74 replies to this topic

[Tom Hampton]

Here's the standard we're using:

 

Deutsch Connector:   http://www.jegs.com/.../10781/10002/-1

 

 

 

NOTE: I prefer solid pins to stamped pins in rugged applications, or any application that includes regular connect/disconnect cycles, and all applications where signal integrity is critical to system performance.  Typically stamped pins/sockets are only rated for ~10 insertion cycles.  Nickel plated is fine, but gold plated is also preferable in more corrosive environments. 

[Johnny D]

NOTE: I prefer solid pins to stamped pins in rugged applications, or any application that includes regular connect/disconnect cycles, and all applications where signal integrity is critical to system performance.  Typically stamped pins/sockets are only rated for ~10 insertion cycles.  Nickel plated is fine, but gold plated is also preferable in more corrosive environments.

How many times an event do you change your cam sensor ?

For electronic I'm in the camp, if it works don't screw with it.
J~

[Tom Hampton]

How many times an event do you change your cam sensor ?

For electronic I'm in the camp, if it works don't screw with it.
J~

One end of that connector is permanently attached to your harness.  So, every engine pull results in another cycle. 

 

Its probably "fine" and likely won't be a problem for a long time.  The stamped pins actually cost $0.24 more per connector kit (DT3-Kit) from prowireusa ($5.97 vs. $5.73). 

 

But, I don't care what you do with the information. 

[Johnny D]

The rule is open on the connector.
Do what you feel is best.
J~

[Juan Pineda]

Why use any connector at all? I'm thinking the best and easiest solution would be to just connect the pigtail on the modified sensor directly to the wiring harness using crimp barrels. To pull the engine you need to unscrew the 10mm bolt on the sensor, so the sensor stays with the harness.

[Cnj]

One end of that connector is permanently attached to your harness.  So, every engine pull results in another cycle. 
 
Its probably "fine" and likely won't be a problem for a long time.  The stamped pins actually cost $0.24 more per connector kit (DT3-Kit) from prowireusa ($5.97 vs. $5.73). 
 
But, I don't care what you do with the information.

Tom has it right regarding the connectors.
Not that he was sitting around waiting for my affirmation

CNJ

[Tom Hampton]

Tom has it right regarding the connectors.
Not that he was sitting around waiting for my affirmation

CNJ

 

I might have been....you never know!  But, thank goodness I wasn't holding my breath...

[Keith Andrews]

Why use any connector at all? I'm thinking the best and easiest solution would be to just connect the pigtail on the modified sensor directly to the wiring harness using crimp barrels. To pull the engine you need to unscrew the 10mm bolt on the sensor, so the sensor stays with the harness.

 

If you actually have a cam sensor go bad, what is the easiest change out for you?  I'm not big on crimping but if you make up a spare sensor with a pigtail that you can crimp you'll be good to go.

[Juan Pineda]

If you actually have a cam sensor go bad, what is the easiest change out for you?  I'm not big on crimping but if you make up a spare sensor with a pigtail that you can crimp you'll be good to go.

 

Yes, exactly, just splice a new sensor in. I think the greater likelihood of failure is the a bad connector, not a bad sensor. Probably all the 99 sensors that have been accused of being bad have actually failed due to the connector.

[Juan Pineda]

BTW, it's really really important to epoxy around the soldered pins and up maybe 1/4-1/2" past the solder. The reason is that the solder will make the wire brittle, and it will fatigue easily, resulting in bad electrical connections -- exactly what you were trying to avoid! The epoxy will hold the wire stationary where the solder has wicked up into the strands.

[Tom Hampton]

Yes, exactly, just splice a new sensor in. I think the greater likelihood of failure is the a bad connector, not a bad sensor. Probably all the 99 sensors that have been accused of being bad have actually failed due to the connector.

 

That has more to do with a bad connector application rather than a bad connector.  The stock connector was never designed for the life it lives in a racecar.  Thise pins/sockets are designed around a few insertion cycles---a life which was used up before it ever even thought of being a racecar.  The worst connectors I see are the simple splice connectors, they seem to fail more often than just about anything else. 

 

The Deutsch connectors listed above, particularly the ones with the SOLID pins are a "real" properly designed long-life connector---with well over 50 insertion cycle life (in practice much more than that).  Frankly, outside of a full-military grade type of connector they are the best out there.  And for the $6 each, just can't be beat. 

