Lightweight AL jack - and no Harbor Freight
#1
Posted 04-19-2011 09:25 PM
I bought one of the HF AL 3K pound jobbers last year and attempting to take the Miata off the stands last weekend and I ended up with zero lift after multiple pumps. Move to grab the other 2-ton model (Torin I've had for YEARS) and it managed to do basically the same thing - barely any lift.
Zero leaks under both jacks so I'm stumped. I've never heard of jack fluid evaporating but hey, I'm not an expert.
So I'm in the market for jacks: both at the track and at the garage.
The track only has to lift half a car (the Miata or the M3) and the garage one will be for the Expedition.
I'm considering for the garage the seriously low-profile models (AC Hydraulics, Ranger, or Omega) since I don't have to haul them around in the trailer and with blocking it will reach all points under the cars/truck.
However, getting into the lightweight AL jacks for the track I'm getting conflicting data and was hoping for some clarification from those who might have used them. The models for the track I'm seeing are Brunnhoelzl, Zinko, & Pace Sports but those seem to be the "Corvette ZR-1" models of jacks.
Basically, I'm one who's willing to pay for good tools and find buying and re-buying the cheapies beyond a pain: especially when you're in a crunch mode and your dollar savings on a jack means you can't get your car off the jack stands when you need to.
Sooo, feedback and opinions welcome and requested!
Thanks!
Brandon
#2
Posted 04-19-2011 10:11 PM
i am the same as you as far as buying quality tools. i usually dont by stuff at HF, but i did get the 4,000lb AL racing jack on the recommendation of a friend.
the larger capacity jack at HF has the square pad, not the round one.
I am very happy with this jack; its light, and it has lifted my car every time i needed it to for 2 years now.
1999 SM #92 SoPac division
#3
Posted 04-19-2011 11:51 PM
#4
Posted 04-20-2011 04:38 AM
- KentCarter likes this
45 SM
#5
Posted 04-20-2011 07:31 AM
For the shop look into Norco, or if you want the best Milwaukee Hydraulics. The 2-ton just fits under the Miata. I got a better price calling Milwaukee than I found on the web. I take it to the track, but I would rather not. I'll probably look for an Aluminum one sometime....
So I'm in the market for jacks: both at the track and at the garage.
The track only has to lift half a car (the Miata or the M3) and the garage one will be for the Expedition...
I'm considering for the garage the seriously low-profile models (AC Hydraulics, Ranger, or Omega) since I don't have to haul them around in the trailer and with blocking it will reach all points under the cars/truck...
Basically, I'm one who's willing to pay for good tools and find buying and re-buying the cheapies beyond a pain: especially when you're in a crunch mode and your dollar savings on a jack means you can't get your car off the jack stands when you need to.
Sooo, feedback and opinions welcome and requested!
Thanks!
Brandon
Chris
Happiness is a dry martini and a good woman ... or a bad woman.
- George Burns
#6
Posted 04-20-2011 09:00 AM
Dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
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Over 200 race wins and counting.
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#7
Posted 04-20-2011 09:47 AM
For the money, you cannot beat HF--I have two for the shop. One is well over ten years old.
#8
Posted 04-20-2011 10:03 AM
Admitedly, I abuse a jack more than most of you. I tried several versions of the cheap aluminum jacks. None lasted more than a couple months. Again a couple months for me is a couple years for most of you. Last year I found a midprice aluminum jack. I am not willing to spend big bucks for a Brunnhoelzl. Been using this jack both at the shop and at the track since mid-summer. Still working fine. I am ordering anoither one this week to evaluate. If it works out I will be adding it to my website. Costs about $500. I'll let you know
Dave
Look forward to your "report". What's the weight of this jack you've been so far pleased with? That for me is the biggest thing as while we're out at the track the wife may need to lift/move around the jack herself so the lighter the better.
