138 replies to this topic

[stillentwint17]

the tranny wont seperate from the engine. I beat the bejesus out of it and its only opened a crack. Any words of advice. Its getting really annoying

[Glenn]

the tranny wont seperate from the engine. I beat the bejesus out of it and its only opened a crack. Any words of advice. Its getting really annoying

Have you tried a prybar on each side?  You SHOULD be able to walk it off a little on each side with the prybar. Only 1 time before did I see one NOT come out....It was due to a pilot bearing fused to the shaft.  We used an F-550 and JERKED it out.  Silly question, is the shifter out?  Just had to ask....

[stillentwint17]

Finally!!! I finally got the tranny out!! Celebrated with a couple of beer. It was a huge PIA. I litreally laid under it, like i was giving birth, and started pulling it with the ribs on the gear box. Once it cracked open, I just tugged the hell out of it and it came off.

 

Is the pressure plate housing supposed to look like this. All the thick paint cover is coming off. Can this do any damage to the internals? Please see the second photo.

 

 

 

 

[stillentwint17]

Does this pressure plate housing look ok??

[LarryKing]

I've never seen one with the paint peeled like that. Any idea how old it is. More important than the housing is what the face looks like. Is it burnt, scarred, etc...

 

My rule of thumb: is it worth the price of a pressure plate to reuse when I already have the trans dropped and can easily install all new parts.

[Caveman-kwebb99]

^{Maybe everyone doesnt have the funds for all new parts like M&S, not everyone has a dual income...}

 

^{Some of us have to work for a living...}

[Glenn]

Does this pressure plate housing look ok??

No but the reason you had trouble getting out is now obvious......put a SMALL amount of antisieze on the splined shaft when you reinstall!

[Glenn]

I would definatly pull the PP off and look close at the clutch disk and PP and Flywheel surfaces at this point.  Im guessing that there MAY have been some heat issues from a slipping clutch thus the paint failing.  Remember to seal the threads of the flywheel  with ATV if you remove it!

[stillentwint17]

No but the reason you had trouble getting out is now obvious......put a SMALL amount of antisieze on the splined shaft when you reinstall!

Thanks Glen. Does just regular Anti-Seize work? White paste one. I dont need a high temp version...

 

Also, for the RTV, i purchased Permetex Hi-Temp RTV Silicone gasket. Is that sufficent?

[Mark McCallister]

Question, how does one determine how much life the clutch has left when the transmission is out?  Mine looks like the above (without the peeling paint part).

[davew]

The peeling paint is not a problem. Someone probably cleaned the clutch with a strong chemical. You need to look at the wear on the clutch disc and the surface of the pressure plate.

 

Glenn is wrong !!!!! The reason the trans was stuck was not the clutch disc splines. It was the pilot bearing as shown in the second pic. I am 99.999999% sure the pilot bearing is shot and the input shaft may need replacement also. Use a VERY small amount of lubricant on the clutch splines. Hi temp grease works better than anti-seize. Anti-sneeze wears the input shaft.

 

Also fix the oil leak

 

Dave

[stillentwint17]

The peeling paint is not a problem. Someone probably cleaned the clutch with a strong chemical. You need to look at the wear on the clutch disc and the surface of the pressure plate.

 

Glenn is wrong !!!!! The reason the trans was stuck was not the clutch disc splines. It was the pilot bearing as shown in the second pic. I am 99.999999% sure the pilot bearing is shot and the input shaft may need replacement also. Use a VERY small amount of lubricant on the clutch splines. Hi temp grease works better than anti-seize. Anti-sneeze wears the input shaft.

 

Also fix the oil leak

 

Dave

Hi Glen,

 

Thank you for your input. Yah, I'm removing the tranny to switch out the rear main seal, which has been leaking for the last few months. I purchased all the seals i could from Mazda incase its not that seal. I hope to remove the clutch tomorrow, so i will keep you posted on that.

 

 How difficult is it to switch out the input shaft.. Does that mean, i need to get a rebuilt tranny or would i disassemble the tranny and do it myself. I have 3 track events starting a week from monday. I'd greatly appreciate anymore input you have on the matter as im trying to purchase any/all parts i will need to finish over the next day or two.

