can call it "being green", right? Not adding to the landfills and all that.

[dstevens]

We've got a saying in our biz, "buy once, cry once". The cheaper jacks at HF and the chain auto parts stores are made by outfits that are manufacturing contractors, not necessarily lift or suspension companies. It's not that they can't make good stuff offshore, they do. In this case the contract lines rarely make replacement parts available and change the designs frequently. They are made to hit a certain price point that makes them cheap and disposable.

[Sphinx]

My problem is that my jacks aren't sufficiently "low profile". I've got a 1.6L that has to be put up on wooden boards before I can fit my standard type Sam's club jack. Any suggestions on one that will fit easily under the front to grab the front subframe and lift without the need for boards? In the garage, lifting from the sides is a bit of a bear given the limited space by the surrounding walls.

I've got one of those Sears aluminum racing jacks that came out 6-7 years ago. POS. Had two of them, one replaced under warranty. Online reviews are terrible. That one is definitely leaking, as evidenced by the hydraulic fluid on my floor. But a winter project to take it apart and see if the seals can be replaced, fixed.

[Brandon]

My problem is that my jacks aren't sufficiently "low profile". I've got a 1.6L that has to be put up on wooden boards before I can fit my standard type Sam's club jack. Any suggestions on one that will fit easily under the front to grab the front subframe and lift without the need for boards?

Have I got just the jack for you!

Omega 29023 jack

It weighs a bunch but with it being for the garage, this is the one I'm considering.

But then there's also this one:
Ranger RFJ3000LPF jack

A few pounds lighter but it's about 12" shorter overall (implying its "jack reach" is shorter). It might work for a Miata only but I think it will be too short to reach that jack point on our M3.

Believe me, you're not alone with your 1.6 being "too low" for the front sub-frame to be reached. None of my jacks would reach either. It's the same problem with reaching the front jack point on our M3 - too low of a vehicle and too far back to reach.

That ASEDeals website also has a number of AL jacks that are intriguing - the Zinko & Ranger models specifically.

C'mon Dave! Get that jack distribution agreement signed!

[ChrisA]

DING! DING! DING! DING!

We haff a winnah! To me the big thing is repairability. If I can buy replacement parts then I know I can take it apart and probably fix my $500 tool instead of junking the $75 tool. Besides, we can call it "being green", right? Not adding to the landfills and all that.

That's one reason why I went with the Milwaukee jack, it's made & assembled in USA. Plus, you can get parts or service for it.
As for jacking the car, I don't try to get to the front subframe jack point from the front. I jack the rear from the pumpkin, place the jack stands and then hit the front subframe from the side.

[Glenn]

That's one reason why I went with the Milwaukee jack, it's made & assembled in USA. Plus, you can get parts or service for it.
As for jacking the car, I don't try to get to the front subframe jack point from the front. I jack the rear from the pumpkin, place the jack stands and then hit the front subframe from the side.

Who jacks from the subframe? Use the pinch welds, and place a short piece of reinforcing in place.

[Brandon]

Tow-may-toe, tow-mah-toe - whether you lift the front, left, right, or rear, it still gets you a pair of wheels up in the air.

Depending upon what you're trying to do it may be quicker to lift the front or the rear and getting the lowest height & the longest reach is helpful.

[ChrisA]

Who jacks from the subframe? Use the pinch welds, and place a short piece of reinforcing in place.

Maybe "subframe" wasn't the right term. Front crossmember? Yeah, I use the pinch welds if I'm just lifting a side, but if I want the whole car up in the air I use the pumpkin & front crossmember.

[Ron Alan]

We have the HF "Aluminum racing 1.5 ton jack" coming up on 2 years. Maybe we are just lucky it still works fine Downside is it can't lift that high...but we just get the car on the stands then use a 4x4 block and repeat. Other thing is if your not careful releasing the pressure it will drop your car like a rock!!! But I'll put up with these for the $48 I paid All for USA but I had to buy Toyo tires...the USA jack will have to wait!