#101
Posted 03-30-2012 09:48 PM
#102
Posted 03-31-2012 09:55 AM
#103
Posted 03-31-2012 11:37 PM
Alberto and I got some more work done on the car today. Got the SD radiator in (though I see I forgot to take a picture) after drilling a new set of holes in the mounts so it would line up with the hooks on the frame. Guess all of those complaints about the fitment of these radiators were true Easy enough once we got everything all lined up. The factor lower radiator hose fits great, the upper radiator hose is a bit short, so you'll need a longer hose for the top in addition to the longer overflow tube.
#104
Posted 03-31-2012 11:56 PM
Following the coolant fixing, we set in on getting the dash reassembled. Previously, I'd put some new boots on the shifter, since the originals had long since disintegrated:
After much hacksawing, tinsnipping, and wishing we had a cutting wheel for the dremel tool, we had the dash cut around the roll cage and back in! (still might need a little plastic adjustment to get fully seated)
Kinda starting to look like a car again.
#105
Posted 04-01-2012 12:03 AM
Even with the padding pulled out of the bottom I still don't have enough clearance on top for my helmet (and for not hitting the roll cage bar on the left). Not sure there's enough material left on the seat mount to move it sufficiently, so I might take everything back to Tony once it's all together and have him help me get it set correctly.
I also started to install the center net; where do you guys pass the straps through the dash? Cut a slot through the center of the eyeball vents perhaps?
#106
Posted 04-01-2012 08:46 PM
Ron
RAmotorsports
#107
Posted 04-01-2012 10:20 PM
I also started to install the center net; where do you guys pass the straps through the dash? Cut a slot through the center of the eyeball vents perhaps?
TC installed mine along with the seat when he did my cage. That plastic ducting behind the vent opening has been removed on my car and the strap passes through the opening closest to the driver connecting it to the dash bar. At least I think it is connected to the dash bar since I never looked at it that closely.
However, as Ron mentioned, you technically don't need it per SCCA rules on a halo seat.
#108
Posted 04-02-2012 06:39 PM
Austin, with the Halo seat you don't need the center net for NASA...and of course it isn't required in SCCA. But if for yourself and more safety cool!
Yep, just for a little additional safety!
#109
Posted 04-08-2012 04:40 PM
(Here's the SD radiator, all hooked up and leak free)
The new undertray looks way too clean:
I've read a bunch of differing opinions on transponder placement, I'm considering the LF wheel well, though may go for the a rear-mounted location:
#110
Posted 04-08-2012 04:43 PM
Back from a lap around the block, I didn't even knock off any of the extensions I'd forgotten were resting on the hood ledges!
#111
Posted 04-08-2012 04:44 PM
#112
Posted 04-17-2012 06:40 PM
#113
Posted 04-17-2012 06:51 PM
#114
Posted 04-18-2012 08:34 AM
#115
Posted 04-18-2012 03:47 PM
I got my calipers in the mail yesterday as well, so this weekend I'll be replacing the brake hydraulic system (master brake cylinder, steel lines, calipers), finishing up the wiring (kill switch and transponder), apply cheaty go-fast-parts (stickers and decals), getting my tires mounted to my wheels, and installing my LC-1 AFR gauge.
I suppose I should install the competition motor mounts that I got this week too; you can get to those without having to pull the engine, right? Just support it with a hoist and unbolt from the block?
#116
Posted 04-19-2012 12:55 AM
Thanks guys! $300 well spent.
I got my calipers in the mail yesterday as well, so this weekend I'll be replacing the brake hydraulic system (master brake cylinder, steel lines, calipers), finishing up the wiring (kill switch and transponder), apply cheaty go-fast-parts (stickers and decals), getting my tires mounted to my wheels, and installing my LC-1 AFR gauge.
I suppose I should install the competition motor mounts that I got this week too; you can get to those without having to pull the engine, right? Just support it with a hoist and unbolt from the block?
You can use a jack under the flat, front part of the trans (behind the engine oil pan) to lift the motor an inch. Don't really need much lift to replace them.
Did you weld the SD exhaust together? I understand they tend to fall off if you don't.
#117
Posted 04-19-2012 01:02 AM
Did you weld the SD exhaust together? I understand they tend to fall off if you don't.
I'm going to have TC weld that for me next week while they're fabbing the muffler and flange.
#118
Posted 04-19-2012 01:06 AM
btw, I just talked to Brandon. Book your hotel if you haven't already. Seems like there is something going on in Monterey and hotels have gotten pricey w/ limited availability.
#119
Posted 04-19-2012 01:12 AM
Cool.
btw, I just talked to Brandon. Book your hotel if you haven't already. Seems like there is something going on in Monterey and hotels have gotten pricey w/ limited availability.
I'm going to camp at the track (or at least this is the operating plan).
#120
Posted 04-24-2012 01:51 AM
Over the weekend, I got the new calipers on, the exhaust straightened out (going to have that central part welded tomorrow), and most of the interior sorted. Plus...decals!
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: build, na, scca, construction, 1991, 1.6L
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