[Ron Alan]

Rich is correct on the speedo cable...if you need one PM me...in your area. 

 

wire brush/steel wool your input shaft(the rust ring from the pilot bearing) with a little wd40 then see if your new pilot bearing slides over without any issue or sloppiness. Again if you think you need an input shaft PM me. Good luck! 

[Glenn]

The peeling paint is not a problem. Someone probably cleaned the clutch with a strong chemical. You need to look at the wear on the clutch disc and the surface of the pressure plate.

 

Glenn is wrong !!!!! The reason the trans was stuck was not the clutch disc splines. It was the pilot bearing as shown in the second pic. I am 99.999999% sure the pilot bearing is shot and the input shaft may need replacement also. Use a VERY small amount of lubricant on the clutch splines. Hi temp grease works better than anti-seize. Anti-sneeze wears the input shaft.

 

Also fix the oil leak

 

Dave

Thanks Dave, I did not see the pic with the pilot bearing till this AM so I assumed the splines on the shaft were siezed based on teh first set of pics, and I agree 100%.  I will head to your expert advise on the use of anti sieze on my future projects. 

 

Someone else will need to comment on the removal of the input shaft, gearbox internals are "of the devil" and best left to witch doctors like Saul

[davew]

I'd rather rebuild a trans than remove and replace it.

 

To replace the input shaft requires complete disassembly of the trans.

 

Looks like the front of the trans is leaking also.

 

Dave

[stillentwint17]

Hi guys. I cant tell you all enough how much i appreciate your input and guidance. My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Theres been alot going on in the background.

 

So..I spoke with an awesome transmission builder (Barry) and he told me to measure the input shaft, speficially at the "spigot" with a dial indicator. There was less than .0005" variance across 4 points i measured on the shaft so it seems the input shaft is ok. He said anything more than .0015" would mean i needed a new input shaft. To me that means new transmission as thats completyely out of my league. I purchased a new pilot bearing and a bunch of other parts that he told me to from Mazda and i will start removing the tranny cover a bit later today.

 

As of now, i just removed the clutch. I cant tell how the friction plate is as i dont really know what to look for really. Any idea if this is ok. My goal is to determine if the PP is ok or if i need to buy a new one, as i need to get all this car back together next week, and if i need to order any parts, i need to do it asap.

 

[stillentwint17]

Rich is correct on the speedo cable...if you need one PM me...in your area. 

 

wire brush/steel wool your input shaft(the rust ring from the pilot bearing) with a little wd40 then see if your new pilot bearing slides over without any issue or sloppiness. Again if you think you need an input shaft PM me. Good luck! 

Hi Ron,

 

I went ahead and did what you said and I was able to remove all the rust. I checked the OD on the shaft, specifically the spigot, and there was little variance in the OD. Less than .001".

 

I'm making a list of the parts need (destroyed) and I'll PM later tonight after i get the flywheel and rear main seal out.

 

Thanks again!

[stillentwint17]

Hi all,

 

Does this look like a rear main seal leak or an oil pan seal leak???

 

[Bench Racer]

Can't answer that question long distance. A couple things to check before you clean anything. Is the valve cover leaking and draining down the rear of the head and block?  Is the there any leaking from the cam angle sensor?  The CAS is on the passenges rear side of the head at the rear end of the cam. Me not being there I would replace the crank oil seal and the o-ring for the CAS.

 

 

For a comfort level, do you have a knowledgeable car guy friend. An experience someone to look over your shoulder laways makes for a feel good.

[FTodaro]

Question, how does one determine how much life the clutch has left when the transmission is out?  Mine looks like the above (without the peeling paint part).

Inspecting a clutch disk is like inpecting brake pads, they have rivits holding the materail on to the disk, they do not have much material to start with so when the material is just about even with the rivit its time to ptich it. The only exception to what i just said is that if your running an act 4 puck disk, they are made of super hard material and new the have less than a 1/32 of materal and they last forever. It helps to see one new then you get the idea.