
Clutch Replacement
#1
Posted 04-26-2011 01:58 PM

However, I'm curious if there is anything else I should know (outside of the FSM/enthusiast's instructions) before diving in? Secrets, tips, tricks...that may make the job less !@#$@%$^#%^&#$%^ agravating....
I'm replacing the clutch line with braided SS while I'm down there...but, wasn't planning on anything else. I rerouted the battery wire to the cockpit when I did the kill switch (per the DaveW method)...so, I don't have to fiddle with that on the PPF.
PS: I'm already planning on pulling the engine at the end of the season...so I was going to save those other "do this while you are there" tasks for then. Unless, of course, someone tells me it would be "stupid" not to for one thing or another.
-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info
video: vimeo.com/tomhampton
Support: X-Factor Racing
I didn't lose, I just got outspent!



#2
Posted 04-26-2011 03:11 PM

Dave
Dave Wheeler
Advanced Autosports, the nations most complete Spec Miata shop
Author, Spec Miata Constructors Guide, version 1 and 2.0
Building Championship winning cars since 1995
4 time Central Division Spec Miata Champion car builder 2012-2013-2014-2017
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2014 SCCA Runoffs winner, T4 (Bender)
2014 Central Division Champion, ITS (Wheeler)
2013 Thunderhill 25 hour winning crew chief
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Over 200 race wins and counting.
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#3
Posted 04-26-2011 03:32 PM

-Cy
Supported by LTD Racing
2011 + 2013 NER STU Champion
#4
Posted 04-26-2011 03:50 PM

- Jeff Longo likes this



#5
Posted 04-26-2011 09:10 PM

The reason that rubber nipple is there is because this motor was turbo charged and used in the mx-3. it was a coolant return for the turbo, so I hear. Anyways, replace it!
#6
Posted 04-27-2011 06:19 AM

+1 on new slave cylinder.
-Denny
P.S. Step 1, (always) disconnect battery. Step 2, drain transmission.
P.S.S. I used an impact to disassemble - much easier on the constitution.
- Andy L likes this

#7
Posted 04-27-2011 06:32 AM

Also, sometimes I cannot get at the top passenger's side bolt for love or money even with said flex sockets. Then a ratcheting box end wrench is perfect for the job.
Also consider removing the coil pack to keep it from getting damaged if the engine rocks back and forth as described above.
Hero To The Momentum Challenged
WDCR SSM #30
#8
Posted 04-27-2011 08:47 AM




#9
Posted 04-27-2011 09:31 AM

I bought the ACT kit which includes a throw-out and pilot. Are you saying don't use the ACT ones...or just be sure to put in new?
Keith- Is this one of those "friend" stories? You know....so Doc, I have this "friend", and he's got this "problem", um "down there"...what should I tell "him"...kind of stories?

Scottie-
What is this nipple you speak of? Never read any mention of this. Do you have a mazda P/N? Or can you point to it on a diagram? On the engine block inside the bell-housing? is it shown in this diagram below? Dang it...my mazda order is halfway here already....

-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info
video: vimeo.com/tomhampton
Support: X-Factor Racing
I didn't lose, I just got outspent!



#10
Posted 04-27-2011 09:59 AM

Denny- Yep, that's exactly the one I bought...should arrive tomorrow. I can MAKE the time for the flywheel reface, but I am hoping to not have to. First day on the track has been booked for May 28. May is going to be very busy, and I'd rather get the car stuff out of the way...so I can focus on mother's day, graduations, etc... I want to get the car together and drive it on the road as much as I can in May to shake out any "bugs". I don't want to be scrambling to "get it finished" the 2 weeks before the track.
I bought the ACT kit which includes a throw-out and pilot. Are you saying don't use the ACT ones...or just be sure to put in new?
Keith- Is this one of those "friend" stories? You know....so Doc, I have this "friend", and he's got this "problem", um "down there"...what should I tell "him"...kind of stories?![]()
Scottie-
What is this nipple you speak of? Never read any mention of this. Do you have a mazda P/N? Or can you point to it on a diagram? On the engine block inside the bell-housing? is it shown in this diagram below? Dang it...my mazda order is halfway here already....
I can try to dig the part number up for you after work. It is on the back of the block, outside of the bell housing. It is a royal PIA to get to from above. on a 1.6, it is below the coil pack. It is not in the diagram you showed me.
#11
Posted 04-27-2011 10:05 AM

I can try to dig the part number up for you after work. It is on the back of the block, outside of the bell housing. It is a royal PIA to get to from above. on a 1.6, it is below the coil pack. It is not in the diagram you showed me.
Okay, thanks.
Is this a mandatory thing, because it will be destroyed during disassemby?...or highly recommended because its a PITA from above, if it goes bad? I AM doing the whole engine at the end of the season...
-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info
video: vimeo.com/tomhampton
Support: X-Factor Racing
I didn't lose, I just got outspent!



