138 replies to this topic

[trimless]

Richard, I use two old bolts with the head cut off to help align the
transmission.  You can also use all thread cut to proper length as well.
Put in the alignment bolts,  one on each side and rest transmission on
these. Then you can align as needed to stab the input shaft through the
pilot bearing and you are done. 
 

Holy eased tranny swap Batman. That is simply ingenous! Kudos Trimless.

Rick

 

Thanks, but I can't take credit for the idea. I learned the trick hanging around racers that are smarter than me.
 

[fotostars]

Richard, I use two old bolts with the head cut off to help align the
transmission.  You can also use all thread cut to proper length as well.
Put in the alignment bolts,  one on each side and rest transmission on
these. Then you can align as needed to stab the input shaft through the
pilot bearing and you are done.  Pay attention to the angle of the
engine. Once the tranny is pulled the engine will lean forward so you
need to use a support to get it close to where it was to align
everything properly.  Hope that helps.

 

If doing this on your back, it helps to go to the gym and bench press for a few weeks

 

This is brilliant!

And BTW, this is the standard way for mounting 911 wheels. They provide a headless long bold in the jack toolbox so you can have the wheel rest on it and just pivot it to align with the rest of the hub... Why didn't I think of it. All of a sudden, the job feels a lot easier.

 

 

I'll be doing it next week once I get a rebuilt tranny.

[Glenn]

This is brilliant!

And BTW, this is the standard way for mounting 911 wheels. They provide a headless long bold in the jack toolbox so you can have the wheel rest on it and just pivot it to align with the rest of the hub... Why didn't I think of it. All of a sudden, the job feels a lot easier.

 

 

I'll be doing it next week once I get a rebuilt tranny.

Only problem I see it the "chim chims" would either loose the bolts between changes or leave them in place.....or both, LOL....seriously great idea!

[fotostars]

I'm done with the "taking out" part of the job.

As the car was a street car before I turned into a SM, there is still the curly clutch line and the VERY annoying brackets associated with it.

I ordered a replacement SS line to get rid of all the extra junk.

It wasn't a "difficult job" but it took a while because I did have to remove a few bits to get to the top bolts and also take the tranny out.

Also, found a broken spring on the clutch... Replacing all of it.

 

I'm hoping that a 2x4 under the engine to tilt it backward and the trick with guide bolts will make the installation "easier"...

 

stillentwint17? Where are you in the process?

[Glenn]

I'm done with the "taking out" part of the job.

As the car was a street car before I turned into a SM, there is still the curly clutch line and the VERY annoying brackets associated with it.

I ordered a replacement SS line to get rid of all the extra junk.

It wasn't a "difficult job" but it took a while because I did have to remove a few bits to get to the top bolts and also take the tranny out.

Also, found a broken spring on the clutch... Replacing all of it.

 

I'm hoping that a 2x4 under the engine to tilt it backward and the trick with guide bolts will make the installation "easier"...

 

stillentwint17? Where are you in the process?

2x4 should work, bleeding clutch will be the next biggest PIA.   A bit late now but TRICK, get a 24" extension with a 17mm short swivel for top bolts.  They are all accessable from the bottom then

[Randy Thieme]

^{There's a trick to supporting the tail using the shifter hole in the car body.  Get a 18"-36" piece of 2x4 and some stout rope.  Lay the 2x4 across the shifter hole inside the car.  Drop one end of the rope down through the hole, run it under the tranny's tail end, and back up through the hole.  Tighten up the loop to lift the tail and tie it off.  It might take a little adjusting to get the tail the right height. Sometimes the stick likes to walk sideways while your adjusting things so keep an eye on it or use a very long stick.}

 

^{Also, there maybe two hollow pins on the engine side which fit into recesses in the tranny bellhousing.  Not only does the tranny need to be aligned correctly, it also has to be rotated correctly for those pins to slip into the holes.  If the tranny mates up except for one last tiny 1/10" gap that means it probably needs rotating.  On my car I took a 1" drillbit and cut a slight chamfer around the edges of the corresponding holes in the tranny bell housing to make it easier to mate up.  Be very careful and don't cut too big of chamfer or you'll defeat the purpose of the pins.}

[wheel]

Those bolts, with the heads cut off - excellent idea.  I have been struggling with the T-10 in the ASedan for 20 years and never thought of that.  I just bought some long bolts and cut off the heads for the tranny install this weekend.

