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Building My First SM

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#21
Lowlyslows

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Some pics of the car and progress, more to come.

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#22
Lowlyslows

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Some pics of the progress. Working on removing material from the car. Getting ready to dry ice the sound deadening material off as well as remove as much of the seam sealer as I can. I also ordered the East Street floor drop pan which will go in after I am done with the above. Just realized that I need to order some jack stands.

 

Looking at these: https://pitstopusa.c...ategory:1217379

 

 

 

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Getting to this point wasn't too hard, luckily nothing broke! Hopefully I can sell the interior parts to help pay for future purchases!

 

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I am following the contructors guide and have seen several images of Miata's with the NASCAR bars going into the door. Following the GCR and the guide, I am still unsure how much material I can remove from the door. I have seen pictures of most of the inner portion of the door removed and pictures of just enough so the NASCAR bars can fit through. Any tips?

 

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Need to source a new fuel tank cover. Mine is rusted and busted.

 

Lastly, if I am interpreting the GCR correctly, I plan to just wire tie any wires that will not be used our of the way instead of gutting them from the car. I'm pretty sure that's not allowed and this will help prevent any short to ground issues. 

 

Questions: Can I remove the trunk lights from the trunk lid? What about the switches for the doors? 

 

Thanks! 

 



#23
tylerbrown

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Just realized that I need to order some jack stands.

 

Looking at these: https://pitstopusa.c...ategory:1217379

 

 

I have these stands and they work great, but spend the little extra money and get the aluminum ones, they're only a little more and they are much lighter, which makes it much easier for lugging around the pit/paddock/shop!

 

As far as gutting the doors, I have seen people cut them in a multitude of ways, I try to make sure to leave in as much material as possible towards the front/top and definitely make sure the mounting point for the factory triangle window remains.

 

Wires you are correct they just need to be ziptied up, no gutting.


Tyler Brown

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#24
Alberto

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How much you cut out of the doors depends on whether you need to keep a platform to attach the door windows and how much weight you need to cut out of the car in order to make the minimum weight. :)

 

When I first started 10 years ago, I weighed 190 and made weight easily so the clean, minimal cuts that my cage builder cut out to fit the nascar bars was sufficient.  Now, I'm 210 and my doors are... 'generously' cut/clearanced to accomodate the nascar bars and get close to min weight... :(

 

50472690312_c77495f6fc.jpgSpec Miata door by alberto_mg, on Flickr

 

Many people remove the driver side corner window these days since we run halo seats.  Removing the corner window facilitates a fast exit if the door doesn't open and the car is on fire.  You can also relocate the door mirrors 6" forward for better visibility.

 

You can use these from Advanced for the windows if needed:

https://www.advanced...ts/window-mount


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#25
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Lowlyslows, when people are making comments be aware of the year car they drive. For example Alberto is concerned about weight including his personal body weight. He drives a 1990 car which has a minimum weight of 2,275 pounds and a 1999 minum weight is 2400 pounds. 


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#26
Steve Scheifler

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The side mirrors can be moved 10” now.
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#27
Lowlyslows

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I have these stands and they work great, but spend the little extra money and get the aluminum ones, they're only a little more and they are much lighter, which makes it much easier for lugging around the pit/paddock/shop!

 

As far as gutting the doors, I have seen people cut them in a multitude of ways, I try to make sure to leave in as much material as possible towards the front/top and definitely make sure the mounting point for the factory triangle window remains.

 

Wires you are correct they just need to be ziptied up, no gutting.

I read that the aluminum ones don't last long, what's your opinion on this?

 

With the wires, do you guys keep the electronically adjustable side mirrors functioning or do you delete that capability? I don't mind having wires in the door but if I am, I figured I would keep this feature. Thoughts?



#28
Lowlyslows

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How much you cut out of the doors depends on whether you need to keep a platform to attach the door windows and how much weight you need to cut out of the car in order to make the minimum weight. :)

 

When I first started 10 years ago, I weighed 190 and made weight easily so the clean, minimal cuts that my cage builder cut out to fit the nascar bars was sufficient.  Now, I'm 210 and my doors are... 'generously' cut/clearanced to accomodate the nascar bars and get close to min weight... :(

 

50472690312_c77495f6fc.jpgSpec Miata door by alberto_mg, on Flickr

 

Many people remove the driver side corner window these days since we run halo seats.  Removing the corner window facilitates a fast exit if the door doesn't open and the car is on fire.  You can also relocate the door mirrors 6" forward for better visibility.

