Wow! That door is gutted! I guess I can make the decision to run a NACA duct vent window or not after I get the seat. I was planning to run the vent window for some airflow but getting out of a car on fire probably out weighs the need to keep cooler!

 

I haven't put any thought to moving the mirrors yet..

 

 

Definitely kill the triangle window.  I'm as small as they come...and its tight getting out around the seat halo with a helmet, race suit, and HANS device on...that's just when you are calm in the driveway at home.  You want every bit of room to GTFU when shits on fire and the door is jammed.

 

With a full suit and a helmet outside airflow doesn't make that much difference.  There's plenty of airflow from the open windows, anway.  Put the NACA in the passenger window and a hose pointing at you, if you want some air.  Plan on a cool suit to stay cool, though.

 

I also deleted the "spike" you see in the picture of Alberto's window....the last remnant of "track" for the triangle window glass.  I made a Lexan window to cover the space when trailered, or in the paddock overnight to keep most rain water out.    

keeping the electric adjust would be helpful in my opinion.  Kinda wish my car had it.  They are always going out of alignment from me and others bumping them in the pits when walking by.

 

And incidental door-2-door contact.  :-)

 

Heck I jjjjuuuuuusssst barely scraped a wall one time.  Only mark was a quarter sized spot of paint rubbed off the drivers mirror.  Well, that and the mirror was misaligned for the rest of the race---since my 1990 was a very low-cost version.  No power anything.

I didn't do the floor drop, but I also removed the trans tunnel heat shield.  That said, I did line the outside of the trans tunnel with ceramic heat insulating cloth.  Like this:

 

https://www.pegasusa...sp?Product=1828

 

Its probably not vital in that area, and may depend on how close your seat is to the tunnel.  However, the footbox by the gas-pedal is more important...which I also lined on the outside with the same stuff (actually a double layer).  That can get very hot at the end of a long summer race, where your foot and shin rest against the tunnel.  

I have an earlier version of that seat in my car.  I've been perfectly happy with it.  Its protected me in a couple of solid impacts over the years with no issues.

 

The horizontal flat plat around the halo can interfere with the main hoop in installations for taller drivers....like you.  I'm 5' 11", 143 lbs.  So, I'm a skinny little shit.  

 

ETA: actually, looking more closely at the pix...it looks like they significantly shrunk the flat plate by folding it and reinforcing it.  So, I take it back, it probably fits much better without much risk of interfering with the hoop.  Nevertheless, this is always a primary consideration when fitting a seat to a new car...and bigger drivers have more challenges to work around.

 

I always recommend fitting the seat and the cage at the same time to be sure you can put the seat where you want it (centered and aligned to the steering axis).  The last guy who didn't listen...ended up with a seat that he had to move off-line and off-axis to get the seat in because he "couldn't wait" to start the cage.  

 

 

Dave, 

 

What's your opinion with this seat: https://www.ultrashi...iata-halo-seat/

 

I looked at the Kirkey 71 and like it, saw this brand on Advanced Autosports. Thoughts?

Good plan.  I'm sure the shelf mount will help a bunch with seat placement. Miatacage has the most clearance of any of the kits that I'm aware of.  My cage hoop goes to the floor---I also have a different cage.   

 

When I did mine I temporarily clamped my seat into position, and then tacked the hoop, cage sides, and door bars into place...making sure they cleared the seat and halo.  It took a few tries to get things goldilocks and all.  

 

My build is in my sig below.  

WOW - I just read the thread, that was crazy!

There may have been a second side-thread where the CV joints were discussed in more detail.  I'm not sure.  

 

But....yeah.  

I tend to rethink and recalibrate a few times in cases like this. I need to do that elsewhere then paste it in.

 

Bah!  Its the silly season.  It's kinda sad that this is the most controversial rules discussion we can come up with.  

Now this I would like to hear about, thread link?

Search for nasa Cota Champs.

 

So the next question up for debate is why is Tom Hampton such a twit? Chimes in on everything but doesn't lend anything to the conversation except trolling. I guess that is a safe position for an engineer that can't risk being wrong in anything lest it fall apart underneath him.

 

Lol.  

 

Says the person who claimed that the rule changed recently (and is different in NASA), and literally said  "I AM CORRECT"...on a rule that hasn't changed in AGES and is identical between organizations.  Is that a raven in your avatar or a Crow?  

 

As an engineer for the better part of 30 years, I've been wrong LOADS of times---but, I try not to make a habit of it.  I especially try not to be wrong the same way more than once.  

 

As for being a twit...I don't know what to say, I guess I underperformed.  I usually try to be more of an asshole.  

I'm late to this party I went back and read this again.  This rule was written early on in my CRB tenor.  It is exactly as Steve has been describing.. Whoever said this to Jamz, whether it be SCCA or NASA was wrong in their interpretation. 

 

 

 

Maybe it was the same person who created CV-joint-gate.

Thats correct

 

Don't tell Jamz.  

