Same here. Typically as I'm just about to shift. I've only had my new motor at RA, so hard to say if 2-3 is an issue as well.
Never have seen it, happens too fast imo. I think that is in part why we dont see on dyno
Going to try 5th as well
Same here. Typically as I'm just about to shift. I've only had my new motor at RA, so hard to say if 2-3 is an issue as well.
Never have seen it, happens too fast imo. I think that is in part why we dont see on dyno
Going to try 5th as well
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080
Same here. Typically as I'm just about to shift. I've only had my new motor at RA, so hard to say if 2-3 is an issue as well.
I had a 2-3 shutoff a bunch at Topeka a few weeks ago (in addition to 3-4). First time I've had that one. Solved it by just keeping the car in 3rd! So we've got that as a solution.
From the three cars I have had this issue with it has only ever happened in 3rd or 4th gear, and above 6100k RPM.
One of the cars was always around 61-6200 RPM, and another was always right before you were about to shift at the top of the RPMs.
Tyler Brown
Sneaky Moose Motorsports - Owner
2023 Majors Northern Conference Champion - SM
2023 June Sprints - 1st Place
2022 Majors Northern Conference Champion - SM
2020 Majors Northern Conference Champion - SM
2019 June Sprints - 1st Place
Design Engineer - Milwaukee Electric Tool
Facebook: https://www.facebook...oseMotorsports/
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Some times as you are making gear change, you go back to a dead pedal.
This is what I experienced at Pitt in Q2. The car pulled hard up to redline in 3rd, I shifted, then had a dead pedal. I blipped the throttle several times and tried the shifter and clutch to no avail. The engine came back on it's own almost exactly 4 seconds later. Here is a data trace of what I experienced:
NB2 Spec Miata engine cut out during 3-4 shift during qualifying 2 at the 2021 Pitt Race Hoosier Super Tour, 05/01/2021. by Jordan Smart, on Flickr
Unfortunately I was not logging any ECU data at the time. That will be fixed before the car sees the track again.
The issue has not re-appeared since swapping the main injector relay to a brand new OEM part. The car has seen 12 track sessions since.
Edited by JSmart, 06-09-2021 05:36 PM.
Jordan Smart
SM #76
This is what I experienced at Pitt in Q2. The car pulled hard up to redline in 3rd, I shifted, then had a dead pedal. I blipped the throttle several times and tried the shifter and clutch to no avail. The engine came back on it's own almost exactly 4 seconds later. Here is a data trace of what I experienced:
NB2 Spec Miata engine cut out during 3-4 shift during qualifying 2 at the 2021 Pitt Race Hoosier Super Tour, 05/01/2021. by Jordan Smart, on Flickr
Unfortunately I was not logging any ECU data at the time. That will be fixed before the car sees the track again.
The issue has not re-appeared since swapping the main relay to a brand new OEM part. The car has seen 12 track sessions since.
From all I have heard as well as experienced myself, the cars usually take somewhere between three and ten seconds to reset itself before the engine is firing again once they've shutoff while having their issue. Our champcar did this exhaustively, and we raced with it for multiple endurance races so I have experienced it many many manyyy times. I have also raced two of our other Spec Miatas while this was happening. You're running up the rpms, all the sudden you lose ignition, the engine is still spinning, gauge cluster still showing rpm and the electronics are all on, just a dead pedal. Then all the sudden it comes back after 3-10 seconds.
As far as swapping the main engine relays, my Dad's VVT car randomly eats the main engine relays, but the issue it has with those is the car starts misfiring (not shutting off) and then eventually dies and the engine wont restart. We swap out main engine relays, and its perfectly fine again. When his car had the VVT shutoff issue, changing the main engine relay didn't help it at all during that problem.
On two of the other cars that we have had that shutoff issues, changing the main engine relay to an OEM Mazda relay has not stopped the random shutoff issue, and the timing was already at 15 degrees or less. I have heard from others with the VVT shutoff issue too that changing main engine relays did not solve it either.
The one car was the VVT champcar, we eventually said screw it and put a megasquirt in it to stop the shutoff issue and it has run perfectly since.
The other car we are still having the issue with, we have changed the main engine relay, timing wheel, crank pulley, timing belt tension, crank sensor, and cam sensor, and I took some timing out of it, none of those solved the issue so far.
Tyler Brown
Sneaky Moose Motorsports - Owner
2023 Majors Northern Conference Champion - SM
2023 June Sprints - 1st Place
2022 Majors Northern Conference Champion - SM
2020 Majors Northern Conference Champion - SM
2019 June Sprints - 1st Place
Design Engineer - Milwaukee Electric Tool
Facebook: https://www.facebook...oseMotorsports/
Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube....le_polymer=true
I put NEW Mazda OEM relay in as well, never fixed this issue for me.
Jim
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080
Jordan, if it had been the main relay, would the data logger have lost power?
Injector relay. Green one under the hood.
