825 replies to this topic

[speedengineer]

Well Jason you have out done me. My cages and interiors are always the same color, light gray. I did one car with a different color cage and said to myself "we are never going to do that again".

 

Yeah it's kind of a pain.  Certainly adds a few days to the painting process.  I think it was worth the trouble though!

 

 

 

[Jim Drago]

Well Jason you have out done me. My cages and interiors are always the same color, light gray. I did one car with a different color cage and said to myself "we are never going to do that again".

It looks nice and I have done a few that way. it adds another complete day It is not fun, but looks nice. 

 

 

Jason, car shaping up nice!

Jim

[speedengineer]

Ok, better photos, now that the masking tape and plastic have been removed.  The paint will have to cure for several days before I start reinstalling interior parts, otherwise there is risk that I'll damage it walking around in there, etc.  In the meantime, I've started assembling the cylinder head, and I have several other little projects that will take up my time while the paint cures. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jim Drago]

very nice! your starting to get the bling of a just a bit over 15k build

[Tom Hampton]

Glossy paint is good for -0.5 sec per lap, cage color different from interior is another -0.5 sec, and red is always worth another -0.2 sec.

[Mark McCallister]

Looking very nice!

 

So I have a question, for this sort of tub-up build, how do you keep track of exactly where all the bits and pieces, particularly hardware - go?  I usually try to put hardware back on after I take something apart so it's right there in the right place when I go to reassemble, or worst case baggie-and-post-it-note, but if you're painting the tub like this much of the fasteners needs to come off.  Do you try to keep track of what hardware goes with what during disassembly or do you just use all new hardware and use whatever fits to your liking, regardless of what was there from the factory?

 

I'm sure guys who do this for a living have it all committed to memory, but for folks who might do 2-3 of these ever, what's the best approach? 

[speedengineer]

Looking very nice!

 

So I have a question, for this sort of tub-up build, how do you keep track of exactly where all the bits and pieces, particularly hardware - go?  I usually try to put hardware back on after I take something apart so it's right there in the right place when I go to reassemble, or worst case baggie-and-post-it-note, but if you're painting the tub like this much of the fasteners needs to come off.  Do you try to keep track of what hardware goes with what during disassembly or do you just use all new hardware and use whatever fits to your liking, regardless of what was there from the factory?

 

I'm sure guys who do this for a living have it all committed to memory, but for folks who might do 2-3 of these ever, what's the best approach? 

 

Thanks. 

 

I'm sure everyone has their own system.  As far as parts go, I don't have any trouble keeping track via memory of where to reinstall them.  If needed, I always have plenty of photos to help jog the memory.  For fasteners, if they are generic 6mm bolts or nuts, I just throw them all in a bin, and when reinstalling, grab one of the appropriate length and head flange size.  If the part attaches with more specific bolts, I keep them with the part.  For example, prop shaft flange bolts, you can re-install them finger tight on the flange so you don't lose them.  same with subframe brace bolts, suspension bolts, etc. 

 

Side note:  The bolts for attaching the front subframe brace are the same diameter and length as those for attaching the rear subframe brace to the chassis.  But, they are not the same thread pitch!!  Found that out last year when I stripped out one of the internal weld nuts on the chassis for the rear brace when I tried to install a front bolt by accident.  Won't be doing that mistake again, was a huge pain to fix properly.

[Jamz14]

Looking very nice!

 

So I have a question, for this sort of tub-up build, how do you keep track of exactly where all the bits and pieces, particularly hardware - go?  I usually try to put hardware back on after I take something apart so it's right there in the right place when I go to reassemble, or worst case baggie-and-post-it-note, but if you're painting the tub like this much of the fasteners needs to come off.  Do you try to keep track of what hardware goes with what during disassembly or do you just use all new hardware and use whatever fits to your liking, regardless of what was there from the factory?

 

I'm sure guys who do this for a living have it all committed to memory, but for folks who might do 2-3 of these ever, what's the best approach? 

Just finished my second build. I use plastic tubs. I throw the parts in and either loosely screw the fasteners to the part or, I start the build with a new bag of baggies and mark the baggie with where those fasteners belong. I usually end up with a container of common fasteners like Jason for things I won't be reattaching.

[Tom Hampton]

Just finished my second build. I use plastic tubs. I throw the parts in and either loosely screw the fasteners to the part or, I start the build with a new bag of baggies and mark the baggie with where those fasteners belong. I usually end up with a container of common fasteners like Jason for things I won't be reattaching.