I can see Steve posting....seems to be rather lengthy....or he's a VERY SLOW typist.    :-)

Thanks for posting yet another copy of the same rules that Steve already posted---Which are (in this case) identical between 2019, and 2020...as opposed to your claim that they "changed this year" (except the tire wording---which is not relevant).  

 

17.1 Any fifteen (15.00) inch diameter rim/wheel with a maximum width of seven (7.00) inches, and a

minimum weight of thirteen (13.00) pounds, may be used. All four (4) rims must dimensionally match.
Other than the stock fifteen (15) inch Mazda steel wheels, all wheels must be one piece. (i.e. No multi
piece bolted, riveted, or welded wheels).

...

17.3.3 Aftermarket wheel studs, lug nuts, and wheel spacers are permitted. If spacers are used they

shall be no greater than 13mm in total and equal per axle.

 

It does not say EQUAL PER CORNER or ALL CORNERS MUST BE IDENTICAL.  It says all Wheels must be dimensionally identical...spacers must be identical per axle.

 

A point that Steve already made.  You are certainly earning your "broken record" badge today.  

That’s amazing Tom, good to hear you’ve made productive use of the lockdown!

Thanks, Steve. I don't know that's its amazing... Maybe it is. I'm just stubborn. I'm good at mindless suffering.

Honestly the whole ordeal is a bit of a mind-f#ck. Over the weekend I've been talking to a friend who went through a similar ordeal recently, and relaying my experience and thoughts. I was telling him that Every weird sensation makes me wonder if something is happening, again. Maybe it's a bit of ptsd, I dunno. But, it takes a while to learn to trust your body. Not sure how long cuz, I'm not quite there. I just keep pushing through, though. What else can I do?

Most of my chest is numb-Ish. But, it also has some discomfort and irritation. Apparently, those who have significant acute post-surgical pain, are also likely to have long-term pain. It's a weird combination. Also, overusing and straining the inner chest wall doesn't get "sore" like muscles do, it's more like to feeling of a heart attack. So...yeah, when I overdo yard work and crap... That's my reward.

But, at this point I've had most tests that you can have which have all comfimed that all is good. I've had a 24/7 realtime ecg monitor on since June 1st. That ends on Friday. No problems found.

I will say that if ANYONE wants to talk about their (or a family member's) ordeal I'm available via PM, and will gladly give you my cell. My experience has been that there is precious little info out there about what it's like as a patient. I've read most of what's out there...its not much. Which is kinda weird for the leading cause of death in the US.

Hey there!  Thanks for asking.  Sorry....haven't been around here much lately.  I can't race at the moment for various reasons.  I've been iRacing a fair bit, though.  I've gotten totally carried away spending my racing budget on a sim-rig.  

 

Recovery is going well.  

 

I had the same issue a couple years ago. Turned out to be poor contacts in the fuel pump connector. Used a dental tool to squeeze the socket contacts tighter.

Tom - in follow up, what do you use to gauge set up and adjustment instead of temps? Pressure increase, wear patterns, lap times...

Grrr....most post didn't save.

My name is Tom, two (too).

All of the above. Pressure, pressure increase, wear patterns...especially differences between tires. Not that perfectly even pressure growth is NOT the goal, but if something is wildly different, and I had a handling problem that'd be where I'd start. Lap time rules, though. As Saul has said in other threads...."If flipping a brake pad backwards is faster, well....then do that!" So, faster is as faster does.

So, if you've got a corner that's growing 9psi, and everything else is +6....and you've got a handling problem that's related to that corner...then maybe a change is in order (cross or arb) to take some pressure off that tire.

I've taken to recording my tire pressures on my windshield through the day (hot and cold in different colors). I find it really handy to be able to just stare at the car, and see the patterns in pressures over a day's sessions while trying to decide what to do.

My primary thought as a fellow midpack driver a little closer to the front...

Until you have maximized the data from tire PRESSURE... Temps (esp. Out, mid, in) are silly. As Steve pointed out "temps" require real hot measures,as quick as you can get off track...not AFTER the checker and a cooldown. You have to come in under green from a hot lap.

Also as Steve noted... Those temps are way too cold. You should me closer to 200. If your not at 200 or close the data is useless.

LOL at least everyone agrees- OK, here's a little more info, I'm not sure how I missed all these answers until now.

 

 

Knowing that the goal is closer to 200 degree is to me a big tell that they aren't being pushed hard enough to heat up properly.

 

Pressure will tell you that.  well...pressure GROWTH, anyway.   I don't drive SCCA / Hoho's...but,as I understand hot pressures are roughly similar.  I'd be aiming for 36 (+/- 1 psi depending on the track, the corner of the car, setup, and track conditions) psi hot, and 6-9 psi of growth.  So, a cold pressure of 27-30 psi.    If you can't get 6psi of growth, ether the tires are DONE, or grandma needs to pick up the pace.  