From all I have heard as well as experienced myself, the cars usually take somewhere between three and ten seconds to reset itself before the engine is firing again once they've shutoff while having their issue. Our champcar did this exhaustively, and we raced with it for multiple endurance races so I have experienced it many many manyyy times. I have also raced two of our other Spec Miatas while this was happening. You're running up the rpms, all the sudden you lose ignition, the engine is still spinning, gauge cluster still showing rpm and the electronics are all on, just a dead pedal. Then all the sudden it comes back after 3-10 seconds.
As far as swapping the main engine relays, my Dad's VVT car randomly eats the main engine relays, but the issue it has with those is the car starts misfiring (not shutting off) and then eventually dies and the engine wont restart. We swap out main engine relays, and its perfectly fine again. When his car had the VVT shutoff issue, changing the main engine relay didn't help it at all during that problem.
On two of the other cars that we have had that shutoff issues, changing the main engine relay to an OEM Mazda relay has not stopped the random shutoff issue, and the timing was already at 15 degrees or less. I have heard from others with the VVT shutoff issue too that changing main engine relays did not solve it either.
The one car was the VVT champcar, we eventually said screw it and put a megasquirt in it to stop the shutoff issue and it has run perfectly since.
The other car we are still having the issue with, we have changed the main engine relay, timing wheel, crank pulley, timing belt tension, crank sensor, and cam sensor, and I took some timing out of it, none of those solved the issue so far.
Time for a Spec ECU!
For those who have had the issue, is it all years 01- 05 is there any data on that front? I have an 01 and had an engine harness issue years back but otherwise all good for 7 years (I am Knocking on wood as I type)
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
I haven't finished reading this thread and need to drag my ass out of bed to go run a qual race. But quick comment: I'd be much more convinced of any argument for or against if someone would offer putting these things on an engine dyno. Anything other than that is a waste of time effort and money. Chassis (and hub) dynos are not the tools to be using for this or almost anything engine related to our cars. Way to easy to goof the results and some of the things people want to look for are too fine. If we had 800hp mustangs I would feel a bit different. But we have 125hp (130 hp for some). We are looking for 1% differences and a chassis dyno is not the tool to do that imo.
I haven't finished reading this thread and need to drag my ass out of bed to go run a qual race. But quick comment: I'd be much more convinced of any argument for or against if someone would offer putting these things on an engine dyno. Anything other than that is a waste of time effort and money. Chassis (and hub) dynos are not the tools to be using for this or almost anything engine related to our cars. Way to easy to goof the results and some of the things people want to look for are too fine. If we had 800hp mustangs I would feel a bit different. But we have 125hp (130 hp for some). We are looking for 1% differences and a chassis dyno is not the tool to do that imo.
James, 1% is VERY easy to see to those who use chasis dynos regularly and accurately. FWIW, i offered privately to SCCA tech team and would to for NASA as well, but didnt offer.
One full day of dyno time with one of our VVT cars, with an employee for 8 hours, a cut open valve cover with access window and a cam installed they could beat and bang the reluctor wheel all day until they had all the info they needed. They have not taken me up on it, but glad to do it. No charge at all
Furthermore, offered $5,000.00 to any one who is willing to come here and do the same and show ANYTHING outside the noise of the dyno. They could do it on engine dyno as well if they chose. That stands as well. I would need to be there to over see the testing.
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080
Maybe you're right Steve. I dont understand how it would be finer than using an engine dyno when you have additional variables in line. But the important statement from me is, "I dont understand". And i have no reason to doubt you. What I do know is that it sometimes appears as if the claims do not match logic or the numbers sometimes generated by chassis dynos.
As far as the tester. I trust the testers. I trust that they are knowledgeable. I trust in human nature. I trust racers to be racers, that includes me. I trust that well intentioned benevolent knowledgeable people often screw up and are generally the source of greater deviation than the instruments they use. I trust that people use data but fail in the analysis and dont achieve knowledge, fail to achieve wisdom and truth.
So maybe I change my position: dynos are great but too often used as a blunt instrument and can be used to mask much.
FWIW,
I have made several changes to the car and heading to the track today and we will see if we made any headway. i am cautiously optimistic, but I have been that way a few times before. I certainly did not go to the Sprints anticipating the problem was not rectified. I will report back
Jim
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080
FWIW,
I have made several changes to the car and heading to the track today and we will see if we made any headway. i am cautiously optimistic, but I have been that way a few times before. I certainly did not go to the Sprints anticipating the problem was not rectified. I will report back
Jim
Several changes might cloud witch one fixes it. But I do know you want your car to run so you're doing everything you can.
Several changes might cloud witch one fixes it. But I do know you want your car to run so you're doing everything you can.
Ralph
You are older than me and get confused easier I have very detailed notes and fully intend on a-b-b-a testing if I get anywhere
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080
Ralph
You are older than me and get confused easier
Golly, this ^ must mean Ralph is over 50 years of age. It's ok guys, getting more mature is positive.
Ralph
You are older than me and get confused easier I have very detailed notes and fully intend on a-b-b-a testing if I get anywhere
Anyone that is a fan of Abba is showing their age too.
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