Wow! That door is gutted! I guess I can make the decision to run a NACA duct vent window or not after I get the seat. I was planning to run the vent window for some airflow but getting out of a car on fire probably out weighs the need to keep cooler!

 

I haven't put any thought to moving the mirrors yet..

 

 

Definitely kill the triangle window.  I'm as small as they come...and its tight getting out around the seat halo with a helmet, race suit, and HANS device on...that's just when you are calm in the driveway at home.  You want every bit of room to GTFU when shits on fire and the door is jammed.

 

With a full suit and a helmet outside airflow doesn't make that much difference.  There's plenty of airflow from the open windows, anway.  Put the NACA in the passenger window and a hose pointing at you, if you want some air.  Plan on a cool suit to stay cool, though.

 

I also deleted the "spike" you see in the picture of Alberto's window....the last remnant of "track" for the triangle window glass.  I made a Lexan window to cover the space when trailered, or in the paddock overnight to keep most rain water out.    

you do not want to be thinking about I need to do X in this turn, focus on the feel and carrying as much corner speed as possible.  Just because it was great yesterday, does not alway indicate it will work today.   Practice trailing, look at your Min corner speeds, but most importantly learn to feel what the car is telling you that particular session   

 

That's Gold right there.  

 

Not that I'm anywhere near the drive that Craig is....

What’s not obvious is that the AI claims aren’t just marketing BS. The core of what makes this truly different is the camera (which also holds the accelerometers) which must be carefully aligned during setup. That camera supplies a view of the track so the AI can look for the edges of the track surface (think self-driving car tech). As you do your initial laps it uses that input to draw the actual track shape as well as plotting your path on it. Other systems draw your trajectory and may be able to superimpose that on a map or aerial of the track so you can tweak their alignment, but you need to be really careful trusting any representation of your line relative to the pavement. In theory, this learns/draws the track surface and your lateral position on it using the camera, and the GPS provides your progress and speed along that path. With that information the AI knows whether you apex early or late, or miss by 5ft one lap compared to another, etc.

But, it doesn’t know what’s possible until you do it and won’t assume T3 has the same grip as T2, or anything else for that matter. In theory, if you do every lap exactly the same way every time, it will never recommend a change. But nobody does that and those with the most potential to improve do it less. As you do laps it keeps track of what line, what brake points, rate and duration work best then presents that analysis to you in simple live voice prompts during a session and in up to three “Opportunities” for improvement in post-session review. It also provides some consistency stats and their version of theoretical best lap which they call True Optimal lap. The name is easily misconstrued but what makes it different is that the AI works out which fastest segments really can be accomplished in succession and blends them to come up with that best-case lap time and stitches together a video with the segments they have used. Other systems simply add fastest sectors which may not even be achievable as a full lap.

That’s actually a very short and incomplete summary. Watch the videos, read the FB group posts but keep in mind most the people are wrong about a lot so pay attention to the one Garmin guy who sometimes chimes in.

 

That's very interesting.  Been trying to do that the "hard way" via my Racepak system.   It definitely takes a lot of work to deal with the "issues" of achievable segments. 

 

Its been interesting to see how Garmin has manage to cope with the major disruption in what was the core of its commercial business.  They really have pivoted into completely new product lines, and technologies in a way that very few companies manage to do when disruptions happen.

Good plan.  I'm sure the shelf mount will help a bunch with seat placement. Miatacage has the most clearance of any of the kits that I'm aware of.  My cage hoop goes to the floor---I also have a different cage.   

 

When I did mine I temporarily clamped my seat into position, and then tacked the hoop, cage sides, and door bars into place...making sure they cleared the seat and halo.  It took a few tries to get things goldilocks and all.  

 

My build is in my sig below.  

I have an earlier version of that seat in my car.  I've been perfectly happy with it.  Its protected me in a couple of solid impacts over the years with no issues.

 

The horizontal flat plat around the halo can interfere with the main hoop in installations for taller drivers....like you.  I'm 5' 11", 143 lbs.  So, I'm a skinny little shit.  

 

ETA: actually, looking more closely at the pix...it looks like they significantly shrunk the flat plate by folding it and reinforcing it.  So, I take it back, it probably fits much better without much risk of interfering with the hoop.  Nevertheless, this is always a primary consideration when fitting a seat to a new car...and bigger drivers have more challenges to work around.

 

I always recommend fitting the seat and the cage at the same time to be sure you can put the seat where you want it (centered and aligned to the steering axis).  The last guy who didn't listen...ended up with a seat that he had to move off-line and off-axis to get the seat in because he "couldn't wait" to start the cage.  

 

 

Dave, 

 

What's your opinion with this seat: https://www.ultrashi...iata-halo-seat/

 

I looked at the Kirkey 71 and like it, saw this brand on Advanced Autosports. Thoughts?

I had the same issue a couple years ago. Turned out to be poor contacts in the fuel pump connector. Used a dental tool to squeeze the socket contacts tighter.

By putting it on the passenger floor.

Dudes in New vettes don't like it either.

That’s amazing Tom, good to hear you’ve made productive use of the lockdown!

Thanks, Steve. I don't know that's its amazing... Maybe it is. I'm just stubborn. I'm good at mindless suffering.

Honestly the whole ordeal is a bit of a mind-f#ck. Over the weekend I've been talking to a friend who went through a similar ordeal recently, and relaying my experience and thoughts. I was telling him that Every weird sensation makes me wonder if something is happening, again. Maybe it's a bit of ptsd, I dunno. But, it takes a while to learn to trust your body. Not sure how long cuz, I'm not quite there. I just keep pushing through, though. What else can I do?

Most of my chest is numb-Ish. But, it also has some discomfort and irritation. Apparently, those who have significant acute post-surgical pain, are also likely to have long-term pain. It's a weird combination. Also, overusing and straining the inner chest wall doesn't get "sore" like muscles do, it's more like to feeling of a heart attack. So...yeah, when I overdo yard work and crap... That's my reward.

But, at this point I've had most tests that you can have which have all comfimed that all is good. I've had a 24/7 realtime ecg monitor on since June 1st. That ends on Friday. No problems found.

I will say that if ANYONE wants to talk about their (or a family member's) ordeal I'm available via PM, and will gladly give you my cell. My experience has been that there is precious little info out there about what it's like as a patient. I've read most of what's out there...its not much. Which is kinda weird for the leading cause of death in the US.

 

 

Do you plan to travel with the RV? Coming to the track once a year may not justify a new tow rig

 

LOL.  I may resemble that remark.  

For the Long pedal there is an adjustment for the pushrod / master cylinder clearance.  You can close up the clearance to gain some pedal height.  You must be careful with this adjustment, because it is important that the master cylinder completely retracts when you let off the brake.  So, you want high and "almost" tight.  If its fully tight, then the brake pressure will not completely release after each stroke.  Each subsequent stroke will bulid a little more pressure.  After about a pace lap and two race laps the brakes will be permanently ON and you will think you've completely lost power.  

 

Ask me how I know....

I've been towing my NA6 on an 18" Open trailer behind our 31' Class C since 2015.  

 

Dunno about 'insights', though.  Like what? 

Hey there!  Thanks for asking.  Sorry....haven't been around here much lately.  I can't race at the moment for various reasons.  I've been iRacing a fair bit, though.  I've gotten totally carried away spending my racing budget on a sim-rig.  

 

Recovery is going well.