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Rear Caliper Adjuster Disabling

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#41
Armando Ramirez

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#42
Ron Alan

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Doh, Thanks Ron for THINKING, I was blissfully ignorant. Now where did I put those???


Someone quick...come to our rescue!!! Yes or no on putting back the little metal piece of rice???

Ron

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#43
Glenn

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Dave -

If you use blue locker on the 10mm pin, how the heck do you keep from stripping the heads off of them? I've gone through a bunch and keep spares, and I don't lock them.

Had a big pin loosen up on me once. Caught it in post race tear down. Wore the pad at an angle down to the backing plate. Lock them ever since.


I use a MAC six point combo wrench, 10mm one end 8mm the other. Plenty of leverage to take off the bolt or remove a sticky bleeder! NOT cheep but worth the $$$

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#44
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Someone quick...come to our rescue!!! Yes or no on putting back the little metal piece of rice???


No one wants to support your effort Ron. I'll give you my thought on the the little chunk of "rice". I put mine back in. If you loosen/remove the hex bolt/brass flat washer and the hex adjuster & the hex adjuster is wet with brake fluid you have a leaking o-ring.
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#45
TJKearney

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So, is the moral of this story to only remove the grenade looking (how fitting?!) automatic adjuster, and put the rest back in?

#46
Bench Racer

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So, is the moral of this story to only remove the grenade looking (how fitting?!) automatic adjuster, and put the rest back in?


Different strokes for different folks. I found it quite easy to remove the snap-ring, pull the adjuster bolt out, cut the threads off the adjuster bolt (threw cut off threads away) & re-assemble remains of adjuster bolt & o-ring. Left the "grenade" in place. The snap-ring comes out quite easly using an ice pick bent at approx 45* & a small bladed normal screw driver.
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#47
ChrisA

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I'm been debating on whether I want to do this or not. It would be nice not needing to use the allen to pull back the piston when changing pads. Also, eliminate any drag induced by the self-adjuster would be a good thing. But, it is also handy having the parking brake to hold the car in place when loading on the trailer. I have to tilt my trailer by putting the trucks rear wheels on ramps, so the car doesn't bottom out. Any thoughts?

Chris

 

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#48
Bench Racer

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But, it is also handy having the parking brake to hold the car in place when loading on the trailer. I have to tilt my trailer by putting the trucks rear wheels on ramps, so the car doesn't bottom out. Any thoughts?


I do similar with an open trailer using a 12v power winch.
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#49
SaulSpeedwell

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Different strokes for different folks. I found it quite easy to remove the snap-ring, pull the adjuster bolt out, cut the threads off the adjuster bolt (threw cut off threads away) & re-assemble remains of adjuster bolt & o-ring. Left the "grenade" in place. The snap-ring comes out quite easly using an ice pick bent at approx 45* & a small bladed normal screw driver.


Cheater Kettle,

Hmm, my Inner Boemler says your method results in being noncompliant to the GCR, Dave.

Inner Boemler: "Where does it say you can MODIFY the "adjuster bolt"?"

Love,

Cheater Pot

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#50
ChrisA

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Went ahead an rebuilt the rear calipers and disabled the parking brake over the weekend. I used the "rice-method" for removing the grenade, which is easy & fast. Getting the C-clip out is a little bothersome, getting it back in is another level of frustration. Odd how I fought with the first one for 15-mins and would think the next should be quicker, but took me 30-mins. I would have happily paid $50 for a Snap-On retaining ring puller that would fit in there. Actually, looked a couple of days ago, but didn't see any that looked like they would work. Only additional thing I did was add some thread sealant to the hex adjuster cap. Now I'm working on bleeding the brakes, not sure I've got all the air out of there and there is a lot of area for air to trap, but didn't see anymore bubbles. Still feels a wee bit soft, but I've never found the miata brakes to feel stone hard. Could just be poor foot memory, as it's been since the fall that I've driven the thing.
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Chris

 

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#51
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Cheater Kettle,

Hmm, my Inner Boemler says your method results in being noncompliant to the GCR, Dave.

Love,

Cheater Pot


Cheater Pot, I've been waiting for the real Boemler's comments.

Have Fun :wub:

Cheater Kettle
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#52
SaulSpeedwell

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Cheater Pot, I've been waiting for the real Boemler's comments.

Have Fun :wub:

Cheater Kettle


Confirmation bias can make you happy, but it can never make you right! :)

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#53
SaulSpeedwell

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Went ahead an rebuilt the rear calipers and disabled the parking brake over the weekend. I used the "rice-method" for removing the grenade, which is easy & fast. Getting the C-clip out is a little bothersome, getting it back in is another level of frustration. Odd how I fought with the first one for 15-mins and would think the next should be quicker, but took me 30-mins. I would have happily paid $50 for a Snap-On retaining ring puller that would fit in there. Actually, looked a couple of days ago, but didn't see any that looked like they would work. Only additional thing I did was add some thread sealant to the hex adjuster cap. Now I'm working on bleeding the brakes, not sure I've got all the air out of there and there is a lot of area for air to trap, but didn't see anymore bubbles. Still feels a wee bit soft, but I've never found the miata brakes to feel stone hard. Could just be poor foot memory, as it's been since the fall that I've driven the thing.


