Jump to content

Photo

Trouble Starting When Hot

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1
davearm

davearm

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 44 posts
  • Location:raleigh,nc
  • Region:SEDIV
  • Car Year:1992
  • Car Number:66
I had noticed last year, that after a race, if I needed to start the car after sitting in impound or waiting to get weighed, the starter cranked very slowly, or not at all. If I lifted the hood and let it cool off for 30-45 minutes, it would start. Thought the starter was going bad so I changed it. However, it continued to do the same thing this weekend (first warm race day). It starts fine when cold, or even after a prolonged idle to warm up the motor, only really seems to happen right after a track session. Is this heat sink into the starter, as I have friends that have similar problems (after repeated dyno pulls, etc). All my battery, starter connections are tight, but I do need to recheck my kill switch connections (re-mounted the switch closer to the door window on the cage). Any other ideas, or suggestions on shielding the starter.
I am afraid that if I stall on track, I will not be able to restart the car.

Thanks,

Dave

#2
GregA

GregA

  • SMembers
  • PipPipPip
  • 11 posts
  • Region:WDC

I had noticed last year, that after a race, if I needed to start the car after sitting in impound or waiting to get weighed, the starter cranked very slowly, or not at all. If I lifted the hood and let it cool off for 30-45 minutes, it would start. Thought the starter was going bad so I changed it. However, it continued to do the same thing this weekend (first warm race day). It starts fine when cold, or even after a prolonged idle to warm up the motor, only really seems to happen right after a track session. Is this heat sink into the starter, as I have friends that have similar problems (after repeated dyno pulls, etc). All my battery, starter connections are tight, but I do need to recheck my kill switch connections (re-mounted the switch closer to the door window on the cage). Any other ideas, or suggestions on shielding the starter.
I am afraid that if I stall on track, I will not be able to restart the car.

Thanks,

Dave


Make sure the replacement starter also has new starter solenoid. If you're not sure might want to try a new solenoid. This sounds like a classic starter solenoid issue.
Bona fide - A bonafide Spec Miata driver

#3
Nash Lawson

Nash Lawson

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 46 posts
  • Location:Charlotte, NC
  • Region:Nasa SE, SCCA SE
  • Car Year:1999
  • Car Number:23
Mine does the same thing. I was told that it may be the switch on the clutch pedal going bad.I pulled the switch and bypassed it.
Nash Lawson

Ti-Speed Engineering Driver

2012 Carolina Cup Pro Series SM Champion
2011 NASA SE SM Regional Champion
2010 NASA SE SM Regional Champion

#4
davearm

davearm

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 44 posts
  • Location:raleigh,nc
  • Region:SEDIV
  • Car Year:1992
  • Car Number:66

Mine does the same thing. I was told that it may be the switch on the clutch pedal going bad.I pulled the switch and bypassed it.

Already bypassed the clutch switch. Will test the battery when I get the car back home too, but seems OK when cold, only problem is hot.
I assumed that a new (rebuilt) starter would have a rebiult solenoid, but I should know better than assume.

Thanks,

Dave

#5
dstevens

dstevens

    Veteran Member

  • SMembers
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,404 posts
  • Location:Vegas
  • Region:LVR
The short track race shops have isolating blankets or shields that may help. Don't know that it's legal in SM. I would think not. Another way the circle track guys deal with it is to remote a solenoid but that for sure doesn't look SM/SSM legal.

Example of solid type heat shield
http://www.speedwaym...arter,1900.html

Example of blanket type heat shield
http://www.speedwaym...riers,1150.html

#6
iambhooper

iambhooper

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 46 posts
  • Location:i'm not certain
  • Region:over here
  • Car Year:1991
  • Car Number:666
At last fall's Goblin's Go, we fought a "wiring" issue that, in the end, left me stranded at Hog Pen at the end of the 1st lap of the ECR. I found a loose pinout in the ECU connector and fixed it. The car ran great in March.

On Friday's test day, I sent my codriver out for the 1st two session's. I climbed in to go out for the 3rd, and the car wouldn't crank! Same symptom's from last fall. We got it running, and I went out, only to have the car quit on the back straight. We worked on it, checking my solder joint's (while missing the 4th session)... nothing, but the car did crank again. Got into it for number 5 and damn, if the car didn't die again! Expensive day, ehh?!

Anyway, we taked with Glen Long and he suggested either the Air Flow Meeter or the Coil's, and loaned us the parts to do so. We found the problem to be Coil related. Swapped these out, and ran "fine" all weekend.

The point is... check your coil's.

hoop
hoop
a bunch of old '90's cars
and an '06 RSX Type S

#7
wreckerboy

wreckerboy

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 155 posts
  • Location:Mrs Orcutt's driveway
  • Region:NJ
  • Car Year:1990
  • Car Number:53
Given that this is a hot cranking problem, and not a hot starting problem, the solenoid is the logical culprit. However, given that you've had two different starters with the same problem, the odds are going way down. I'd start looking at the connections to the starter and to the grounding strap next.
Rob Myles | "I didn't lose, I got out-painted!"
Hero To The Momentum Challenged
WDCR SSM #30




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users