 
^^^This.  I've only done one Miata built, but I've done a few non-Miata builds in my life.  Whenever possible, I attach the fastener to the part it fastens...either threaded or taped in place.  In cases where there are a large quantity of the same fastener (like all those short Phillips screws for nearly everything in the interior), I'll put them in a baggie and tape the baggie to the part (dash, package tray panels, etc.). 
 
Honestly, the Miata is so simple though...the baggie method seems like overkill (Sometimes it seems like the thing is put together with a total of 4 different bolts/fasteners).  If I'm just removing a subassembly for a few hours or days, I'll put those bolts/nuts into a divided clear plastic tackle box...mostly so they don't get lost between removal and installation.   I use those cheap tackle box divided containers a lot these days, I've got about 20 in the shop just for those temporary jobs. 

[davew]

I have a big blue tub through everything in the tube, then practice soccer for 3 laps around the shop. If tub tips over, I can stop early.

 

Then I give the tub to the boyz and make them put it together.

 

Works for me ...........

[Tom Hampton]

I have a big blue tub through everything in the tube, then practice soccer for 3 laps around the shop. If tub tips over, I can stop early.
 
Then I give the tub to the boyz and make them put it together.
 
Works for me ...........

Some shops don't even use a tub.

[FTodaro]

Jason showed me the plans for the 8 track tape player he is putting in there, just to keep his cost in line.

[dstevens]

On the cars I've built/worked on I got into the habit of replacing all non speciality fasteners and any specialty fasteners that couldn't be cleaned up.  The only thing I've found on the Miata is that some of the same sized fasteners used different wrench sizes  (the heads were a bit larger on the non Mazda hardware so instead of a 12 mm wrench it was a 13 mm wrench).

 

On the Miata I kept the PPF fasteners but have replaced most all of the others.  There were a few I couldn't find due to pitches that aren't widely available here and used parts from Mazdaspeed.  Suspension, brake and steering hardware get replaced regardless, just of piece of mind.   I got in the habit of buying a variety of spare fasteners from karting where some of the fasteners are difficult to get at an auto parts or home improvement store.  I take the old fasteners that aren't too trashed and put them in an Acro bin in case I need something later.  I've still got fasteners and brackets from the first hobby stock I built.

 

If you aren't sure what goes where, bag it, label it and snap a pic and put it in a tub for later.

 

A couple of good tools to have are bolt diameter gauge and a thread pitch gauge.

[speedengineer]

Jason showed me the plans for the 8 track tape player he is putting in there, just to keep his cost in line.

 

Haha!  On second thought though, those might be getting expensive these days as antique collector items.  I may need to go for cassette as the cheaper option.  Actually, I've never even seen an 8-track...

[wreckerboy]

Glossy paint is good for -0.5 sec per lap, cage color different from interior is another -0.5 sec, and red is always worth another -0.2 sec.

... as all the 1.6 guys run out to get paint. I didn't lose, I got out painted!


(In before the paint parity threads begin)

[speedengineer]

So, what's everyone do for fender liners?  Leave installed, or remove? 

 

Removed, the car is easier to work on without a bunch of plastic in the way.  But I've also noticed that when rocks fly up and hit the inside of the fender, it leaves small ding marks that can be seen outside in the paint. 

 

Also, any aero performance difference?  Curious if anyone took a look at the front cars at Daytona last fall and noticed if they were running their fender liners, and is willing to share?

[speedengineer]

Also, the brand new RaceTech 4119 is still for sale if anybody is interested. 

http://mazdaracers.c...seat-brand-new/

 

[Jamz14]

So, what's everyone do for fender liners?  Leave installed, or remove? 

 

Removed, the car is easier to work on without a bunch of plastic in the way.  But I've also noticed that when rocks fly up and hit the inside of the fender, it leaves small ding marks that can be seen outside in the paint. 

 

Also, any aero performance difference?  Curious if anyone took a look at the front cars at Daytona last fall and noticed if they were running their fender liners, and is willing to share?

Jason,

 

On the new 99 build I have kept the rear fender liners and removed the front.

[Bench Racer]

If you did a search, Saul (aka Mark Bennett) tested and reported.

[Ron Alan]

I found one downside to no fender liners on an endurance car. I had at least 5 lbs of rubber and mud packed behind the headlights after the 25HR race this year