 

If your friend went out at 33 psi and came in at 36 psi (from a hot lap)...I get more growth than that in the rain.  

What ride height?  Also, are you using stock cam bolts?  The Advanced Auto cam bolts have less "slop" between the cam and the "horseshoe", and thus are more "optimized stock".  

 

Also, are you sure you checked the subframe correctly?  I remember when I first got them, it wasn't clear exactly where you were supposed to index the tips to on the subframe.  

 

Third...I have a subframe that is actually shifted left-to-right.  Ie, it passes the subframe checker test because the horseshoe's are the correct distance apart.  But, the entire subframe is "out of square"---the left side bent in, and the right side bent out.  You can check this using a tape measure and checking top-left/bottom-right (and vice-versa) diagonals across the corners of the subframe. Its tricky because you have to pick a symmetrical reference point that you can reliably measure from accurate to less than 1/8".   

 

I've only done this with a rear subframe while it was out of the car.  Not sure if its possible on a front subframe...but, (even if it is) I'm sure it would have to be off the car.

Lot's of good advice here and at least one person has 'been there done that' and likely had a similar issue.  I am still running the Bilsteins and not made the switch as of yet.  When I say perhaps the subframe shifted, I am thinking the lower attachment points where the cams attach was pushed over leaving the tops in place, unlikely but possible.

 

 

Yep. It is possible.  I have a rear subframe like this, on my garage floor right now.  Left side lower mounts moved inboard, rights moved outboard...probably from left-side impact with a K-wall.  It took a little while to figure out what was wrong with it...because the AA checker said everything was "good".  

What’s not obvious is that the AI claims aren’t just marketing BS. The core of what makes this truly different is the camera (which also holds the accelerometers) which must be carefully aligned during setup. That camera supplies a view of the track so the AI can look for the edges of the track surface (think self-driving car tech). As you do your initial laps it uses that input to draw the actual track shape as well as plotting your path on it. Other systems draw your trajectory and may be able to superimpose that on a map or aerial of the track so you can tweak their alignment, but you need to be really careful trusting any representation of your line relative to the pavement. In theory, this learns/draws the track surface and your lateral position on it using the camera, and the GPS provides your progress and speed along that path. With that information the AI knows whether you apex early or late, or miss by 5ft one lap compared to another, etc.

But, it doesn’t know what’s possible until you do it and won’t assume T3 has the same grip as T2, or anything else for that matter. In theory, if you do every lap exactly the same way every time, it will never recommend a change. But nobody does that and those with the most potential to improve do it less. As you do laps it keeps track of what line, what brake points, rate and duration work best then presents that analysis to you in simple live voice prompts during a session and in up to three “Opportunities” for improvement in post-session review. It also provides some consistency stats and their version of theoretical best lap which they call True Optimal lap. The name is easily misconstrued but what makes it different is that the AI works out which fastest segments really can be accomplished in succession and blends them to come up with that best-case lap time and stitches together a video with the segments they have used. Other systems simply add fastest sectors which may not even be achievable as a full lap.

That’s actually a very short and incomplete summary. Watch the videos, read the FB group posts but keep in mind most the people are wrong about a lot so pay attention to the one Garmin guy who sometimes chimes in.

 

That's very interesting.  Been trying to do that the "hard way" via my Racepak system.   It definitely takes a lot of work to deal with the "issues" of achievable segments. 

 

Its been interesting to see how Garmin has manage to cope with the major disruption in what was the core of its commercial business.  They really have pivoted into completely new product lines, and technologies in a way that very few companies manage to do when disruptions happen.

you do not want to be thinking about I need to do X in this turn, focus on the feel and carrying as much corner speed as possible.  Just because it was great yesterday, does not alway indicate it will work today.   Practice trailing, look at your Min corner speeds, but most importantly learn to feel what the car is telling you that particular session   

 

That's Gold right there.  

 

Not that I'm anywhere near the drive that Craig is....

For the Long pedal there is an adjustment for the pushrod / master cylinder clearance.  You can close up the clearance to gain some pedal height.  You must be careful with this adjustment, because it is important that the master cylinder completely retracts when you let off the brake.  So, you want high and "almost" tight.  If its fully tight, then the brake pressure will not completely release after each stroke.  Each subsequent stroke will bulid a little more pressure.  After about a pace lap and two race laps the brakes will be permanently ON and you will think you've completely lost power.  

 

Ask me how I know....

DIY Paint isn't that hard to do...esp for a 50/50 job.  I wouldn't get a cheap HF gun, though.  I looked at them....but, I ended up getting a Devilbis gun for not that much more than the HF options.  Of course you'll need a few extra bits besides just a gun: gun stand, dryers, filters, mixing pots, pressure regulator, fittings, spare nozzles, etc.  I was probably all-in for $300 or so?  

 

The biggest thing to get used to is the speed at which the paint goes down.  Get some cheap paint and practice arm movements on something.  Get good lights, and a light on a stand that you can reposition to help see reflections when spraying.