65 replies to this topic

[FTodaro]

ok a little confused on this. i have always taken the PPF off and the whole exhaust system out to replace the trans. what are you loosening to get it to swing and how are you getting up and around the exhaust pipe

Your from IL so we expect "confusion"

 

I just disconnect the down tube from the exhaust. and then disconnect the down tube from the header and tie wrap it out of the way so I do not have to unhook the O2 sensor, i take all the bolts off the PPL except one on the diff. I loosen that so I can slip the PPF out of the way. , I just leave the back half of the exhaust sys hang or tie it out of the way.

 

but a bing but a boom.

[mellen]

Your from IL so we expect "confusion"

 

I just disconnect the down tube from the exhaust. and then disconnect the down tube from the header and tie wrap it out of the way so I do not have to unhook the O2 sensor, i take all the bolts off the PPL except one on the diff. I loosen that so I can slip the PPF out of the way. , I just leave the back half of the exhaust sys hang or tie it out of the way.

 

but a bing but a boom.

yes the state of confusion!!  excellent, thanks Frank

[Bench Racer]

yes the state of confusion!! 

Come on, those from outside the state call it, the state of (questionable) politics.

[ChrisA]

I've got to pull my trans either this or next weekend, so I can replace the lightweight flywheel I have in there with the OE. This and then the suspension and I should be good to go!

 

What do you guys recommend on the flywheel bolts; Blue thread-locker, Permatex thread sealant or something else? Last time (and first time) the job took me and a friend all day and caused many an ache & pain. Think I'll have access a lift this time around, so hoping things will go a little smoother.

[Keith Novak]

I use the Permatex thread sealant.  That's it's intended use as opposed to a thread locker and they do make good products. 

 

For best results I first clean all the bolts on the bench grinder wire wheel, then apply sealant to all bolts at the same time (less mess), and then start installing bolts. It separates over time in the tube so shake well or massage it prior to use.  It should be whiteish not clear.  The color is handy because it's easy to see if you smeared enough on to smear it around the entire circumference.

[FTodaro]

I use the blue med thread locker gel. I like the gel as it does not run off the bolt.
Otherwise I do what Keith does, by starting with a clean bolt.

[RazerX]

i just put one in and was told to use red thread locker..  Might have a problem removing it...

[ChrisA]

I use the blue med thread locker gel. I like the gel as it does not run off the bolt.
Otherwise I do what Keith does, by starting with a clean bolt.

I both thread lockers and the Permatex hi-temp sealant on hand, just trying to determine what's best for this application. For the PP I like Locktite 246, it's a medium strength/hi-temp thread locker.

[SaulSpeedwell]

Stuck in reverse!!!

It turns out that the reverse shift rod was stuck. You can fix it by removing the backup switch and manually moving the shift rod back. While this is possible with the transmission still attached to the car, I wasn't able to do it. I ended up removing the tranny, pulling the backup switch and once I could see what I was doing it was easy to push the reverse shift rod back into place. Knowing what I know now, it would be easy to do while on the car, but you would have to have done it once before to know exactly what you are supposed to do.

I now have the tranny back in the car with the drive shaft attached and spinning freely. It sucked to have to pull the tranny again, but I must say that I am getting pretty good at it now. LOL just under 2 hours to remove the drive shaft, loosen the PFF, remove the clutch slave and starter, drop the tranny, fix it and put it all back together.

I appreciate all the help and suggestions everyone provided. You guys(gals) make this a great place to come for help.

 

Some thoughts and unsolicited advice:

1.  Always "bench shift" a transmission before you put it in - especially if it is unknown and/or has been shipped, dropped, etc.  Make sure it rotates freely in neutral, goes in all 5 gears and reverse, AND rotates smoothly as it should in each those gears.

 

2.  As you know now, the "stuck in gear" situation can be solved with screwdriver wizardry through the R switch or N switch holes.  EITHER ARE POSSIBLE, but a "jam" being fixable through the R switch hole is more likely if you were/are stuck in 4th/5th WHILE ON TRACK.  If the box was shipped or dropped, it could be either - figure out which gear it is in by observing input and output shaft relationship/speeds/ratios while rotating, or just look through the holes and mess with it. 

 

I didn't see if/where you said so, but if you were stuck in R, I presume this box was shipped.  Getting stuck in R is fairly tough to do with the unit in the car.  There are shipping techniques you can use to avoid jamming the trans in shipping - but, alas, UPS can destroy anything if they try hard enough.

 

3.  If the box is known good and in the car when you jam the shifter AND THEN you get the stuck gear issue, this is caused MOSTLY by worn shift selectors.  Slow down the shifting, stop power shifting, and/or take the box out and get it rebuilt.  One of the slowest ways around the track is being stuck in one gear

[SaulSpeedwell]

Come on, those from outside the state call it, the state of (questionable) politics.

 

Don't look now, but your partisanship is showing   Look up the story of your fellow statesmen Josh Inglett sometime, you might find that pots and kettles are both black in Wisconsin, too! 

 

(And hey! ... I LOVE WISCONSIN ... as long as you don't start sticking your flag on every flat surface, wearing "God Bless Wisconsin" shirts, "Don't Mess With Wisconsin" belt buckles, or threaten to secede from the Union every time you don't get your way ....

[Bench Racer]

Don't look now, but your partisanship is showing   Look up the story of your fellow statesmen Josh Inglett sometime, you might find that pots and kettles are both black in Wisconsin, too! 

 

 Yes indeed, I do remember the Governor reversing his appointment. My bitch with the Governor today is that he stated that if all elevan Wisconsin Indiana tribes didn't agree on the new casino at Kenosha WI he would not allow the casino to be built. The dude is waffling for the past several weeks and will not say, no casion. Two tribes don't want the casino.   

