825 replies to this topic

[Jim Drago]

Ha!  I am hoping for a good finish, but that's not a realistic expectation, unfortunately.  Odds are stacked against me.  Ideally I would have time to get the car out to a test n tune before an event, plus I'd run a regional and not a majors for a first event.  Additionally, I haven't been on track since October, so will be rusty.  I've actually never driven a spec miata before either.  And I've never been to Pitt Race before.  And I've no idea yet if my motor will even make any hp.  Slim chances for a top finish!

isnt this the normal for all of us, every weekend? it sure seems like it at times. I am racing NASA memphis tomorrow with three toyos and one wagon wheel in a car we hadnt started until about 15 minutes ago?

[DrDomm]

 

Just registered for Pitt Race Majors, plus the test n tune day.  Ouch, that was expensive.  $815 just in entry fees for a three day weekend.  But, now I've got some extra motivation to get the car done in time    Can't wait!
 
14 SM registered so far. 
https://www.motorspo...29C57BF327280C#.

Ayers, Todd	   1999	OH
Campbell, Charlie  1999	PA
Ciufo, Chris	   1990	NY
Ciufo, David	   1999	NY
Fetch, Brandon	   1996	NJ
Henson II, James   1992	OH
Kicera, Tyler	   2002	PA
Kicera, Vic	   2001	PA
Kohler, Jason	   1999	MI
Lattanzio, Michael 1999	PA
MacDonald, Robert  1999	OH
Metz, Dave	   1999	OH
Orton, Eric	   1999	PA
Todaro, Frank	   2000	OH

 

I really wanted to do this race, but I'm "on-call"...grrr!  Have fun!

[speedengineer]

Lot's of stuff lately that I've been working on, but not taking the time to post about.  Priorities.  However, I wanted to share this method for how to utilize the factory clock spring with NRG quick release so you can have a PTT button for your radio, without the silly stretchy cord hanging off the steering wheel.

 

Want:  Push to talk button on steering wheel

Problem:  Steering wheel comes off, thus you're stuck with a stupid stretchy cable for PTT wiring

Solution:  Use the OEM clock spring!

 

First thing you'll notice when you try to install your quick release hub (at least the NRG hub) is that it won't fit with the clock spring in place.  So, you have to modify the mounting for it a bit.  A few minutes with a dremel is all.

 

Original:

 

The three mounting bosses recessed to locate the clock spring farther forward when installed (sorry a bit blury):

 

Clock spring installed:

 

NRG hub installed.  Run the wires from the airbag wire though the NRG hub.  You could alternatively use the horn wire if you wanted the horn to function instead of installing a PTT button.  That's what I had on my last car. 

 

Quick release adapter is installed onto the hub.  Note the two brass contact terminals:

 

The two brass contacts in previous photo contact these two on the mating side of the NRG quick release:

 

Buttoned up:

 

I'm not installing the PTT yet, don't have a radio yet.  But I'll modify one of the steering wheel spacers or hub so that the wires come out on the backside of the steering wheel, not out the front horn hole.  That will be the cleanest install option.  I'll be testing different spacers to get my seating distance to the steering wheel correct, so I've yet to install all 6 M5x0.8 flathead fasteners in the wheel, nor the center cover.

 

 

In other news, fuel pressure regulator is installed:

 

Rear package shelf and kill switch and all kill switch wiring is completed:

[Duncan]

If you build another car you can save yourself some work.  An old school Honda clock spring (really just a sprung tab that contacts the NRG ring on the back of the hub) fits perfectly in one of the factory bolts and even has a spade connector for easy integration into a wiring harness.

 

Duncan

Lot's of stuff lately that I've been working on, but not taking the time to post about.  Priorities.  However, I wanted to share this method for how to utilize the factory clock spring with NRG quick release so you can have a PTT button for your radio, without the silly stretchy cord hanging off the steering wheel.

 

 

 

[LarryKing]

I'm concerned. The tan dash trim clashes with the interior scheme. May we assume a remedy is coming?

[JRHille]

That's what I have been telling him all along but noooooo

[Bench Racer]

Come on guys, the red on the shut off switch matches the cage color.

[speedengineer]

If you're not a fan of the tan
you had best give rest.
Tan will look real fast as I'm sailing past
to steal the win from your base trim
black dashed and failing SM.

 

 

 

Best I could come up with in 15 minutes...

