When you talk about the Willwood bearing failure are you referring to their tappered roller bearings or their ball bearings?
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we have used the Mazda Roller Bearings in the turbo car for the past 12 race weekends no failures. The crazy maintenance sucked, but no failures. 225 45 15 A7. They redesigned the locking mechanism and now it as easy to use at as any OEM bearing. Use the stock nut and no more maintenance. According to Josh and Mazda they have a full season of the new type, no maintenance and zero failures. The new system is slick and even I can do it. #worththeinvestment!
I know that the Mazda has done a revamp on their hubs that were "not user friendly" (torquing process, etc.). They are currently going to be tested at the 25-Hour. It'll be interesting to see the result.
We are testing the new fix as well. 3 weekends and 3 test days on them and so far so good. Not conclusive but off to a good start.
I’ve inspected some of our failed bearings and been unable to conclusively determine whether ball or race failed first but the experience of others makes me suspect the race is more common.
Manufacturing process may indicate the outer races case hardening would be the first to fail over the inner races or balls, correct.
I have wondered(because I have not yet had enough free time to devote to really getting deep into it), what is happening when a bearing loosens up "just a little", with no noise. When disassembled showed no pitting/brinelling or damaged bearings(although never had them looked at under a scope or comparitor. I would clean them up, take .0015 to .002 off on a surface grinder and run it until I "timed it out" with no issues. I keep wanting to take the hubs to a buddy's place to have them magged when I am servicing them, but I am usually in a rush to get the car back together for the next event.
Ralph, have you measured the track on the car with the Miatahubs and 25mm offset wheels? Its looks like those hubs would make the track about 1mm-2mm too wide
Track is identical. Offset is the same. If it wasn't the calipers wouldn't fit. Caliper to rotor offset is same as stock.
Jim, you said,
"Until we see a failure"........is that just getting loose, actual disassembly and inspection , the wheel/hub coming off the car or_______________ ?
Your input is appreciated.
Start getting loose.. They are junk after that
East Street Auto Parts
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I just read through these 7 pages and realized that I learned almost nothing.
FWIW, Moog (36 mths), Raybestos (lifetime) and SKF (36 mths) offer min 3 year warranties - not that you'll cash in on it, but perhaps their quality is a little better.
The only "retail" ones that are priced outside of "normal" are these Altrom branded NAPA ones (2121306 for NB's) retail for $~300 per side. Anyone dissect those?
I did talk to someone recently who buys these $100 per side (brand unimportant) and tosses them each weekend.
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