 

BTW, it's really really important to epoxy around the soldered pins and up maybe 1/4-1/2" past the solder. The reason is that the solder will make the wire brittle, and it will fatigue easily, resulting in bad electrical connections -- exactly what you were trying to avoid! The epoxy will hold the wire stationary where the solder has wicked up into the strands.

 

DO NOT SOLDER CRIMP PINS.  This is just about the worst advice I see people give.  Its a shitty workaround for a shitty connector.  it causes all of the issues above, as well as some others.   Epoxying those pins is second on the list.  Only specially designed connectors and pins should ever be potted.  Do, you have any idea how many failed epoxied/potted connectors I've seen in 20+ years of designing industrial, aviation, and military products?  Yeah, me either.  The epoxy can wick up into the pins (particularly those crappy stamped pins I mentioned above) and prevent the pins from making contact. 

 

If you are worried about crimp pins pulling out, then buy better connectors, with better pins (solid pins), and a decent freaking crimper: 8-detent style if supported by your chosen connector (Deutsch supports an 8-way crimper for the solid pins).  

 

To make it simple, buy the Deutsch connectors, use the solid pins (in many cases they are cheaper than the stamped ones), and use a good crimper.  The official Deutsch 8-way crimper is $265.  I saw a knock-off on amazon for $165. 

 

I don't really care what any one person does, but I don't like bad advice being doled out based on bad facts. 

[Juan Pineda]

Hey Tom,

 

Thanks for writing!

 

1) How are you suggesting connecting the pigtail wire to the sensor if not by Solder? My understanding is that this is the workaround to delete the failing connector.

 

2) If you are soldering the sensor pins to wires, you need some potting for strain relief. What type of potting material do you prefer if not epoxy?

 

3) To be clear I am not advocating soldering crimp connectors. I always tell people _not_ to do that. (Perhaps you misunderstood.)

 

4) And to make sure we are on the same page, I am advocating NO connectors at all here. No splice connectors, no Deutsch connectors, just straight wire. The sensor is permanently attached to the wiring harness.

 

Thanks!

-Juan

[Johnny D]

Have you read the thread Juan ?

Have you looked at post 46 band 53 ??

J~

[Juan Pineda]

Hey Johnny, Thanks for the reply! I did indeed read the thread and posts 46 and 53. I don't want to belabor the point. However I don't want to be misunderstood and it seems that perhaps that's still the case. So I will restate what I'm advocating and hopefully clarify any misunderstanding:

 

1) Prepare a CAS sensor with pigtail as proposed here, except no connector. Just wires.

 

2) Hard wire that pigtail to your factory harness using standard crimp barrels. No soldering involved.

 

3) Replacement at the track? Obtain a spare pigtail prepared CAS from your stock or buddy, cut off any connector, and hard wire to the factory harness as in 2.

 

4) Engine pull? Undo 10mm bolt.

 

Betting on the odds. This hardwire (non-solder) connection is more reliable than a connector.

 

Thanks for reading!

-Juan

[Tom Hampton]

Juan-

 

Sorry for the delay.  I was swamped with race-prep last week, and the subsequent race over the weekend. 

 

In general, yes I misunderstood you.  Sorry about that. 

 

A couple of points though: 

1.  Epoxy makes a poor strain relief, as do any hard materials.  Any hard material like standard epoxy actual does the opposite of providing strain relief.  Silicone is better, but also not great.  Honestly, if I were going to "do it right", I'd use RT125 and either adhesive lined heat-shrink or an adhesive lined boot.  RT125 is a flexible epoxy.  And I'd heatshrink the entire pigtail with DR-25.  If I wanted to get "close" I'd heat shrink each solder joint with 1-2", and build up a silicone "boot" 1/2" tall, or so. 

 

2.  I HATE standard crimp barrels.  They are the least reliable "connectors" on the planet.  The Deutsch connector will be significantly more reliable than three auto parts store barrel crimps.  Ugh.  horrible, horrible things.  If you insist on using this approach, at least use a good barrel crimp with a good crimper.  Duraseal splices have an adhesive lined heatshrink outer layer that provides strain relief and seals the joint from the elements. 

 

Adax posted an excellent link to racecar wiring tips, here:  www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html

 

Everything mentioned above can be purchased at prowireusa.com for reasonable sums of money.