6 replies to this topic

[Keith Novak]

Any helpfull tips for swapping the front subframe? I have a cherry picker with a load leveler and I thought I might stick my trans jack under the pan to keep it from shifting or stick blocks under the oil pan and use my trans jack to lower the subframe with all the other bits attached.

Since all the other parts will be swapped over, I'm betting there are shortcuts to disassembling everything and putting it all back together piece by piece. I am installing new adjustment bolts while I'm at it and I've thought about rounding the corners on the slots that the cams fit into with a file so they don't catch and snag the cams themselves when adjusting.

Tips and tricks to make it easier would be appreciated, as would seasoned advice that I'll cause just myself more trouble than anything taking shortcuts so just break it all down.

[William Bonsell]

Just getting ready for a winter project, right Keith? Your car ran well at Pacific.....I wouldn't futz with it! As my son tells me frequently,..Dad, just drive it. You know what...you can get faster just driving it more often!

[Alberto]

I did it in my garage. I was concerned since I've never replaced a subframe before but it was pretty straightforward.

Start with the steering rack. Unbolt the steering rack and use a bungee cord, wire, string or something to hold the steering rack up and out of the way.

Loosen the A arms from the subframe.

Shouldn't need to remove or loosen the shocks from the chassis or lower control arms.

Remove engine mount nuts on subframe.

I used a jack to lift the engine and trans off the subframe about an inch. Didn't need to use the engine hoist.

Loosen the subframe nuts and bolts and drop it. You'll need a deep 19mm socket and a breaker bar. Reinstall the replacement in its place and torque to spec.

Drop the motor back in place and torque. You may need to wiggle the motor a bit to get back in place.

Reattaching the steering rack bolts were a challenge for some reason. Everything else was surprisingly straightforward.

[davew]

Basicly what Alberto said is the method of choice.

One hint is to use a vice grip to clamp the subframe to a floor jack. Makes it much easier to manuever in to place.

Dave

[Keith Novak]

Thanks for the tips! Pretty straight forward and it does seem I was going to make things a bit more difficult than needed.

Bill: My suspension had some issues. Very easily measurable ones, not just perceived. It will be nice to put them behind me and set up the car with a straight suspension for a change.

[Keith Novak]

That was pretty easy. I did disconnect the swaybar endlinks, and the swaybar bracket bolts were catching on the long upper control bar bolt heads to I backed those out a little too. When it came time to line up the engine mounts the engine had shifted to one side a bit so I just popped off the LHS motor mount to save myself some cursing.

Much easier than breaking down the whole suspension though. I didn't think you could leave that much still attached to the car.

Thanks again!

[Blake Thompson]

That was pretty easy. I did disconnect the swaybar endlinks, and the swaybar bracket bolts were catching on the long upper control bar bolt heads to I backed those out a little too. When it came time to line up the engine mounts the engine had shifted to one side a bit so I just popped off the LHS motor mount to save myself some cursing.

Much easier than breaking down the whole suspension though. I didn't think you could leave that much still attached to the car.

Thanks again!

I didn't see it mentioned, but for future folks I like to use one of those engine support things - I bought one cheap and it's way over engineered for the little Miata engine.

like this: http://www.hydraulic...ebar_189467.jpg

then that crap is out of your way and less likely to fall. and you can use a lift if you're so inclined