Here's information from Jeff over at Hoosier:
- Most people that I have spoken with regarding curing say that they have not noticed a difference in performance or longevity with cured vs. non-cured tires. Why is that?
Because the SM6 has a reduced tread depth and high traction tread compound, heat cycling the tire will extend the life (tire wear) and performance of the tire. I would believe with a lightweight / low horsepower vehicle there may be no difference in time between the first session of a new tire and the second session of a heat cycled tires, but not bedding in or heat cycling a tire will shorten the life of the tire on the back end.
My note: I’ve seen a fairly substantial difference in longevity between properly heat cycled tires (the properly aspect is important) versus running sticker tires. I did a crude experiment with running sticker tires and comparing it to ones heat cycled.
http://www.goaheadta...saving-process/- Those same people state that there is a big (1-2 seconds) drop off in performance after the first few heat cycles. What are the realities in performance drop off over heat cycles?
Honestly, I think there is something else going on or the drivers who see this drop off may have not heat cycled the SM6. A heat cycled SM6 will offer consistency of lap times over a period of track sessions compared to running on a new set of SM6’s. As we started the 2012 season in Florida, we had several SM weekend winners win on multiple track session tires.
- What changes to driving style are we expected to make going from RA1 to SM6?
I feel the SM6 could accept or handle aggressive driving styles like sliding, high steering input, heavy braking, however you will find a less aggressive driving input will results in faster lap times. Running higher air pressures, rotating the tires around the car and eventually flipping the tires on the rim(non-directional) will result in faster lap times and extended tire life.
My note: When I transitioned from Toyos to Hoosiers, my biggest challenge was getting used to the extra grip and trusting it would be there. I didn’t feel that a different driving style was necessary.
- What are the breakaway characteristics like? Most slicks are rather abrupt.
The SM6 internal design is much different than our current GT slick tire which should allow a bigger window of forgiveness when the tire is overdriven. The SM6 tire gives the driver several indications before actually losing total grip.
My note: I think one aspect some might need to get accustomed to is not relying on the tire noise for feedback. One thing is that the Hoosiers are a bit more prone to flat spotting compared to the Toyos were.
- How does ambient and track temps affect pressures?
I feel a good HOT pressure for the SM6 is 38 – 42 psi. This HOT pressure should be utilized in any level of ambient air temperature. The key is the COLD / STARTING pressure to get to the HOT air pressure setting. If you have cold air temperatures, start your pressure higher. If you have hot air temperatures, start your pressure a little lower, however the goal is the 38 – 42 psi HOT.
- What are the desired cross carcass hot temps?
Most SM drivers should see tire temperatures, using a needle pyrometer, between 140 – 180 degrees F. Once again, the tread temperature will fluctuate based on air temperature. The more important information is to have your tread temperature difference from shoulder to shoulder show only 20 degrees difference. If a driver sees this temperature difference higher, then camber needs to be adjusted.
http://www.hoosierti...m/specmiata.htm- From Hoosier's web site, what does the "Spring Rate Information" diagram mean with regards to "Vertical Spring Rate vs. Load" at different (pressures)? Changed to pressures.
A spring rate of a tire will change with different air pressure. The higher the air pressure the higher the spring rate.
- Does 0 toe refer to front AND rear?
Yes, there is no need to have any toe setting front to rear. Most race cars do have a little bit in the front if care to – maybe 1/8†out.