Thanks

wheel

[stillentwint17]

Hey guys,

 

Sorry for the delay in getting back to everyone. When i tried to access this site yesterday, it was done. As I'm a complete noob at this, and cars in general, I'm pretty far behind. I drained the oil and tranny fluid, removed the exhaust, (all three screws were seized), the drive shaft from the diff, the slave cylinder, the starter and right now I'm about to loosen the PPF screws and tilt the PPF to get access to teh tranny. I placed my smaller jack and a dumbbell, haha,  (2x4 was too long) under the oil pan, near the drain plug. Is that the wrong end? 

 

Im not exactly sure where the block has to go. I still have the underpanel (scratch plate) on so from the pic i was working off, i think its positioned under the front of the oil pan, nearside of the front bumper. Do i need to support the oil pan from the front or can i place the block on the ribbed section, near the drain plug..This is the cross-roads I'm at now. I'm pretty sure i wont be able to get the htranny out tonight so i want to make sure i have the engine supported properly. I took Randy's advice and strapped a 2x4 over the gear box hole and wrapped rope around the rear of the tranny.

 

I'm definetly learning a lot and i really appreciate everyones input. Thanks guys!!

 

I really didnt need to remove the rear main seal but after watching the NASA 25hr video, i just wanted to start taking sht apart to get an understanding for everything. Those guys were switching out motors in like an hr...insane! Awesome.

 

Richard, I cant imagine how much of a PIA putting it all back together is going to be...I'll keep everyone posted.

[fotostars]

Pushing/supporting fron the ribbed section as far front as possible.

I'm actually wondering if I wouldn't have been better off letting the tranny tilt more to the rear (more slack to the rope) to get better access to the bell housing bolts (the top ones in particular from the bottom with a long extension)...

 

BTW, where are you located? As we don't have a separate Pacific Northwest and NorCal subforum, I was wondering if you were in the Bay Area (where I am)...?

[Keith Novak]

I take the coil and CAS off my 1.8 and tilt it back as far as possible.  Beware of advice from 1.6 owners when it comes to many R&R proceedures.  For some reason that extra shot glass of engine displacement reduces clearance in a lot of areas you'd like to tilt things, slide one part out with others still installed or fit your hand to turn a bolt. 

 

I don't do the rope trick any more.  I set my floor jack under the vertical tab on the trans right behind the drain plug.  I can control the tilt of the trans much easier than by adjusting the rope. The tilt of the trans will lean the engine back on the rubber motor mounts.  You can wedge the block of wood between the ribbed part of the oil pan and the sub-frame.  Both are strong enough for the task unless you drop it like a ton of bricks.  Access to the trans bolts takes a little bit of experimentation to figure out which bolt you can reach from which direction and what combination of extensions and universal joints.  This is also one of the big reasons for replacing the curly-Q clutch line and re-routing the wire harness.  Less stuff in the way during the process.

[stillentwint17]

Thanks for the heads up Keith. I read that somewhere and I must try it. Currently i have two jacks holding it up. I didnt think i was able to let the tranny tilt at all. For somereason i assumed that would destory the crank shaft. Allowing it to tilt would definetly help with access to the top screws. I got all the screws loose except for that one 14mm thats impossible to see. After like 30minutes of trying to get it, i had to call it quits. I should have the tranny out tomorrow.

 

When i backed out that 17mm in the top right (PAI one) i didnt realize that my swivel head was pinching that neutral switch cable ( i think thats what it is..) It definetly went through the cable sleeving. Does anyone know if that is just a copper cable that i can just put heat shrink or electrical tape over... If not, yay.....more things to fix.

 

Richard, Yes I'm in the Bay Area, right between San Jose and Campbell. My garage is probably the one where all the cussing is coming from. Now that you mention it, I think i read that you can tilt the tranny until the top qty2 17mm bolts are visible. I had no idea what that process instruction meant until i read your post. While i was doing it, i was petrified to let the tranny move because i thought it would damage it. I even screw the PPF screws back in to help support it (was instructed in instructions i read to do prior to removing bell-housing screws). Hows your tranny coming along. I saw your clutch photos...yikes.. You making any headway??

 

I left my car with a jack under the tranny and an jack under the oil pan...Is that safe over night...Im guessing no. I have 4 more jack stands but none that will go high enough to contact and preload both assemblies.

[stillentwint17]

So i went outside and placed some jackstands with wood under the tranny and engine, but unfortunately, they will only catch if it falls. I was afraid to adjust the preload in the hydraulic jacks as i'm unsure how far the tranny can dip.