 

You can use these from Advanced for the windows if needed:

https://www.advanced...ts/window-mount

Wow! That door is gutted! I guess I can make the decision to run a NACA duct vent window or not after I get the seat. I was planning to run the vent window for some airflow but getting out of a car on fire probably out weighs the need to keep cooler!

 

I haven't put any thought to moving the mirrors yet..



#29
Tom Hampton

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Wow! That door is gutted! I guess I can make the decision to run a NACA duct vent window or not after I get the seat. I was planning to run the vent window for some airflow but getting out of a car on fire probably out weighs the need to keep cooler!

 

I haven't put any thought to moving the mirrors yet..

 

 

Definitely kill the triangle window.  I'm as small as they come...and its tight getting out around the seat halo with a helmet, race suit, and HANS device on...that's just when you are calm in the driveway at home.  You want every bit of room to GTFU when shits on fire and the door is jammed.

 

With a full suit and a helmet outside airflow doesn't make that much difference.  There's plenty of airflow from the open windows, anway.  Put the NACA in the passenger window and a hose pointing at you, if you want some air.  Plan on a cool suit to stay cool, though.

 

I also deleted the "spike" you see in the picture of Alberto's window....the last remnant of "track" for the triangle window glass.  I made a Lexan window to cover the space when trailered, or in the paddock overnight to keep most rain water out.    


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#30
Alberto

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With the wires, do you guys keep the electronically adjustable side mirrors functioning or do you delete that capability? I don't mind having wires in the door but if I am, I figured I would keep this feature. Thoughts?

 

keeping the electric adjust would be helpful in my opinion.  Kinda wish my car had it.  They are always going out of alignment from me and others bumping them in the pits when walking by.


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#31
Tom Hampton

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keeping the electric adjust would be helpful in my opinion.  Kinda wish my car had it.  They are always going out of alignment from me and others bumping them in the pits when walking by.

 

And incidental door-2-door contact.  :-)

 

Heck I jjjjuuuuuusssst barely scraped a wall one time.  Only mark was a quarter sized spot of paint rubbed off the drivers mirror.  Well, that and the mirror was misaligned for the rest of the race---since my 1990 was a very low-cost version.  No power anything.


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#32
Lowlyslows

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Sounds good, I will ditch the triangle window and keep the electric mirrors working. 

 

I got my drop pan today from ESR. It's a nice piece! I do have some questions on it though as it didn't come with instructions and I want to make sure I am installing it correctly. 

 

I'm certain I have figured out how to get the pan in correctly. What I am unsure of is how I should cut out the frame member. Does the new frame piece overlap the old one or is it butted against the existing member?

 

Also, what do you guys do for the O2 sensor coming through the tunnel and the heat shield mounting nuts that get removed with the floor?

 

See the image on the link below with questions. Thanks!

 

https://www.flickr.c...190766444@N06/?



#33
tylerbrown

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Also, what do you guys do for the O2 sensor coming through the tunnel and the heat shield mounting nuts that get removed with the floor?

 

See the image on the link below with questions. Thanks!

 

https://www.flickr.c...190766444@N06/?

 

I removed that heat shield and do not run them post drop pan install. The rear o2 sensor does not need to be plugged into the exhaust either, so I do not add a new hole in the drop pan for that o2 sensor. I still have the stock sensor plugged in, but its tied up and shoved in the hole that is behind the driver door jam. Sometimes the car doesn't throw a code for the rear o2 when its just plugged in, but other times it still will. Does not affect performance.


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Tyler Brown

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2020 Majors Northern Conference Champion - SM

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#34
Lowlyslows

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I removed that heat shield and do not run them post drop pan install. The rear o2 sensor does not need to be plugged into the exhaust either, so I do not add a new hole in the drop pan for that o2 sensor. I still have the stock sensor plugged in, but its tied up and shoved in the hole that is behind the driver door jam. Sometimes the car doesn't throw a code for the rear o2 when its just plugged in, but other times it still will. Does not affect performance.

