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Rear Caliper Adjuster Disabling

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#1
DamonB06

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I read about this a while back on the old site and have finally decided to tackle the project for myself. Tonight I took the calipers apart to check things out. My question is, is the adjuster that is inside the piston the only thing that needs to be removed? and will you still be able adjust the caliper manually after removing the auto adjuster?

Here is a link with some good pictures of the internals.

http://www.miata.net...rake/index.html

Which I got from this thread

http://mazdaracers.c...ch=1

Thanks

#2
Bench Racer

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and will you still be able adjust the caliper manually after removing the auto adjuster?


No more adjustment. Will function like the front caliper. That is the name of the game because the adjuster extends the pad to the rotor creating drag. Throw out all the bits as long as you don't create a brake fluid leak.
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#3
DamonB06

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^^^ Awesome, thank you very much.

So were you able to remove the screw portion from the bore in the caliper? It looks like it would be difficult to do so without creating a leak.

#4
Bench Racer

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So were you able to remove the screw portion from the bore in the caliper? It looks like it would be difficult to do so without creating a leak.


If you refering to the hex head bolt with flat sealing washer shown in the upper left hand corner of picture "J", that MUST remain to keep brake fluid from leaking. Same sealing bolt/flat washer shown in picture "B" installed.
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#5
Johnny D

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FYI, Drago has ones already done in the classifieds under brakes.
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#6
DamonB06

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If you refering to the hex head bolt with flat sealing washer shown in the upper left hand corner of picture "J", that MUST remain to keep brake fluid from leaking. Same sealing bolt/flat washer shown in picture "B" installed.


I was talking about the screw piece that threads into the auto adjuster. I ended up just leaving it in though.


FYI, Drago has ones already done in the classifieds under brakes.
J~


Thanks for the heads up. Those are actually a great deal. I would have gone with them if I hadn't recently replaced my calipers.

#7
DamonB06

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For anyone wanting to do this themselves, I thought I would take some pictures of how I did it. I did this without any special tools and using only brute force.

So the first step is to get the piston out. If you turn the adjuster all the way out, then you can simply jiggle the piston the rest of the way out by hand.

Posted Image

Here is the piston in the vice.

Posted Image

I used the impact to thread a bolt into the funky threaded hole in the adjuster. I just cross thread it in. This whole process made me really nervous since, at this point, if it didn't work I would be buying a new caliper.

Posted Image

then after about an hour of struggling trying to get at the clip with a screw driver, I decided to use brute force. I hooked a cat claw under the bolt like so.

Posted Image

and beat the hell out of it, in an upward direction, with a hammer. I was relieved when it worked. Here is the auto adjuster mechanism outside of the piston.

Posted Image

Then just put it back together. I hope this helps someone in the future.

#8
Adax

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Here's the easy way to get it out, very, very easy.

Set the piston on your bench with the adjuster guts facing up.

Drop the little toggle pin (rice shaped thing that is part of the adjuster) down the threaded hole in the piston.

Screw the adjuster (jack?) screw down into the piston until it hits the toggle pin you just dropped in.

Keep screwing it in (you may need pliers to grip the end) and once it bottoms it will push the adjuster stuff out.


I've done 4 this way, two I was able to do with no tools at all, two required simple pliers.

Alan

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#9
Adax

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Here's the easy way to get it out, very, very easy.

Set the piston on your bench with the adjuster guts facing up.

Drop the little toggle pin (rice shaped thing that is part of the adjuster) down the threaded hole in the piston.

Screw the adjuster (jack?) screw down into the piston until it hits the toggle pin you just dropped in.

Keep screwing it in (you may need pliers to grip the end) and once it bottoms it will push the adjuster stuff out.


I've done 4 this way, two I was able to do with no tools at all, two required simple pliers.

Alan


I forgot, you will need to remove the jack screw to do this. That does require some finesse. (just use a pick to get the snap ring out)

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#10
Richard Pressman

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Great information. Answers all my questions. Thanks!!
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#11
DamonB06

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Adax, you are a genius. I left the jack screw in place though. Are you putting the jack screw back in after this? or going without?

#12
Adax

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I actually sawed the entire e-brake apparatus off the back of the caliper and welded it up.

[attachment=1453:caliper_edited-1.jpg]

Thanks for recognizing my genius, very few do.

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#13
dstevens

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I actually sawed the entire e-brake apparatus off the back of the caliper and welded it up.

Thanks for recognizing my genius, very few do.


It's probably material for a weenie protest but it's a damn good idea.

#14
Adax

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How is it not legal? From the GCR: "Parking brake mechanisms, and actuating components may be removed."

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#15
Bench Racer

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How is it not legal? From the GCR: "Parking brake mechanisms, and actuating components may be removed."


From the GCR Glossary defination:

Removal - To take off a componet.
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#16
Zauskycop

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I don't think that the removal of the item is the question....it's the "welded it up" part that may be questionable...
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#17
Adax

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I don't think that the removal of the item is the question....it's the "welded it up" part that may be questionable...



Yeah I know what you mean. I'm just considering it fixing a brake fluid leak that occurred after I removed the parking brake components. :)

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#18
Bench Racer

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Yeah I know what you mean. I'm just considering it fixing a brake fluid leak that occurred after I removed the parking brake components. :)


Not trying to be harsh, but that ^ thought process is what got production car rules to where they are today. There is also a Spec Miata rule about fixing to the Mazda FWS standards. Have you ever heard of the slippery slope of rules? There is a reason why there are somewhere between 2 & 3,000 Spec Miatas today with Spec Miata being the class with the MOST event entries of all the twenty some classes. :o
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#19
Sphinx

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How much time should this little project take? I've never taken a caliper apart before. I've got a pair of new ones in the garage ready to go on.

#20
Glenn

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As a follow up reminder, This year we have had several DNFs due to slide pin failure. Im now convinced that the pin fails after backing out and the driver hitting the gators. Solution red locktight the pin in place and let it cure BEFORE racing. Since doing this the pins have stopped loostening. Before I was tightening after evert session! And yes they were new calipers.

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Soon to be back in the club racing scene for good ;)

 

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