what people "think" they can skimp on
#21
Posted 11-18-2015 07:46 PM
#22
Posted 11-18-2015 07:51 PM
Drago pointed out another good one to me today. Don't skimp on the base car. We have both seen cars that were not worthy candidates to start with. Its the base of what you are investing all your money on. Make sure its a worthy candidate. Rusted out POS is NOT a worthy candidate.
- dstevens and Keith Novak like this
V2 Motorsports
#23
Posted 11-18-2015 08:07 PM
I have mixed emotions on Petty bars. Yes they do add rigidity and strength. But it as well does make egress out the passenger side of the car much more difficult. It also makes the car a PINA to work on. Added weight is also another concern. Over all, balancing all the pros and cons I lean more to without by a slim margin.
- Danny Steyn likes this
V2 Motorsports
#24
Posted 11-18-2015 08:51 PM
HT brackets attached to the cage weren't legal until recently. 2014 ? A welcome change for sure...
A more inclusive cage would have the front upper hard top mounts incorporated in it. Elimination the need for the front upper brackets. Standard practice at our shop. Too dam old for the yoga.
Mark
markn@ironcanyonmotorsports.com
Iron Canyon Motorsports
#25
Posted 11-18-2015 09:24 PM
Never skimp on good beer.
This is true on so many levels.
If i understand this question it is what you can skimp on not what you should not skimp on. or maybe not, but I will work this angle?
IMO
Its ok to skimp on
1. the high test gas you run. i know you all have your favorites, but show me the dyno data in gains on one brand over the other.
2. Plug wires show me the data they are all so close its noise
3. Spark plugs same deal just keep them somewhat fresh.
4. Oil, I run 4 dollar a qt Brad Penn racing oil do not need to spend 8 dollars a qt.
5. shocks, in the context that they do not have to be replaced yearly, my guess is short of some big offs or lots of gators you can get 4 or more years, unless they leak.
6. Graphics, it looks nice but not necessary to spend so much money on looks.
7. cool suits, yes this is somewhat dependent on what part of the country you race but i have gone 3 years with not wearing one. Yes i have one, and i could have but I wanted to Man up and not be dependent on it. I have had them fail and it was a bigger distraction then not wearing one. Agree that if i raced in the south it may be different.
Things that you should NOT skimp on, this is always a compromise with your budget.
Its easy to say never compromise safety but there are several good choices with big cost swings, but by the best your budget will allow.
this goes for tires also. tires may be the biggest variable in this costly hobby. If i never had to drive on tires older than 4 sessions i am sure i would have better results. But less is more.
The list goes on, Ralph did you mention wiring?
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
#26
Posted 11-18-2015 10:45 PM
V2 Motorsports
#27
Posted 11-18-2015 10:55 PM
Surprisingly many people don't replace heater cores when doing the cage, because you're NEVER going to need that defroster, are you?
Steven Holloway
Artist formerly known as Chief Whipping Boy for Lone Star Region
#28
Posted 11-19-2015 05:37 AM
Number one item on my list of cost savings..................
Pro Motor. For a few reasons,such as:
If the donor car has been maintained and in relatively good mechanical condition I check out the state of health of the engine.and if the leakdown is low and compression is good and dyno results are respectable then I feel why spend money needlessly.I just service with new timing belt,water pump,plugs,wires etc.. If I have no delusions/aspirations of running for a nation championship or SCCA Majors, I feel at clubman level, there is more to be gained by working on the loose nut behind the steering wheel . I spent around $7k building the big block that powers my vintage circle track car that makes 600HP, so I find it difficult to justify spending near that for claims of 130HP to chase plastic trophies.
- Alberto likes this
#29
Posted 11-19-2015 08:10 AM
I spent around $7k building the big block that powers my vintage circle track car that makes 600HP, so I find it difficult to justify spending near that for claims of 130HP to chase plastic trophies.
Perspective: In quarter midget racing it's common to spend $4,000 on a glorified lawnmower engine that will grenade at any moment. I guess it's all relative.
#30
Posted 11-19-2015 08:37 AM
Number one item on my list of cost savings..................
Pro Motor. For a few reasons,such as:
If the donor car has been maintained and in relatively good mechanical condition I check out the state of health of the engine.and if the leakdown is low and compression is good and dyno results are respectable then I feel why spend money needlessly.I just service with new timing belt,water pump,plugs,wires etc.. If I have no delusions/aspirations of running for a nation championship or SCCA Majors, I feel at clubman level, there is more to be gained by working on the loose nut behind the steering wheel . I spent around $7k building the big block that powers my vintage circle track car that makes 600HP, so I find it difficult to justify spending near that for claims of 130HP to chase plastic trophies.
