43 replies to this topic

[Bench Racer]

A picture that is appropriate for this thread, third post.   
http://prodracing.co...php?f=7&t=14557

[AW33COM]

if the grease is thick and white, LEAVE IT.  This is a high-quality, quite pricey, OEM "lifetime" wheel bearing grease that you can't buy in small quantities without a hookup.

 

Do you happen to know the "white grease" name? 

 

Btw, Timken no longer produces in US, and often they use SKF bearings, and SKF bearing parts.  Very often the only thing that's Timken is the box, or the housed unit (hub).

 

Also, in order to press out the rears you need a 20ton press.

[Keith Andrews]

Also, in order to press out the rears you need a 20ton press.

 

 

This tool makes the job easy but it is very expensive.

 

[Bench Racer]

This tool makes the job easy but it is very expensive.

 

http://www.autobodyt...CFc5DMgodWnsAgA

 

 

Using this ^ and making about 3 more pieces car specific in a lath (or have them made) keeps the cost much more reasonable.

[AW33COM]

^ Good shit, and I do know of some state of the art SKF tools for this, but there is one small problem.  How do you put it back in without a press? heheh. 

 

Also, note on the video above he is working with a front hub, rear hub on a Miata is a bit different.  Not that easy.  I have done this once with a big hammer, but that can damage the hub.  Press is a must if you ask me. 

[Bench Racer]

 How do you put it back in without a press? heheh. 

First, I have never taken a Miata rear knuckle apart. I own a 1990 and with that said the rear knuckle looks like a similar process to whats shown on the video. Put it back in without a press as they do starting at approx the 3:20 mark.

 

Wheeler, Collins, Drago???

[Keith Andrews]

First, I have never taken a Miata rear knuckle apart. I own a 1990 and with that said the rear knuckle looks like a similar process to whats shown on the video. Put it back in without a press as they do starting at approx the 3:20 mark.

 

Wheeler, Collins, Drago???

Yup

[AW33COM]

On the video it looks super easy, in reality my air gun could not do it.  Even Dave in his book says the rear bearings are not serviceable, because he knows it's not an easy thing to change.  It's very easy to damage the part without a press.  Even using a 20 ton press it felt like I had to use all of it. 

 

Btw, the tool above is not expensive at all comparing to some other tools I have seen, as long as it's good quality material.  I've broken many tools like this removing bearings.   Removing the race from the hub is the most difficult part as very often the race sits so close to the hub there is no way to position your tool there. 

 

Anybody has this tool and used it on the rear of a Miata? 

[davew]

Knowing OTC, this tool is well made. But not needed for a Miata. All it does is replace hydralic force with a forcing screw. The same principles and procedures apply. And you better have lots of air pressure/volume and a good impact to make it work.

 

Dave

[Johnny D]

Just a FYI, Drago has Front Hubs, Rear Knuckles and Calipers all done in the Classifieds. ^^^^

J~

[Keith Andrews]

On the video it looks super easy, in reality my air gun could not do it.  Even Dave in his book says the rear bearings are not serviceable, because he knows it's not an easy thing to change.  It's very easy to damage the part without a press.  Even using a 20 ton press it felt like I had to use all of it. 

 

Btw, the tool above is not expensive at all comparing to some other tools I have seen, as long as it's good quality material.  I've broken many tools like this removing bearings.   Removing the race from the hub is the most difficult part as very often the race sits so close to the hub there is no way to position your tool there. 

 

Anybody has this tool and used it on the rear of a Miata? 

 

Yes, I have this tool.  I use hand tools rather than air tools.  I'm sure I could get a bearing started going in crooked, I like to feel it as the bearing slides in and seats.  It works great on the rear bearings.  Like Dave said you get plenty of force with the screw.  I feel like I have more control using this tool than I do when I've tried a press.  I don't own my own press.  

[MPR22]

They don't show the part were the mechanic forgets to remove the snap ring and has a "Doh" Homer Simpson moment. 

[AW33COM]

Keith, since you:

use hand tools rather than air tools.

 

I found this video for you:
 

The tool in the video is a Posi-Lock.  Does not require air or hydraulic.  It locks and does not move when you crank it.  You can take it to the race track with you.  It's amazing quality, problem is the price tag. 

[Vince Russell]

That Posi-Lock looks like a nice tool. Is the 5 ton to much?

[Keith Andrews]

They don't show the part were the mechanic forgets to remove the snap ring and has a "Doh" Homer Simpson moment. 

 

I've done the get it all back together with the hub installed and find the snap ring on the bench. "Doh"

[AW33COM]

That Posi-Lock looks like a nice tool. Is the 5 ton to much?

Sorry, I don't know the answer, so I'm not going to bull shit you.  I know what you mean though, they make many sizes, so it's hard to nail it unless you buy the whole set. 

 

Btw, here is a link to the SKF one: http://img.directind...813-2613829.jpg
That tool is no joke, but it's like $500 per size. 

[Vince Russell]

I got the 5T off of ebay. 100ish bucks.

[Killian]

To get the old race out of the upright, I just used an air hammer to drift it out.  To press in the new unit, I just put the upright in the oven (less torch, more oven) and the bearings in the freezer (next to the ground beef).

 

It kind of worked out like this: 

 

[Vince Russell]

The Posi-Lock still needs a head start to grab the race.. On the plus side, the new Timkin bearings come apart easy for re-greasing. Five washers between the races and pop!

[SaulSpeedwell]

Hmph.  I've never had a problem pressing bearings out, even on salt-destroyed daily drivers.  If you don't push "square", things can be difficult.  Getting axles out is another story.