38 replies to this topic

[jswitzer360]

How's everyone doing I know this question has been asked before I'm just having a hard time finding it.

I'm new to this whole miata scene and would love to be involved in sm racing.. I know what it cost and the amount of prep that it takes

My question is what year miata is best for southeast scca racing BC I've seen things on other sites saying that the older model miatas(90-97) are a dying class. I guess I would just like to know what class has the most competition

And also if anyone has any good donors.. Whether they be spec or bone stock for sale I'd like to hear about them. Thanks guys!

[FTodaro]

 The 99/00 years are vary competitive and well developed.  That would be a good choice. Donors can be had for 3 to 5,000.00.  look in the classified on this site from time to time and craigslist in your area.

[LarryKing]

Buy an early 90s 1.6 car. The parity issue has been solved - all model years are equal.

[CruzanTom]

You are not too far from Tom Fowler at OPM Autosports in Cummin, GA. They have every model in their garage and can help you get started. 770-889-7630.

[jswitzer360]

OK cool thanks guys so it looks to me that the scca plans on keeping all model years pretty competitive.. And thanks tom I was already looking at opm and I plan on talking with them soon.. I hope to see some of you guys out at road Atlanta I'll be going down there walking around the paddock getting ideas.. Thanks again

[Bench Racer]

 I hope to see some of you guys out at road Atlanta I'll be going down there walking around the paddock getting ideas.. Thanks again

Your above statement is spot on. Understand the basics before buying or turning wrenches. It may be a good idea for you to on line read the SCCA General Competition Rules for the class and other rules for racing/obtaining a license. NASA rules are also on line.

Most of all, welcome and Have Fun.

[jswitzer360]

Actually I have the gcr downloaded on my tablet and I have the NASA rules... Both seem pretty similar and I've read through them a few times... The only thing really killing me is I don't know what year I wanna start on... I would like a 99 or 00 but I just don't know lol kinda up in the air about that one

[Alberto]

Do you plan on racing Nationals or just regionally in your area?

[jswitzer360]

Well to start off I'd do regionals and if I find that I can stand toe to toe with the nationals guys than I'd go that route... But I know I'm far from being ready for that so for at least a few seasons or more I'll be doing regionals... I'm not trying to rush anything I just wanna make sure I do it right

[William Bonsell]

The National car appears to be the 99-00 whether you buy existing (less expensive) or start from scratch which will cost more for sure. But the 99-00 seems to be easier to drive at the limits and more easily maintained. That being said, I love the agility of the 1.6 and you can buy a ready to race solid mid pack car for under $10,000 in most areas. It really comes down, IMO, to what your goals are and how much are you willing to spend to get started. The great thing about SM is that regardless of where you are on the grid, you are always going to have cars to battle whether that battle is for the podium or 25th!  The Southeast certainly is a hot bed of talented drivers, mostly all driving the NB1.

 

SCCA Runoffs will be at Laguna and will be interested in seeing how the West Coast 1.6's do. The 2013 NASA National Champion (Matt Schultz) was in a 1.6 Still have to give a little love to the 1.6! But if I was starting new, with no concern for cost, it would be a 99-00 for me.

[jswitzer360]

Yeah I think that's what I'm leaning to.. I like the styling a lil better but not so much the Lil bit of weight gain... And a tad bit more of HP doesn't hurt... And I plan on starting from scratch just BC I enjoy building... And if something goes wrong I'm to blame other than someone else...going to be all over craigslist for awhile now haha and if anyone hears of anyone looking to sell LET ME KNOW

And what are the cost difference s between the two? I'd imagine not much but what do I know I'm new lol.. I have a little bit of money but don't wanna be blowing up my wallet lol

[MPR22]

Yeah I think that's what I'm leaning to.. I like the styling a lil better but not so much the Lil bit of weight gain... And a tad bit more of HP doesn't hurt... And I plan on starting from scratch just BC I enjoy building... And if something goes wrong I'm to blame other than someone else...going to be all over craigslist for awhile now haha and if anyone hears of anyone looking to sell LET ME KNOW

And what are the cost difference s between the two? I'd imagine not much but what do I know I'm new lol.. I have a little bit of money but don't wanna be blowing up my wallet lol

Be sure you buy a model with the Torsen diff, they made models with both open and Torsen diffs and you don't want to find out after you buy the donor that you now have to buy a Torsen. 