 

 

 

(And hey! ... I LOVE WISCONSIN ... as long as you don't start sticking your flag on every flat surface, wearing "God Bless Wisconsin" shirts, "Don't Mess With Wisconsin" belt buckles, or threaten to secede from the Union every time you don't get your way ....

 

A couple stories go along with this ^.

A bunch of years ago when dating a lady from Oregon, IL she always enjoyed comming to Wisconsin for evenings out. Hmmm...... One Sunday evening as she was leaving I applied a "Escape to Wisconsin" decal to her car rear bumper. 

Story number two:

How about belt buckles that have a small platform that fold horizontal, holds a beer so one may talk with both hands.

Story number three:

Secession and sovereign statehood[edit]

In 1967, as a result of the town name being inadvertently left off the official Wisconsin road map, a secret committee formulated a plan to secede from Wisconsin, set up toll gates on local roads, began annexation of nearby communities (starting with the city of Oshkosh) to form a Sovereign State of Winneconne, and declare war on the United States.^[9] As an alternative plan, annexation by another state, preferably one with better weather, was sought. The deadline for secession was July 21, 1967. A proclamation was issued, naming village president "James Coughlin to be president of the new state of Winneconne; Vera Kitchen to be prime minister and custodian of Vera’s Kitchen Cabinet". Wisconsin Governor Warren P. Knowles entered into negotiations with the former village officials; as a result, Winneconne rejoined the State of Wisconsin at 12:01 AM on July 22, 1967. An annual Sovereign State Days celebration commemorates the event.^[10]

 

 

 

  

[HoneyBadger - BrianW]

Some thoughts and unsolicited advice:

1.  Always "bench shift" a transmission before you put it in - especially if it is unknown and/or has been shipped, dropped, etc.  Make sure it rotates freely in neutral, goes in all 5 gears and reverse, AND rotates smoothly as it should in each those gears.

 

2.  As you know now, the "stuck in gear" situation can be solved with screwdriver wizardry through the R switch or N switch holes.  EITHER ARE POSSIBLE, but a "jam" being fixable through the R switch hole is more likely if you were/are stuck in 4th/5th WHILE ON TRACK.  If the box was shipped or dropped, it could be either - figure out which gear it is in by observing input and output shaft relationship/speeds/ratios while rotating, or just look through the holes and mess with it. 

 

I didn't see if/where you said so, but if you were stuck in R, I presume this box was shipped.  Getting stuck in R is fairly tough to do with the unit in the car.  There are shipping techniques you can use to avoid jamming the trans in shipping - but, alas, UPS can destroy anything if they try hard enough.

 

3.  If the box is known good and in the car when you jam the shifter AND THEN you get the stuck gear issue, this is caused MOSTLY by worn shift selectors.  Slow down the shifting, stop power shifting, and/or take the box out and get it rebuilt.  One of the slowest ways around the track is being stuck in one gear

Thanks for the words of advice... this is a super old post. I now ALWAYS put the shifter in and make sure everything is functioning before I put the transmission in the car.

 

On a side note, mostly due to being the resident tranny b*1ch for both x-factor racing as well as Phillips Race Prep, I have significantly reduced my time to remove and replace a tranny. I think the last one we did in 45 minutes from up on jack stands to dropped back on the ground.

[James York]

Thanks for the words of advice... this is a super old post. I now ALWAYS put the shifter in and make sure everything is functioning before I put the transmission in the car.

 

On a side note, mostly due to being the resident tranny b*1ch for both x-factor racing as well as Phillips Race Prep, I have significantly reduced my time to remove and replace a tranny. I think the last one we did in 45 minutes from up on jack stands to dropped back on the ground.

Having a "younger" back, and a probably the ability to out bench press   any of us, you come in handy.....  

[SaulSpeedwell]

Thanks for the words of advice... this is a super old post. I now ALWAYS put the shifter in and make sure everything is functioning before I put the transmission in the car.

 

On a side note, mostly due to being the resident tranny b*1ch for both x-factor racing as well as Phillips Race Prep, I have significantly reduced my time to remove and replace a tranny. I think the last one we did in 45 minutes from up on jack stands to dropped back on the ground.

Ha, sorry, I didn't notice the thread started ages ago.

 

Erik Stearns' near-elderly Dad has the tranny swap record up here, possibly <30 minutes.  His secret seemed to be using only 4 bellhousing bolts! 

[davew]

Brian may have the fastest trans swap. 25 minutes at the ARRC last week.

 

Dave

[pat slattery]

any quick fixes for a tranny that won't go into reverse?

[SaulSpeedwell]

any quick fixes for a tranny that won't go into reverse?

Probably not.  If that is the only complaint, and it won't shift into Reverse even with the engine off and sitting still, chances are a hurried 5-4 downshift caused the hub sleeve to peen over.

 

I'd still poke around the shift turret and make sure nothing is magically blocking the shifter from getting into Reverse, and I'd take the Reverse switch out just to see what I see, but chances are it needs rebuilt.

[ChrisA]

Last time I did this job, a few years ago, it was done at a friends garage. He had a wide assortment of ratchet extensions, but the longest I currently have is 18", which I know is not long enough. Do I need to pick up a 24" or 36" extension for this job?

[Ron Alan]

24" 1/2" extension with adapter to 14 and 17mm swivel 3/8" drive sockets. Of course this seems to work the best for space with the upper bolts...good impact has no problem with the 1/2" extension.

 

Harbor Freight is your friend for these once a year tools....sorry...flame the cheap guy!!

[Keith Novak]

Handy tip:  If you don't have a 24" extension, you can attach a 6" to your 18" extension and it's almost the same thing.