#9
Posted 04-20-2011 10:54 AM
ahm
#10
Posted 04-20-2011 10:56 AM
#11
Posted 04-20-2011 01:32 PM
#12
Posted 04-20-2011 01:37 PM
Though if one has a 300k rig, a pair of 50k cars, spending a few grand a week on tires an 800-1500 jack isn't that big of a deal. I can't roll like that, though. I'd easily go 500 for a quality, made in USA product that has replacement parts capability.
DING! DING! DING! DING!
We haff a winnah! To me the big thing is repairability. If I can buy replacement parts then I know I can take it apart and probably fix my $500 tool instead of junking the $75 tool. Besides, we can call it "being green", right? Not adding to the landfills and all that.
#13
Posted 04-20-2011 01:55 PM
#14
Posted 04-21-2011 07:50 AM
I've got one of those Sears aluminum racing jacks that came out 6-7 years ago. POS. Had two of them, one replaced under warranty. Online reviews are terrible. That one is definitely leaking, as evidenced by the hydraulic fluid on my floor. But a winter project to take it apart and see if the seals can be replaced, fixed.
#15
Posted 04-21-2011 08:57 AM
My problem is that my jacks aren't sufficiently "low profile". I've got a 1.6L that has to be put up on wooden boards before I can fit my standard type Sam's club jack. Any suggestions on one that will fit easily under the front to grab the front subframe and lift without the need for boards?
Have I got just the jack for you!
Omega 29023 jack
It weighs a bunch but with it being for the garage, this is the one I'm considering.
But then there's also this one:
Ranger RFJ3000LPF jack
A few pounds lighter but it's about 12" shorter overall (implying its "jack reach" is shorter). It might work for a Miata only but I think it will be too short to reach that jack point on our M3.
Believe me, you're not alone with your 1.6 being "too low" for the front sub-frame to be reached. None of my jacks would reach either. It's the same problem with reaching the front jack point on our M3 - too low of a vehicle and too far back to reach.
That ASEDeals website also has a number of AL jacks that are intriguing - the Zinko & Ranger models specifically.
C'mon Dave! Get that jack distribution agreement signed!
#16
Posted 04-21-2011 09:35 AM
That's one reason why I went with the Milwaukee jack, it's made & assembled in USA. Plus, you can get parts or service for it.DING! DING! DING! DING!
We haff a winnah! To me the big thing is repairability. If I can buy replacement parts then I know I can take it apart and probably fix my $500 tool instead of junking the $75 tool. Besides, we can call it "being green", right? Not adding to the landfills and all that.
As for jacking the car, I don't try to get to the front subframe jack point from the front. I jack the rear from the pumpkin, place the jack stands and then hit the front subframe from the side.
Chris
Happiness is a dry martini and a good woman ... or a bad woman.
- George Burns
#17
Posted 04-21-2011 02:34 PM
Who jacks from the subframe? Use the pinch welds, and place a short piece of reinforcing in place.That's one reason why I went with the Milwaukee jack, it's made & assembled in USA. Plus, you can get parts or service for it.
As for jacking the car, I don't try to get to the front subframe jack point from the front. I jack the rear from the pumpkin, place the jack stands and then hit the front subframe from the side.
- Alberto likes this
Glenn Murphey, Crew Chief
Owner Crew Chief Services The Pinnacle of Excellence, Contract Crew Services for the racing community.
Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good
#18
Posted 04-21-2011 03:00 PM
Depending upon what you're trying to do it may be quicker to lift the front or the rear and getting the lowest height & the longest reach is helpful.
#19
Posted 04-21-2011 04:45 PM
Maybe "subframe" wasn't the right term. Front crossmember? Yeah, I use the pinch welds if I'm just lifting a side, but if I want the whole car up in the air I use the pumpkin & front crossmember.Who jacks from the subframe? Use the pinch welds, and place a short piece of reinforcing in place.
Chris
Happiness is a dry martini and a good woman ... or a bad woman.
- George Burns
#20
Posted 04-21-2011 11:13 PM
Ron
RAmotorsports
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