Man. I get no respekt!

Rear Brake Pad Wisdom
#21
Posted 07-09-2018 11:16 AM

John Davison
Autotechnik Racing / 5x Racing
2016 - Central Florida Region Champion
2017 - The People's Champion
2017 - President of DSFC
#itcouldbeyou





#22
Posted 07-09-2018 01:33 PM

For the record, I only dive bomb for P12 and higher.
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#23
Posted 07-09-2018 03:05 PM

For the record, I only dive bomb for P12 and higher.
Sounds about right. Because in your area of the country, besides the June Sprints, P12 would be the battle for not finishing last lol
John Davison
Autotechnik Racing / 5x Racing
2016 - Central Florida Region Champion
2017 - The People's Champion
2017 - President of DSFC
#itcouldbeyou





#24
Posted 07-09-2018 05:39 PM

Sounds about right. Because in your area of the country, besides the June Sprints, P12 would be the battle for not finishing last lol
Man. I get no respekt!
Duh, and you can't figure out why.
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#25
Posted 07-10-2018 05:42 AM

Duh, and you can't figure out why.
Please enlighten me? I feel very lonely
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John Davison
Autotechnik Racing / 5x Racing
2016 - Central Florida Region Champion
2017 - The People's Champion
2017 - President of DSFC
#itcouldbeyou





#26
Posted 07-10-2018 11:46 AM

Please enlighten me? I feel very lonely
Slinger (WI) Superseal Miller Lite National practice. 32 cars within .4 second 11.4 to 11.8 seconds around the Worlds fastest quarter mile with a track record of 11.09 seconds, including Daytona 400 winner Erik Jones.



#27
Posted 07-10-2018 08:30 PM

Still have no idea why Carbotech users choose to run the XP 10/8 Combo????. I happily ran Carbotechs for many years and that combo didn't even have enough stopping power in the rain.
Nothing against Carbotech, they are really good brakes and I liked their performance, but that combination is for wussies!!!!
Seriously you REALLY need to TEST out all their brake compounds and figure out how you reduce the time under braking, because every milli-second under braking is a milli-second squandered at the highest speed entering into the braking zone. And Milli-seconds at top speeds add up turn by turn, lap by lap. And if you look at most margins of victory in the majority of events, except for a few exceptions, mutiple turns x 15 - 20 laps starts to add up really fast and might mean the difference between 2nd and challenging for first.
But of course this is true for all brake manufacturers, and all brake compounds. and all combinations of compounds. If you haven't spent a few days testing compound combinations at a track and examining the data, you have no idea what you are leaving on the table. Just sayin................
Personally I am very happy with my G-Loc brakes but it has taken me and several other fast drivers a lot of time to sort out the right combo for different tracks:- tracks with high threshold braking, tracks which favor progressive braking, tracks which favor trail braking and of course determining the best compound combo under full wet conditions, as well as semi wet drying conditions. All of these circumstances provide opportunities for optimization
Danny
Danny Steyn Racing | DSR YouTube Channel
Danny Steyn Photography | Adept Studios | Ocean Machinery | OPM Autosports | Rossini Racing Engines | G-Loc Brakes |
2 x SCCA Runoffs Champ | 1 x NASA National Champ | 6 x June Sprints Champ | 10 x ARRC Champ
1 x SCCA Super Sweep | 2 x Triple Crown | 4 x Hoosier Super Tour Points Champ | 6 x Majors Points Champ | 5 x SEDiv Driver of the Year











#28
Posted 07-10-2018 08:33 PM

#29
Posted 07-10-2018 11:55 PM

Still have no idea why Carbotech users choose to run the XP 10/8 Combo????. I happily ran Carbotechs for many years and that combo didn't even have enough stopping power in the rain.
I seem to recall that the former owners frequently recommended that combo. Perhaps they meant it as a starting point. That said, I suspect that lots of drivers start with a compound and then develop their driving style around that compound and those characteristics.
#30
Posted 07-11-2018 08:41 AM

I seem to recall that the former owners frequently recommended that combo. Perhaps they meant it as a starting point. That said, I suspect that lots of drivers start with a compound and then develop their driving style around that compound and those characteristics.
I think budget racers who may not be sponsored by G-Loc don't want to buy $1000 dollars worth of pads to see which ones they like and just take the best advice they can find.
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#31
Posted 07-11-2018 10:27 AM

12-10 for a 1.6 car. 8/8 for wrl,lemons,chump ect and 6-6 for autocross/aggressive daily
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3 podium finishes
2 2013 NASA nats
1 2013 Scca runoffs







