74 replies to this topic

[wheel]

Now Todd has to do this every time.  Welcome to the jungle.

wheel

[Tom Hampton]

Those look like the Deutsch-DT* connectors.  I do REALLY like those. 

[Todd Lamb]

Thanks to the powers at SCCA for pushing this through quickly. I am just the messenger.

[Dan Tiley]

By the way.... this rule update also applies to the 2001+ cars.  We haven't been able to duplicate it on the dyno, but 2001 cars suffer from an issue where the car will not pop, but instead just shuts down.  These cars use the same exact sensor and connector, but use the signal differently.  On the 2001's, the cam sensor is used to measure intake cam advance, and (I believe) when the signal is lost, the engine shuts down when it loses track of cam timing.  

 

I'll put it at fairly high confidence that issue also goes away with this fix.

[FTodaro]

Nice, so who is going to start mfg the new jumper harness for those of us who are bad at wiring?

[38bfast]

Nice, so who is going to start mfg the new jumper harness for those of us who are bad at wiring?

You Frank, the king of electrons

[Johnny D]

This is great fixing the issue. Just thinking...

 

The cam sensors needs to have the pigtail soldered to the contacts so if it goes bad you need another cam sensor/pigtail wire harness assy to replace it.

The connector to the front wire harness, that the cam sensor wire harness assy mates to needs the same connector, and is a one time deal and shouldn't be replaced going forward.

 

Could the guys(and Ann) thinking of selling the cam sensor wire harness agree on the same connector making it an industry standard so we can purchase from anyone?

I understand we can all do are own thing but is that best?

Maybe, the FPR had different MFG's

J~

[38bfast]

I believe the DT series is the preferred connector if you plan on going down that road. I have had good luck with the OE replacement plugs. we can do it either way. Customer choice.

[NPiekarski]

Fantastic. This will hopefully be a permanent fix for a issue that has caused some grief for many at one time or another. Thanks to all those that pushed this through in such a short time frame.  

[davew]

We did this last week on Tom Brown's car after his Road America aborted start, due to popping. I drove the car at Blackhawk last week and it performed flawlessly. I used a 3 pin weather pack terminal since I have those on the shelf.

 

I considered offering these for sale, but when you think about it, it does not work. Yes I can solder the pigtail and make 1/2 of the car harness connector. But the other 3 pin connector is going to be put on by the end user. Unless you bring the car to me.

 

I agree that a common connector would be helpfull. I vote for weatherpak just because it is available at any auto parts store for cheap money.

 

Whomever is interested, lets work together on a common plug. Dan? Tom? Stu? Jim?

 

dave

[Jim Drago]

By the way.... this rule update also applies to the 2001+ cars.  We haven't been able to duplicate it on the dyno, but 2001 cars suffer from an issue where the car will not pop, but instead just shuts down.  These cars use the same exact sensor and connector, but use the signal differently.  On the 2001's, the cam sensor is used to measure intake cam advance, and (I believe) when the signal is lost, the engine shuts down when it loses track of cam timing.  

I'll put it at fairly high confidence that issue also goes away with this fix.

I agree with this 100% and why I did not run my vvt at the Runoffs last year. The shutting off is kind of a game changer

[Jim Drago]

Whomever is interested, lets work together on a common plug. Dan? Tom? Stu? Jim?
 
dave

I'll use whatever you guys like.. This is what was attached to original letter.

http://www.jegs.com/.../10781/10002/-1

[Todd Lamb]

Yep we are ordering the one Drago listed. Now, which end will be male/female?

[Jamz14]

I hate to complain after receiving something good. And this is a good thing. A couple of things;

 

1. Why wouldn't we go all the way and allow the replacement of any bad connector found on the car? I have a 99 build I am working on and most connectors are brittle and potentially bad.

2. Why is it important to limit the replacement connector to any particular brand or type?

3. Why can't we just move to a real aftermarket racing harness? If the answer is so that we can spot people playing around with the electrical systems; it is my opinion that the factory harness allows this way more easily than a condensed harness. A talented electrical guy could do just about anything he wanted with the rats nest of OEM wiring. If the answer is cost; doesn't cost anything to continue using a functioning OEM harness. Cost an awful lot to try and track down electrical gremlins and bad connectors.

 

Anyway, thank you all who had a hand in getting this done. It is appreciated.

[Tom Sager]

I agree with this 100% and why I did not run my vvt at the Runoffs last year. The shutting off is kind of a game changer

Where's Bench?  This is a torque equalizer. 

[Bench Racer]

Sure, lay it on torque when as a NA 1.8 driver you really want to choke the 99 plus car's rpm.

[Johnny D]

I'll use whatever you guys like.. This is what was attached to original letter.

http://www.jegs.com/.../10781/10002/-1

This is good to hear.
So this connector only connects/plugs in one way correct?
So the connector that's added to the wire harness needs to be clocked correctly/the same for someone else's harness to work, correct?
J~

[Tom Hampton]

I hate to complain after receiving something good. And this is a good thing. A couple of things;

 

1. Why wouldn't we go all the way and allow the replacement of any bad connector found on the car? I have a 99 build I am working on and most connectors are brittle and potentially bad.

2. Why is it important to limit the replacement connector to any particular brand or type?

3. Why can't we just move to a real aftermarket racing harness? If the answer is so that we can spot people playing around with the electrical systems; it is my opinion that the factory harness allows this way more easily than a condensed harness. A talented electrical guy could do just about anything he wanted with the rats nest of OEM wiring. If the answer is cost; doesn't cost anything to continue using a functioning OEM harness. Cost an awful lot to try and track down electrical gremlins and bad connectors.

 

Anyway, thank you all who had a hand in getting this done. It is appreciated.

 

Whoa there big fella!  That sounds way to much like "stop regulating my creativity!"  If you are going to keep talking like that, someone is going to mistake you for being pro Laissez-faire.  Next thing you know, they will revoke your "Crzay Californian card" and exile you to some other, lesser state with similarly absurd ideals.

[Johnny D]

Somebody help me here..

James, I think the rules already state, #1 and 2 are allowed with an OEM/Equivalent like one of the 1st links posted.
J~

[Bench Racer]

When class restrictions hamper one's growth, one could move to a less restrictive class.