 

Keith,

 

For the 2x4.. does the 2x4 span the gap between the sub-frame (from driver side to passenger side) under the oil pan.. or is placed between the oil pan and that bar under the tranny.(held by two nuts under the tranny). Can i remove that stifferning bar or does it stay there when i take the tranny out?

 

Thanks again guys, i really appreciate the input.

[HoneyBadger - BrianW]

The 2x4 goes between the engine and the steering rack, the 2" dimension not the 4". This will keep the motor tilted back enough to remove the tranny bolts and mate the new tranny up to the engine.

 

I don't support the rear of the tranny with anything. Once you have everything loose, just get under the tranny and pull it from the engine (this shouldnt be very hard). Once you have the tranny laying on your chest, just roll to one side and lay it on the ground. Repeat that procedure when sticking the new tranny.

 

DO NOT pull the new tranny up tight with the tranny bolts. Make sure you hear metal to metal clunk when putting the new tranny in. It may require some wiggling, cursing and a bit of manhandling, but it will go.

[stillentwint17]

Thanks for the input Brian. I'll make sure implement the 2x4 approach when i get off work as I'm using all my jacks to hold up the various parts currently. Thanks for the heads up on the tranny installation.

 

Is it easy to remove the speedomoter cable. I'm pretty sure I shredded it last night The screw/universal joint got constrained with the housing wall and pinched the cable when i was loosening the screw...fml.

 

The plan is get the tranny out tonight. I'll probably use a jack or man hanlde it..Not too sure. Most likely I'll use the jack and cradle it while my gf cuts the rope.

 

Does anyone know if i'm to remove that stiffener metal bracket thats directly under the tranny. its head on with 2 M14 nuts i think..

[Glenn]

Thanks for the input Brian. I'll make sure implement the 2x4 approach when i get off work as I'm using all my jacks to hold up the various parts currently. Thanks for the heads up on the tranny installation.

 

Is it easy to remove the speedomoter cable. I'm pretty sure I shredded it last night The screw/universal joint got constrained with the housing wall and pinched the cable when i was loosening the screw...fml.

 

The plan is get the tranny out tonight. I'll probably use a jack or man hanlde it..Not too sure. Most likely I'll use the jack and cradle it while my gf cuts the rope.

 

Does anyone know if i'm to remove that stiffener metal bracket thats directly under the tranny. its head on with 2 M14 nuts i think..

If you havent moved the power plant frame off to the side or out completly you need to do that.  The Z bracket on the back/bottom of the gearbox can stay on but loosten the bolts before reassembly to allow realignment with the PPF.

 

You will PROBABLY be better man handling it out as it will/may take some wiggling, they tend to fall off of a jack since they are not well balanced.  I ASSUME you have the car high enough in the air to get under and lay on your back

[trimless]

I remove that bracket off the tranny before removing.  It tends to catch things on the way in our out, so remove it and reinstall after you have the transmission back in.

[stillentwint17]

Shifter turret should be filled with 80-95 cc of gear oil. Transmission case hold 2.1 quarts.

 

What's a 'Bng'?

Can i use the same oil for both or is the tranny fluid (MT-90) and gear oil (75W90) for the turret two seperate oils? My plan was to use MT-90 Redline for both...Is that ok>

[HoneyBadger - BrianW]

I use a Lucas heavy weight gear oil for the turret. I have used MTL in a pinch but it's probably too light.

[stillentwint17]

Does anyone know if i can wrap a cut (partially open sleeve, wire showing) portion of the speedometer cable of if there are mutiple wires in there, where i could be shorting it out. I damaged the cable when my universal joint backed into it and crush it against the body housing. I have no fluids in the car or tranny or anything so I cant start it to test it. Any advice on how i should go about this?? 

 

Thanks

[fotostars]

Does anyone know if i can wrap a cut (partially open sleeve, wire showing) portion of the speedometer cable of if there are mutiple wires in there, where i could be shorting it out. I damaged the cable when my universal joint backed into it and crush it against the body housing. I have no fluids in the car or tranny or anything so I cant start it to test it. Any advice on how i should go about this?? 

 

Thanks

 

If I'm not mistaken, it's a "mechanical" cable. i.e. it's a physical cable rotating inside a sleeve. No electrical there. So as long as the cable inside is free to rotate, you're ok. If you really damaged it, try to find one from a parts car on Craigslist (That's if you really need your speedo to work).