Depending on how much you enjoy DIY versus how much you value your time and the opportunity cost of turning that time into something else, it might have been "cheaper" (subjective term disguised as quantitative term ... or is it the other way around?) to get rebuilt calipers with the modification already performed - especially since you can get the new caliper bolted on before losing enough fluid to draw air into the system. Using a bolt and old copper washers to seal off the banjo fitting during caliper changes eliminates the latter.

The high part of the Miata system is the line traversing the firewall - and stubborn bubbles of air like to hang out there. If you bleed slow, you can bleed until Thunderdome Come and the fluid will slip right "under" the bubble there - you will have no bubbles coming out of the calipers, but the pedal will be like wet bread. You need to bleed "fast" (i.e. not Mityvac nor Powerbleeder nor Speedbleeders nor gravity bleeding) to pump this bubble "down" to the right front caliper. The two-man method works, usually - moreso if you crack the fittings fast and move the fluid along fast and keep the rhythm going with your helper.

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#54
Bench Racer

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Confirmation bias can make you happy, but it can never make you right! :)


Some of us aren't right from the get-go.

IIRC the rule specifies one "may" remove the E brake stuff. May is a permissive (granting freedom) word by GCR definition. Would you agree that we may remove all or part of the E brake parts? :scratchchin:

Happy Easter

Cheater Kettle
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#55
SaulSpeedwell

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Some of us aren't right from the get-go.

IIRC the rule specifies one "may" remove the E brake stuff. May is a permissive (granting freedom) word by GCR definition. Would you agree that we may remove all or part of the E brake parts? :scratchchin:

Happy Easter

Cheater Kettle


We both seem to know what the GCR , but you have done more than take permitted action of removing a component. It appears you forgot that earlier in the thread you pointed out that the GCR is clear about what "removal" means ... but now, a couple pages later, now you are endorsing "cutting" the "adjuster bolt". Were you simlpy stirring the pot then? Or now? ;)

The difference between "removal" (explicitly allowed, in this case) and "modification" (de facto prohibited, per GCR glossary definition of "removal") has long been established.

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#56
SaulSpeedwell

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How is it not legal? From the GCR: "Parking brake mechanisms, and actuating components may be removed."

From the GCR Glossary defination:

Removal - To take off a componet.


Oops, Dave? :cop:

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#57
Bench Racer

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Were you simlpy stirring the pot then? Or now? ;)


Hmmm??? :huh:


The difference between "removal" (explicitly allowed, in this case)


Saul, when you remove e brake components, do you remove all the e brake components or do you remove part of the e brake components? :scratchchin:
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#58
Alberto

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I finally got around to trying this and got the calipers disassembled.  I need to order the rebuild kits and re-assemble and have some questions:

 

1. Is the only part that does not get re-used the 'grenade' thing that sits inside the brake piston?

FigureM.jpg

 

2. Seems like you could get away with not re-installing the adjuster.  Should it be re-installed?  If so, why?  Will it cause a leak if not re-installed?

FigureF.jpg

 

3. The rice pellet thing also seems like it is not necessary since it's purpose is to trigger the adjuster when you pull the e-brake handle.  Correct?

FigureJ.jpg

 

4. Any recommendations on snap ring pliers to aid in reassembling this mess?  I got lucky removing the c-clip with an electrical tester and a pick but not working for reassembly.

 

Thanks.


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#59
Bench Racer

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I finally got around to trying this and got the calipers disassembled.  I need to order the rebuild kits and re-assemble and have some questions:

 

1. Is the only part that does not get re-used the 'grenade' thing that sits inside the brake piston?

2. Seems like you could get away with not re-installing the adjuster.  Should it be re-installed?  If so, why?  Will it cause a leak if not re-installed?

3. The rice pellet thing also seems like it is not necessary since it's purpose is to trigger the adjuster when you pull the e-brake handle.  Correct?

 

Thanks.

Different strokes for different folks. :bigsquaregrin:

 

Your point 2. The adjuster has an o-ring which keeps from leaking out the e-brake shaft. E-brake shaft seals alone will not stop leaking because there is relatively high pressure generated during braking.

Your point 1. and 3. I (illegally per Saul) cut the adjusting screw off the adjuster, installed new o-ring in adjuster and reassembled.

 


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#60
callumhay

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I found these pliers for the circlip on Amazon. search "Heavy Duty 7 inch Extra long internal straight retaining ring clip circlip removal plier"  it's 19.99 and well worth the money...will take you all of 1 minute to put the ring back in ( just remember to open the ring up a little to get it to lock in its groove.) I think on the reviews for this someone mentions they are great for the clip in the rear calipers. They are. 






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