[Jim Drago]

I'm concerned. The tan dash trim clashes with the interior scheme. May we assume a remedy is coming?

I concur!

[Erik Hardy]

I think you should stick with graphs. Poems and color choices are not your strong suit. Get the car done.

If you're not a fan of the tan
you had best give rest.
Tan will look real fast as I'm sailing past
to steal the win from your base trim
black dashed and failing SM
 
 
 
Best I could come up with in 15 minutes...

[LarryKing]

JC has got you covered
http://www.jcwhitney...s/p2012166.jcwx

[FTodaro]

If he worked as much as he typed he would be on Car 2 already.

 

Are you bringing this piece to Pit race?

[speedengineer]

I concur!

 

Jim, I've been waiting for that black dash you were donating to me, but it hasn't shown up yet.  Do you have a tracking number or something? 

 

 

 

If he worked as much as he typed he would be on Car 2 already.

 

Are you bringing this piece to Pit race?

 

Yes frank, this piece will make it's debut at Pitt Race.  I think.  Pretty sure.  Probably?

[speedengineer]

Engine, trans, and diff are installed.  yay! 

 

 

 

 

 

Still about ~50 hours worth of work to have a race ready SM though. 

 

Install seat, harness, roll bar padding, mirror, fire extinguisher

Install door latches, pull/release cables, hook up power mirrors

Install oil pressure sensor, wideband

Fab exhaust

Fab battery tray

Fab aluminum block off covers behind where stock seat belts attached

Fill diff, trans, engine with oil.  Engine water,.  Brake fluid and clutch fluid fill and bleed

Set ride height, alignment

Wash, apply all vinyl decals

Install front bumper cover, radiator rock screen, lower lip

Adjust steering wheel spacers for ergonomics, gas pedal extension for heel toe, Al tread plate for floor

Install transponder

Fab and install ballast

And proly a bunch more stuff I'm not thinking of at the moment.

 

 

 

Side note, I installed the alternate mazdacomp motor mounts that the rules allow for.  Interesting to note that they are not the same geometry as stock mounts.  Looks like the actually raise the engine up a quarter inch or so.  hmm.  Maybe they just settle with time?

[Bench Racer]

Your doing great, now off to the Farm for the Majors.

[speedengineer]

So, got all the fluids in the car over the weekend, fabricated my exhaust, and started the engine up. Runs and sounds normal, so that's good!

 

 

Couple of questions or concerns though, if anyone has some input it will be much appreciated!

 

1)  Do the 99 cars not prime the fuel pump on key-on?  Google says they don't, but I'm not sure I believe it.  My vtt street car does prime for a couple seconds, this 99 doesn't at all.  The pump makes pressure great when cranking or running, or when jumping the diagnostic port.  Looking at the wiring diagrams, it appears the fuel pump relay is controlled only by a single wire to the ECU, so the ECU has to be responsible for the key-on prime functionality.  Not sure how the diagnostic port ties into the fuel pump relay though.  Thoughts?

 

2)  How long does the fuel system typically hold pressure after engine off on most cars?  Mine only holds pressure for several seconds, and I don't have any fuel leaks.  Is this normal, or do I need to look at it further?  When it does bleed down, does it go all the way down to zero psi?

 

The combined lack of holding fuel pressure plus no pump prime with key-on means long crank times until the engine starts, so something has to be wrong.

 

3)  Normal for the idle air control valve to have a slight hum/buzz with engine off and key-on?  Can't hear with engine running, but very noticeable with engine off in a quiet garage.  Don't remember this on my last car.  Tried another IAC valve, no difference. 

[Jim Drago]

The fuel deal IMO is weak pump.. When I have a good pump in the car it hardly bleeds down at all. A tired one bleeds down quickly as you describe. Bennett cut one open a fuel years ago and did a thread on it somewhere. He didnt believe the pressure hold correlated with pump going.  IMO , it always seems to follow.

 

If you are starting with a used pump, I think that is a bad decision. They are a common fail issue and hate to save $100 to only burn the engine down.

 

Jim

[Bench Racer]

By Saul Speedwell aka Mark Bennett.

 

[Brycewantsaspecmiata]

Hey, I am trying to get in to Spec Miata racing, anything I need to know or any advice?

[FTodaro]

Why are you running the AC fan?

 

Are you comparing a new MM to an Old MM that may account for some change over a 15 years.