65 replies to this topic

[Brandon]

What would the opinion be of four of these zip-tied side-to-side and set under a garage door for exhausting purposes?  Enough airflow to keep you from DFO'ing with a spray-gun in your hand?

 

I've shot a few cars in a garage.  We would "bag" the garage using plastic sheeting like in a Dexter kill room and ventilate using blowers from HF and a porta cool swamp cooler.  You'll have to change the pads on the cooler once you are done though.  I use these blowers (not just for painting but for everything, welding, cooling in the summer, working with solvents) http://www.harborfre...ator-97762.html and this duct http://www.harborfre...duct-97763.html .  Others like Northern have them as well. 

 

Where we would paint the cars has become a full time fab shop so it's a bit dirty and a fair amount of metal shavings no matter how much we clean.  To avoid this when I started working on the Miata again I put an Easy Up outside, tarped the sides, wet the ground a bit and also put down plastic sheeting.  I still used the blowers and the cooler to vent.  I'll finish the interior like this but probably go to a local Maaco we used for my wife's old car who will do a quicky spray on the body for a few hundred as long as I do the prep.  Considering I'd spend $80-100 on material from TCP Global and have to deal with the mess and setup it's worth if for me.  The first couple of hobby stocks were cool but it's kind of a hassle now.

 

This was from a few weeks ago.

 

 

 

[Bench Racer]

I preped/sprayed my car interior/cage. The car was half way into a large paint booth at a friends shop (plating/painting shop) with exhaust air flow up the a$$. Next time even if I need to pay for large area car painting a paint shop will get my $$$ so I don't need to be any part of over come with over spray/fumes.

[dstevens]

What would the opinion be of four of these zip-tied side-to-side and set under a garage door for exhausting purposes?  Enough airflow to keep you from DFO'ing with a spray-gun in your hand?

It would be better than nothing.  During the summer here we burn up those box fans.  For general circulation there are some heavy duty fans in the wire cage I use.  Northern has them on sale every spring for around $50.  For the work I use a commercial quality respirator (instead of a dust mask) glasses, nitrile gloves, full coveralls and old boots. The respirator alone was $40 or so. I still finish all the small things, paint and now powder coat but painting the car is a lot of work.   Another issue for me besides ventilation and space is the lighting.  I shine one of those doulbe headed halogen worklights from the big box home improvement stores on the area that I'm painting.  If you start to do it more you'll want a better gun than the HF or Eastwood cheapy.  The Devilbiss low end guns seem to work pretty well.  For me the issue with the cheap guns was that they leaked and were difficult to clean. They are so cheap though that you can use them as disposable guns and not be out too much money.  For best results get your air as dry as it can be and also have a filter at the gun.  If you don't mind some work you can save a bit of money but if you aren't used to doing it there is a time cost that some find better spent by paying someone.

[wheel]

As to dry air, I use a big Nitrogen tank to paint.  Totally dry and the pressure doesn't change.  Not viable ($$) for lots of painting, but works pretty well for doing the SM or fenders and doors.

[dstevens]

I have an air drop that has a Motorguard M60 on the line to the welding area I installed for the plasma cutter.  Works great with the small inline filters from TCP Global at the gun.  I'd reckon most home shops aren't plumbed for air but you still need to drain your tank regularly, or at least before you paint.  Now that I think about it I haven't drained my tank in a couple of months...

[wheel]

Thanks for the reminder.  I haven't drained my tank for several months.  Gonna do it today.