37 replies to this topic

[Sphinx]

I've never experienced this condition at the tracks I've raced, probably from not going fast enough (Summit, WG, Road Atl, Barber). So, I'm not really looking forward to my first experience with it.

However, I will tell you that when I crewed for a T2 team, the driver would routinely set his pads, esp. as the pad wore down. With new pads, it was not an issue.

So, does pad thickness matter with SM's?

[Jim Drago]

I've never experienced this condition at the tracks I've raced, probably from not going fast enough (Summit, WG, Road Atl, Barber). So, I'm not really looking forward to my first experience with it.

However, I will tell you that when I crewed for a T2 team, the driver would routinely set his pads, esp. as the pad wore down. With new pads, it was not an issue.

So, does pad thickness matter with SM's?

Probably need to rebuild your calipers or at least grease the slides. You should have had a few Oh %%^ moments going into T1 at Road Atlanta after coming out of 10b.

[pat slattery]

If Bennett is lurking, do you have a fix for this problem, other than pumping the brakes?

[Jim Drago]

If Bennett is lurking, do you have a fix for this problem, other than pumping the brakes?

The fix is to have sticky nasty dragging calipers that will hurt lap time or have the calipers work properly and set your pads. Unfortunately those are your two choices. You remember to hit your brakes at marker x, just add pump your brakes before marker x..

[Sphinx]

Probably need to rebuild your calipers or at least grease the slides. You should have had a few Oh %%^ moments going into T1 at Road Atlanta after coming out of 10b.

Is there a particular slide grease that you guys like? I've always used the permatex green crap.

[davew]

Any brake lube such as "Silglide" is available at most auto parts stores

Dave

[Glenn]

Is there a particular slide grease that you guys like? I've always used the permatex green crap.

Its the frequency of re-lubing more than the lube its self. FYI they can be over lubed as well, if the pin hole vent in the rubber sleeve is plugged the slide/grease will create a vacuum and getting the pin out becomes a lot of FUN!

[Neil O]

Replace the rubber boots for the sliders once a season (they get hard and and sticky over time)
Stick with one type of lube, I like the green stuff.

[Glenn]

Replace the rubber boots for the sliders once a season (they get hard and and sticky over time)
Stick with one type of lube, I like the green stuff.

What do you know, LOL

[Muda]

I don't want a fix. If the caliper pistons don't retract after relatively severe bumps they're not working right. I left foot tap after curb contact. Cy taps just before brake zone. T1-3 at Thunderbolt are notorious. Don't and you're more than likely to have a very deep pedal @T4

[Cy Peake]

^^Behind me watching for brake lights, just where I want you

[Muda]

I learned that 2 seasons ago. Ya still do'in it?

[svvs]

I don't want a fix. If the caliper pistons don't retract after relatively severe bumps they're not working right. I left foot tap after curb contact. Cy taps just before brake zone. T1-3 at Thunderbolt are notorious. Don't and you're more than likely to have a very deep pedal @T4

Bad place to have a long pedal.

Also going into the boot at WGI....you just murdered all those curbs in the bus stop and maybe on the exit of the carousel.....and then you'd like some brakes but they're not there. The armco is though!

[Cy Peake]

WGI is the track that I try to tap EVERYWHERE b/c going long in just about every corner will end my season.

[SaulSpeedwell]

If Bennett is lurking, do you have a fix for this problem, other than pumping the brakes?

Answered years ago, but it probably got lost amongst the parity squabbles, cheating accusations, and the 99% of posts that have a 48 hour maximum shelf life of usefulness

I find "setting the brakes" to be a distraction and if you don't do it perfectly every time you are definitely cannibalizing your own laptimes - especially with grabby pad compounds.

My solution was to run new pads (and run pad shims on thinner pads) when it really counted. The caliper pistons are bottomed in the bores when the pads are new - thus rendering pad knockback physically impossible.

You can implement shims a number of ways .....

http://www.trellebor...art_shims_d.jpg

[Muda]

I might worry about them door stopping against the pad unless they were bonded.

[SaulSpeedwell]

I might worry about them door stopping against the pad unless they were bonded.

With the lap timer, there isn't any "might worrying" ....

[Blake Thompson]

If you do not have pad kick back, your calipers need to be gone through or replaced, regardless of whether you have the E brake adjusters removed or not. If your calipers are free, like they should be, you will need to set the brakes. I don't think a warning light is worth the time or effort. Repetition for a few sessions and muscle memory will take over. It is hard for most who are used to setting their brakes not to set them at this point. Ever drive behind the Pombos? It looks like Christmas lights going off before each corner.

This is great advice for newbs with an unknown car. I ran on rubbish calipers for a long time before I popped for rebuilds. Not only was I seconds faster a lap, but I got to learn like a first year student all about kickback. ESPECIALLY at Road America.