 

Is this a common setup for the rear O2 sensor or does it vary by driver/car? Why not just have it installed? I checked out some pictures on Advanced Autosports website for the exhaust they sell and I didn't see an O2 sensor sticking out of the exhaust. However, they say that the bung comes pre installed on the kit. I would have assumed this would have caused the engine to run rich.

 

OK cool, heat shield can go! 

 

Have you installed this pan or another pan before? I am still unsure how to connect the existing frame that gets cut out with the new piece that was provided by ESR. It is either butted up and welding in place OR overlaps the existing frame with stitch and plug welds. Seems like that 2nd option would be stronger.

 

Thanks for the tips!



#35
Tom Hampton

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I didn't do the floor drop, but I also removed the trans tunnel heat shield.  That said, I did line the outside of the trans tunnel with ceramic heat insulating cloth.  Like this:

 

https://www.pegasusa...sp?Product=1828

 

Its probably not vital in that area, and may depend on how close your seat is to the tunnel.  However, the footbox by the gas-pedal is more important...which I also lined on the outside with the same stuff (actually a double layer).  That can get very hot at the end of a long summer race, where your foot and shin rest against the tunnel.  


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#36
Steve Scheifler

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I haven’t dyno tested but the aded flow disruption/restriction of the second one is likely unmeasurable but probably not zero. It is post-cat and primarily monitoring the effectiveness of the cat rather than driving fuel delivery even at idle, so arguably we’d prefer that it see clean air over our non-scrubbed exhaust. The first one is not active under racing loads, I’m not sure about the second but it doesn’t really matter. Someone else may have more detailed information.
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#37
tylerbrown

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Is this a common setup for the rear O2 sensor or does it vary by driver/car? Why not just have it installed? I checked out some pictures on Advanced Autosports website for the exhaust they sell and I didn't see an O2 sensor sticking out of the exhaust. However, they say that the bung comes pre installed on the kit. I would have assumed this would have caused the engine to run rich.

 

OK cool, heat shield can go! 

 

 

I believe it is common to not use the second o2 sensor. As Steve mentioned, it is primarily used for monitoring the effectiveness of the Cat, but we have removed the cats.. The second o2 sensor does not affect the engine performance. I also have been told that the front o2 sensor does not affect performance either.

 

The bung/preinstalled bung is primarily used by the aftermarket data systems that people install.


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Tyler Brown

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#38
Alberto

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I lined the underside of my transmission tunnel with DEI floor and tunnel shield.  It is very effective for limiting heat intrusion into the cabin and keeping your feet from burning up due to heat radiating from the exhaust and other parts on the other side of the sheet metal.  

https://www.designen...eld-ii-21-x-48/

 

I forget which size i got...

 

There is an old discussion on this somewhere on this forum...


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#39
Lowlyslows

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I believe it is common to not use the second o2 sensor. As Steve mentioned, it is primarily used for monitoring the effectiveness of the Cat, but we have removed the cats.. The second o2 sensor does not affect the engine performance. I also have been told that the front o2 sensor does not affect performance either.

 

The bung/preinstalled bung is primarily used by the aftermarket data systems that people install.

 

Must be common as the GCR clearly states "The post catalytic converter oxygen sensor may be disabled, replaced, relocated, or removed." 

 

Thanks for the support! I was fitting the new drop floor pan yesterday and removing the heat shield and cutting the cat out of the way is making the process easier. I'll post pictures of the install soon.



#40
Lowlyslows

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I lined the underside of my transmission tunnel with DEI floor and tunnel shield.  It is very effective for limiting heat intrusion into the cabin and keeping your feet from burning up due to heat radiating from the exhaust and other parts on the other side of the sheet metal.  

https://www.designen...eld-ii-21-x-48/

 

I forget which size i got...

 

There is an old discussion on this somewhere on this forum...

 

Fantastic idea! I had read on that it gets hot in those areas. Added to my build notes to complete.






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