Front Wheel Bearings
#21
Posted 05-09-2011 11:18 PM
Did my hubs last night! +1 on those intructions. Real easy and went smooth. went ahead and purchased 2 pairs of seals from Dave. I should have these puppies back on the car by Tuesday.
Rob20rx7, be sure to keep those ball bearings in the correct order!
1976 4th Grade Bowling Series-Most Improved
#22
Posted 05-10-2011 06:52 AM
My take on rear bearings - they are a replacement item - not a repack item.
#23
Posted 05-10-2011 07:53 AM
Rick
2009, 2010 & 2011 SCCA Great Lakes Div. Reg. SM Champ
2006, 2009, 2010 & 2011 Cincy SCCA Reg. Driver of the year
Powered by: Stewart Engines
Set up by: RAFT Motorsports
SM: The safest race car in the world. It can just
barely kill you.
#24
Posted 05-10-2011 08:39 AM
#25
Posted 05-10-2011 07:42 PM
I just got the the front hub seals in from Dave. Look just like OEM. this is perfect!
I was able to re use my seals the looked pretty good, I assume you can re use them a time or two?
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#26
Posted 05-10-2011 09:01 PM
I was able to re use my seals the looked pretty good, I assume you can re use them a time or two?
Sure provided you don't mangle them too badly removing them. People reuse them many times over.
#27
Posted 05-22-2011 08:59 PM
-Juan
CheckerLap.com -- Your race results!
#28
Posted 05-23-2011 07:29 AM
Frank, I went to Lowe's and bought a cheap large flat tip screw driver; then used a fine tooth hand file to remove the corners and make any edge smooth. This worked well for tapping out the seal without as much fear of cutting the seal.I was able to re use my seals the looked pretty good, I assume you can re use them a time or two?
Chris
Happiness is a dry martini and a good woman ... or a bad woman.
- George Burns
#29
Posted 07-07-2011 01:45 PM
There is an easier way I picked up working as a bicycle mechanic many moons ago in a shop with a solvent tank and compressed air after repacking bearings the hard way...
Leave the bearings in the retainer. Use solvent, rubber gloves, and a bristle brush to get the heavy stuff out. Use safety glasses and compressed air to blow the other crap out. Lather, rinse, repeat. When you're pretty sure the only thing you're blowing out is clean solvent, hit the next hub. When you're done with the last hub, the solvent will have evaporated in the first hub...add grease. Once you've greased the first hub, the solvent will have evaporated in the 2nd hub.
You'll never break a bearing retainer that way. It's quicker, and less frustrating. I could probably repack a set in the time you'd curse trying to get the bearings out of one hub.
I've cooked a couple of hubs on my street/track/autox car, hence my reading here today, and I had the same reaction when I saw the how-to... why not leave the bearings in place. I guess that makes sense as I've also logged hours as an all-knowing bike shop employee.
If starting fresh, am I better off to get a NAPA (SKF brand) hub and repack it before install, or should I start with an OE Mazda part?
Naresh (schmoo) Debidin
Severely Driver-Limited 2004 MSM with FM Big Enchilada in Velocity Red
www.uncommonpear.com
www.mco.org
#30
Posted 07-07-2011 10:18 PM
#31
Posted 07-08-2011 12:42 PM
I'm preparing to place that order, but I'm stuck at determing how to read the 'Start' and 'End' dates for their parts. For example, is 02/01/2005, MM/DD/YYYY or DD/MM/YYYY? I've even checked other pages to see if I could something with a number greater than 12 appearing, but no luck.
Naresh (schmoo) Debidin
Severely Driver-Limited 2004 MSM with FM Big Enchilada in Velocity Red
www.uncommonpear.com
www.mco.org
#32
Posted 07-08-2011 01:20 PM
45 SM
#33
Posted 07-08-2011 01:21 PM
Naresh (schmoo) Debidin
Severely Driver-Limited 2004 MSM with FM Big Enchilada in Velocity Red
www.uncommonpear.com
www.mco.org
#34
Posted 01-05-2012 06:25 PM
Appreciate any help that is offered.
#35
Posted 01-05-2012 08:01 PM
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#36
Posted 01-05-2012 09:40 PM
Thank you!The plastic cage for the rear of the hub Inside facing the car is larger (wider) that the one in the front of the bearing facing away from car. ball bearings are the same size.
#37
Posted 04-13-2017 06:02 PM
There is an easier way I picked up working as a bicycle mechanic many moons ago in a shop with a solvent tank and compressed air after repacking bearings the hard way...
Leave the bearings in the retainer. Use solvent, rubber gloves, and a bristle brush to get the heavy stuff out. Use safety glasses and compressed air to blow the other crap out. Lather, rinse, repeat. When you're pretty sure the only thing you're blowing out is clean solvent, hit the next hub. When you're done with the last hub, the solvent will have evaporated in the first hub...add grease. Once you've greased the first hub, the solvent will have evaporated in the 2nd hub.
You'll never break a bearing retainer that way. It's quicker, and less frustrating. I could probably repack a set in the time you'd curse trying to get the bearings out of one hub.
Sorry to bring up a really old topic, but I'm repacking my first set of hubs and I don't want to mess with taking the bearings out of the retainers so I am doing it Keith's way above. Is there any reason I need to take the rear seal out in this scenario? I don't see any reason to, but I just wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything by not doing so. Seems to me like the compressed air/solvent/brush got all the grease out.
#38
Posted 04-13-2017 08:41 PM
I just did this same thing, more or less, on all four of our front hubs before Gateway. Picking at the bearings with a screwdriver had me worried about breaking a cage or scratching the bearings or race, so I sprayed it out. I used brake clean at first but the rubber didn't like it sitting on there for long. Maybe a less harsh solvent would yield the same results without damage to the seals.
Either way, repacking was easy and all four lasted throughout the weekend. From here I'll do the every "3 or 4 weekends or every rain race" schedule.
This goes without saying but, these were done on hubs without the aggressive machining on the flange that has proven to fail prematurely.
#39
Posted 12-26-2017 03:16 PM
I noticed there was a company "Machineintegrations" that recently advertised in the back of Sportscar magazine.
Their ad touted a bearing grease packing device for Miata front hubs.
For about $95-$100 they claim you can repack and thus replace the grease in a Miata front hub without any disassembly.
Has anybody tried or used this device and does it work?
thanks
Tom B.
#40
Posted 12-26-2017 03:31 PM
I noticed there was a company "Machineintegrations" that recently advertised in the back of Sportscar magazine.
Their ad touted a bearing grease packing device for Miata front hubs.
For about $95-$100 they claim you can repack and thus replace the grease in a Miata front hub without any disassembly.
Has anybody tried or used this device and does it work?
thanks
Tom B.
Looks like a nice piece for an enduro car to add grease during the race? I think I would still pull mine apart, clean and regrease for sprint races though
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
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