Dave, do the vintage circle track folks award metal trophies?
- bbursey likes this
#31
Posted 11-19-2015 08:45 AM
Dave, do the vintage circle track folks award metal trophies?
They don't even issue plastic ones when you don't race it...BAM .
Dave NEEDS to get his racing license next year and start his trophy quest. In NASA NE the trophies are solid gold forged in the furnaces of Mordor.
#32
Posted 11-19-2015 09:34 AM
The Garden State Vintage Stockcar Clubs's on track sessions are officially listed as "exhibitions" no competition for two reasons.1. It avoids some of the red tape with the State Police with regards to safety equipment,on track procedure,etc and 2. It avoids anyone getting "Red Mist" and wrecking or creating havoc in the quest for a plastic trophy.
Walter, yes totally a perspective issue. My buddy spends $35-40k on a race engine for his big block modified in attempt to win a feature that pays $2k to win!!
My feelings are that we are at the track to break away from our day to day worlds and have fun with friends playing with our toys. I get the feeling that some think they are racing Formula 1 high strung machines as opposed to the girls cars that they really are.
Paul, That's get my racing license back to active status, I still have it, I just need to get the medical and eye forms filled out. I am just avoiding/procrastinating going for my over 40 checkup!!
#33
Posted 11-19-2015 10:28 AM
I get the feeling that some think they are racing Formula 1 high strung machines as opposed to the girls cars that they really are.
You haven't lived until you've witnessed a NASCAR worthy transporter unload one little quarter midget, also occasionally occurs in SM. Pretty sure you can skimp on that.
Over 40 checkup? Not something to skimp or avoid. Every disease is infinitely more treatable/survivable when detected at an early stage.
- Jim Drago likes this
#34
Posted 11-19-2015 12:17 PM
You haven't lived until you've witnessed a NASCAR worthy transporter unload one little quarter midget, also occasionally occurs in SM. Pretty sure you can skimp on that.
Over 40 checkup? Not something to skimp or avoid. Every disease is infinitely more treatable/survivable when detected at an early stage.
Better yet when you see one unload a street car for a DE event.
#35
Posted 11-20-2015 11:23 AM
Perspective: New 360 Sprint car engine $29,000.00 New 410 Sprint Car engine $42,000. Freshen after every season $6500.00. Value after running one season and just rebuilt? $15,000.
Moderate flip on a half mile? $6500 (Eldora)
New RR tire every night $210
Randy Fusi
Not won diddley
Sponsored by no one
Coached by a guy Todd Lamb coaches
WWW.RandyFusi.XXX (under construction)
#36
Posted 11-20-2015 02:09 PM
#37
Posted 11-20-2015 04:21 PM
You can definitely skimp on the Titanium fasteners. Saw a SM for sale last week, "lots of Ti bolts to reduce unsprung weight". For us mortals, that is money better spent on fresh rubber.
#38
Posted 11-20-2015 04:29 PM
Where would you use Ti bolts that would be unsprung? This makes no sense, in a number of ways.
#39
Posted 11-21-2015 10:11 PM
glad this thread has two pages so far....never thought it would gain much traction, thanks to Johnny D for starting it.
i second Ralph's thoughts on cages. every single year i come across multiple cars with total shit cages. welds that purely are garbage and poor layout with interior room compromised.
for those of you looking at the used market for a SM. spend the time and $$$$ to at least have someone look over the car that knows what they're doing before buying it. that doesn't mean your buddy that runs the class, i'm talking about someone whose built multiple SM's for several years and makes a living doing that.
every year we get cars dropped off and sometimes after the updates/repairs are done, the buyer should have had a brand new car built for them.
worse yet, after finding undisclosed damage and horrible workmanship, we've re-tubbed two cars this year alone for customers.
be careful out there....
- Johnny D likes this
Marc Cefalo
www.planet-miata.com
570-262-1013 direct
#1 source for new and used Miata parts and accessories.
#40
Posted 11-22-2015 07:34 AM
Where would you use Ti bolts that would be unsprung? This makes no sense, in a number of ways.
You are right, it makes no sense, but it makes no sense to most of us in a manner quite different than how it makes no sense to you. (and to very few really fast and talented drivers, it actually makes quite a bit of sense)
In a ground vehicle with a suspension, theunsprung weight (or the unsprung mass) is the mass of the suspension, wheels or tracks (as applicable), and other components directly connected to them, rather than supported by the suspension.
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