#12
Posted 04-27-2011 10:08 AM

T-O and pilot with kit is fine.
Last time I replaced a clutch I found a local machine shop that faced the flywheel same day turnaround - just doing my part to support the local economy.
If you do R&R the flywheel don't forget to RTV the bolts when re-assembling.

#13
Posted 04-27-2011 10:33 AM

I can see what you are saying...not sure how you'd get to that with the engine in the car (and transmission attached). I think I may have to risk it...and plan to make something if necessary. I don't want to buy a $4 part and pay the $20 shipping. I did that recently on the stupid lawnmower....twice. First I let a wrist-pin spring clip escape into the wild...then I sheered the flywheel key because the taper didn't seat properly. 85 cents each...$12 shipping...one week apart. UPS makes more money off me than the vendors do.
Denny- Yep, I remember reading that tidbit by someone on the old site. I remember someone learned the hard way that Lock-tite is the wrong thing to use.
-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info
video: vimeo.com/tomhampton
Support: X-Factor Racing
I didn't lose, I just got outspent!



#14
Posted 04-27-2011 10:43 AM

Rubber plug is on the back of the head, not the block.
T-O and pilot with kit is fine.
Last time I replaced a clutch I found a local machine shop that faced the flywheel same day turnaround - just doing my part to support the local economy.
If you do R&R the flywheel don't forget to RTV the bolts when re-assembling.
There is a rubber plug on the starter side of the block - reference 10-328 in your parts illustration. And there is one on the back of the head - 13-104T. I was thinking there was another one on the block, but I will have to look at an engine to refresh my memory. I replaced these, along with every piece of rubber, a few years ago when I had the engine out. For a little over $100 I got all new hoses and plugs just so I wouldn't wave to worry about them failing at the wrong time. I would suggest leaving this stuff alone until you remove engine.
I was just installing a new ACT clutch/PP and decided the flywheel probably should be resurfaced. I was prepared for maybe a week turnaround but was pleasently suprised when the shop did it in about 3 hours, and for $40. Just make sure they maintain the existing step between clutch interface surface and PP mount surface. Both must be machined. This requires the PP alignment pins to be pulled. The machinist took off about 0.010" from both surfaces, and I made the decision that the flywheel did not need to be rebalanced with only about a 0.1 lbm being taken off in a uniform pattern.
Unlike Denny, I chose to replace the flywheel bolts with new ($2.52 each); just helping to support the Japanese economy, and they need it right now.
Jerry Cabe
2014 Cincy Region Race Chair
"Just driving SM until the F1 is ready - Well the F-1 car is ready, but I'm not."


#15
Posted 04-27-2011 11:03 AM

Tom, In a pinch I visit my local Mazda dealer for widgets that I forget to order from MazdaSpeed. Once and a while they even give me a discount if I mentioned it's for a Mazda racer.

#16
Posted 04-27-2011 01:21 PM

#17
Posted 04-27-2011 01:24 PM

http://blog.richramb...om/main/?p=1979
Be sure to keep it level when removing (putting a support on the front of the engine during removal helps) or the input shaft will be grabby and not want to let go. Once its off, check all the seals; as you'll see bunch of mine were leaking. The engine rear main seal wasn't but is now after SCCA WDCR comp school and MARRS 1. D'oh. If yours looks at all questionable, also a good time to do it unless you are taking the trans off again when the motor comes out.
Rich Hoyer
SSM #47 WDCR SCCA
SM #45 NASA Mid Atlantic Region
#18
Posted 04-27-2011 07:41 PM

Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region




#19
Posted 04-27-2011 07:42 PM

Dennis


#20
Posted 04-27-2011 07:53 PM

Steven Holloway
Artist formerly known as Chief Whipping Boy for Lone Star Region


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