#32
Posted 07-11-2018 10:52 AM

#33
Posted 07-11-2018 12:40 PM

- Ron Alan likes this
3 podium finishes
2 2013 NASA nats
1 2013 Scca runoffs







#34
Posted 07-11-2018 12:40 PM

Sounds to me like you just lack finesse.
bahahahaha, dead.
John Davison
Autotechnik Racing / 5x Racing
2016 - Central Florida Region Champion
2017 - The People's Champion
2017 - President of DSFC
#itcouldbeyou





#35
Posted 07-11-2018 01:16 PM

I’ll put it in simple combos so people can save money trying. Best all around combo is 16/12 g-loc for an nb car.
12-10 for a 1.6 car. 8/8 for wrl,lemons,chump ect and 6-6 for autocross/aggressive daily
I run 12-10 on my 99 actually. Willing to try going up to a 16 next time I need to put on brakes, but I like what I have on now too. Havent tried anything different, but I like them WAY better than hawk DTCs and a little bit better than the blues.
I also go 8-8 on the Chump car too and it works perfectly.
John Davison
Autotechnik Racing / 5x Racing
2016 - Central Florida Region Champion
2017 - The People's Champion
2017 - President of DSFC
#itcouldbeyou





#36
Posted 07-11-2018 01:57 PM

Was less aggressive than I typically run. It stopped I just pushed harder
Not that we were testing anything but you just ran what was on the car! 10/8 BTW. And you validated my point earlier...any pad will stop a car...limiting factor is always rubber on the road! Pedal pressure(FEEL)is individual...more aggresive pads just take less! And for the budget conscience more aggressive pads typically dont last as long(nor do the rotors). And then there is modulation...
For what it is worth...switching from Carbotech to G-Loc I've noticed a shorter life? Remember these pads are identical material(so i'm told)...anyone else notice this?
Ron
RAmotorsports


#37
Posted 07-11-2018 05:29 PM

For what it is worth...switching from Carbotech to G-Loc I've noticed a shorter life? Remember these pads are identical material(so i'm told)...anyone else notice this?
I tried a set of G-Loc’s Last year that were supposed to be the same as the carbotech’s I had been running. Felt great for a weekend. Then they were total garbage (had about 1/2 the torque as when used the weekend before). I contacted them- was told to send pictures to them. They said must be glazed and instructed me to deglaze and swap inner and outers with each other. I threw them away and bought more Carbotechs. There was something clearly different between them.
#38
Posted 07-11-2018 10:57 PM

I’ll put it in simple combos so people can save money trying. Best all around combo is 16/12 g-loc for an nb car.
12-10 for a 1.6 car. 8/8 for wrl,lemons,chump ect and 6-6 for autocross/aggressive daily
A bit surprised with the 1.6 but I don’t have any quantitative info the the the G-locs to judge just how much difference there is between 12 & 10. Don’t they publish that stuff?
Even more surprised by the NB combo despite having less experience on that platform. Danny, is that closer to what you run?
Stopping is essentially just straight-line cornering, the G’s/acceleration is just longitudinal rather than lateral. That IS the point of the classic friction circle after all. We’ll never see a circle because our engines make no power, but for cornering, braking and any combination of those the idea is the same, get all four contact patches operating very close to their limits of adhesion while maintaining control. If you rely more than necessary on the fronts then you are leaving something on the table, PERIOD, I don’t really care how you drive. Someone offer evidence, or even a good rational explanation why that’s wrong. I’m listening. There's a lot to be said for modulation and trail-braking friendly compounds but those fall under “while maintaining control†and don’t change the fundamentals.
It’s also worth noting that the flatter your car stops (meaning less nose-dive) the less, and less abrupt, the weight transfer off the fronts returning to the rear as you get off the brakes, making the transition approaching and entering corners smoother. Again, the friction circle, and keeping the work split as evenly as possible between all four tires as much as possible. It starts with physics and trying to outsmart it is almost always a losing battle. TO BE CLEAR, I’m not saying that any of the above mentioned combinations don’t accomplish that with a given setup on a given car, but I am saying that any comments about the rears not mattering much are wrong, and with a few extreme exceptions there is no need to vary that balance by track.


#39
Posted 07-11-2018 11:00 PM

bahahahaha, dead.
I’m glad someone was amused, I thought it was damn funny!
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#40
Posted 07-12-2018 03:58 AM

For some reason on the newer VVT we get rear brake lock-up under threshold breaking...I did not get rear brake lock-up on my 99 nor my 2001 VVT...not sure what other that are driving VVT's are experiencing.
I agree with Steve in my older VVT I was able to get the car to squat under breaking but I can not get that balance on my new VVT 2003 car..
I guess I have to play with same compounds. I am trying Glocs and another brand during test dat at NJMP
- Danica Davison likes this
Richard Astacio
2003 Spec Miata VVT & 2013 Cup Car



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