[jswitzer360]

Any tall tell signs I should look for or just research the differences? Since I'm new I don't know what exactly to look for

[john mueller]

I strongly suggest purchasing an already built car and sort it to your liking and driving style.  As far as a year to get, NASA & SCCA work to keep the rules as close to the same as possible and still serve the needs of their 'customers'...  That said, IMO parity is not an issue right now, the cars are really really close - so much so that blatant cheaters can be spotted rather easily.

 

I suggest choosing a year by what your budget will allow (the below is my opinion void of my role with NASA):

• NA-1.6 : Cheapest to buy/build but most to maintain.  Development has pretty much reached it's limit.
• NA-1.8 : Cheap to buy/build, not too many competing.  I'm tole maintenance is higher than a NB but lower than 1.6.
• NB:  More costly to build/buy than NA's but maintenance costs appear to be much lower.
• NC:  Most expensive to build (not many out there so you'd prob have to build one).  Lots of upside development potential.

[jswitzer360]

Thanks john that's some good info to know.. I guess its gonna come down to the cleanest unmolested miata I can find

[Bench Racer]

Any tall tell signs I should look for or just research the differences? Since I'm new I don't know what exactly to look for

Here is a starting point with many telling signs. http://www.miata.net/garage/diffguide/

 

And below are some torque/horseposer numbers out of Jim Drago's East Street shop. When you look at the graph torque, even tho not a lot of racing takes place below 5,000 rpm the torque from the 99 and 02 is drastic compared to the 1.6. Drastic to me is, who wins the drag race below 5,000 rpm. Miss a gear shift, slow for an on track issue or in the real world someone brake checks you.

File 012 is the 02

 

File 024 is the 99

 

File 011 is the 1.6

 

[William Bonsell]

If looking for a 99-00 donor, look for a base mode. No a/c. No power windows. No cruise control. And preferably one with a hardtop, but hard to think many base models are out there with hard tops. I paid 5,000 for my base 99 and another 1,000 for a hardtop. And if no hardtop figure 700-1000 for a HT depending upon condition. If I am reading between the lines, cost is a factor. You will spend significantly more to build one than buying an existing race car.

[Alberto]

 

I strongly suggest purchasing an already built car and sort it to your liking and driving style.  As far as a year to get, NASA & SCCA work to keep the rules as close to the same as possible and still serve the needs of their 'customers'...  That said, IMO parity is not an issue right now, the cars are really really close - so much so that blatant cheaters can be spotted rather easily.

 

I suggest choosing a year by what your budget will allow (the below is my opinion void of my role with NASA):

• NA-1.6 : Cheapest to buy/build but most to maintain.  Development has pretty much reached it's limit.
• NA-1.8 : Cheap to buy/build, not too many competing.  I'm tole maintenance is higher than a NB but lower than 1.6.
• NB:  More costly to build/buy than NA's but maintenance costs appear to be much lower.
• NC:  Most expensive to build (not many out there so you'd prob have to build one).  Lots of upside development potential.

 

 

What do you mean by maintenance here?  I don't think my maintenance schedule on my 1.6 is any different than the guys I know with NA 1.8 or NB...

[Mike Collins]

I strongly suggest purchasing an already built car and sort it to your liking and driving style.  As far as a year to get, NASA & SCCA work to keep the rules as close to the same as possible and still serve the needs of their 'customers'...  That said, IMO parity is not an issue right now, the cars are really really close - so much so that blatant cheaters can be spotted rather easily.
 
I suggest choosing a year by what your budget will allow (the below is my opinion void of my role with NASA):

• NA-1.6 : Cheapest to buy/build but most to maintain.  Development has pretty much reached it's limit.
• NA-1.8 : Cheap to buy/build, not too many competing.  I'm tole maintenance is higher than a NB but lower than 1.6.
• NB:  More costly to build/buy than NA's but maintenance costs appear to be much lower.
• NC:  Most expensive to build (not many out there so you'd prob have to build one).  Lots of upside development potential.

Sometimes I question your thought process??? Maintantence is all the same....I can build a NC for less than an NB any day of the week....how many NC's have you built???? NB "pro motor" $6900. NC sealed motor $3,750 and no core required....

[john mueller]

Sometimes I question your thought process??? Maintantence is all the same....I can build a NC for less than an NB any day of the week....how many NC's have you built???? NB "pro motor" $6900. NC sealed motor $3,750 and no core required....

 

You'd know better than I.  I stated it was my opinion based on what I deduced from my experiences.  I stand corrected.  I guess you're right, I've not heard of any shops charging $40,000 for a NA or NC.