#61
Posted 12-14-2011 04:13 PM
Looks like very few oil changes in it prior life.
#62
Posted 12-28-2011 11:21 PM
I also test fit myself in my seat with helmet on and discovered I'm about a inch short on headroom (not to mention being a little too close to the roll cage bar for comfort). The bottom of the seat is already just about on the floorpan, so I suppose I can move it forward a bit and tilt it back more...stupid tallness. Any suggestions?
I'm enjoying this build thread. Just about ready to get into this myself.
Regarding the seating problem, can you lower the mount or the actual floor itself.
Do you have a picture of the seat area without the seat installed?
KT
Let me set your tile!~ http://www.willstile.com
#63
Posted 02-05-2012 11:51 PM
Looks like my plastic guard under the engine bay is cracked, nothing a little tape won't fix until I grab another one.
Taking the front struts out was easy once I learned the proper procedure: sway bar links off, bottom shock bolt out, two nuts on the top hat, and the long bolt through the inboard side of the upper control arm. Turns out the spring compressor was unnecessary, with the upper control arm disconnected it's easy to wiggle the strut out and get the coilover in there.
The end link angle in the front looks a little funky, is that normal? I guess once the car isn't up in the air and the suspension is at ride height it will look better.
Rears look better for angle:
I also assume that I put the rear bar on correctly (the angle of the end links would be really crazy the other way around). The front bar looks symmetrical, yeah?
#64
Posted 02-06-2012 02:24 AM
Ron
RAmotorsports
#65
Posted 02-06-2012 02:35 AM
Put both sway bars on the soft setting Austin...farthest from the bend in the sway bar. Make sure you load your suspension before you tighten any of the A arm bolts...put a jack under the LCA and lift until that corner of the car lifts off the jack stand...then tighten away! Did you put new bearings in the rear while you had the axles out? Repack the fronts(or new)?
I didn't have to take any of the knuckles off to get the struts in, so I haven't fiddled with the hubs yet, but I'll at least repack the fronts. Definitely will start the sways at full soft for the shakedown and then dial it in from there.
#66
Posted 03-04-2012 06:53 PM
#67
Posted 03-04-2012 10:53 PM
Of course, the PPF bolts were a huge pain and I spun one of the pressed-in nuts
Nothing a little vise grip action wouldn't solve, though:
All mounted back up. I'm a little wary of the spun nut, but I was able to get it up to the torque spec without a problem when reconnecting the diff housing to the PPF, so looks like all is well:
#68
Posted 03-04-2012 10:54 PM
#69
Posted 03-04-2012 11:00 PM
So...do I just grab another first oversized piston and call it good? Find a new block? Starting to look like it's going to be tough to be done by the first race
#70
Posted 03-05-2012 12:55 AM
#71
Posted 03-05-2012 01:25 AM
#72
Posted 03-05-2012 02:26 PM
#73
Posted 03-05-2012 03:56 PM
Yeah, an Attarco engine is on the list of possibilities for getting up and running. Easy enough to put my Haag head on it and call it a day. I think perhaps the next step is to go remeasure the cylinders and see if a .010" oversize will fit OK in the cylinder that had the .020". Might end up with lower compression in that cylinder, but wouldn't be the end of the world. What do you guys think?
Austin - congrats on the build so far and on the helpful documentation of the process. WRT to the engine, if you're going to race you want the strongest possible engine so that it doesnt hold you back. Having put in so much time so far, I think it would be a big mistake just slapping it back together with the mismatched pistons. Do it right and you will have lots of fun racing ahead. Just slap it together and I predict you will do it again later and regret taking the easy way out. JMHO
Danny
Danny Steyn Racing | DSR YouTube Channel
Danny Steyn Photography | Adept Studios | Ocean Machinery | OPM Autosports | Rossini Racing Engines | G-Loc Brakes |
2 x SCCA Runoffs Champ | 1 x NASA National Champ | 6 x June Sprints Champ | 10 x ARRC Champ
1 x SCCA Super Sweep | 2 x Triple Crown | 4 x Hoosier Super Tour Points Champ | 6 x Majors Points Champ | 5 x SEDiv Driver of the Year
#74
Posted 03-05-2012 05:04 PM
I spoke with Ron a little earlier today, who told me that Mike Haag thinks I could still be ok and that the stampings might not be oversize markers. Time to go remeasure everything.
#75
Posted 03-07-2012 03:15 AM
I went back and measured the crap out of my pistons and block. Standard sized pistons, block has not been overbored and is well within spec for the standard piston size. Guess I just psyched myself out with those stampings
Anyway, I felt motivated after discovering that I was in fact, not totally screwed, and put the new rings on the pistons and bolted them to the crankshaft.
Easy-peasy...once I figured out that if you over tighten your ring compressor you will hate life.
Rinse and repeat:
#76
Posted 03-07-2012 03:16 AM
#77
Posted 03-07-2012 03:17 AM
#78
Posted 03-08-2012 12:02 AM
#79
Posted 03-12-2012 01:22 AM
We got a ton of work done:
After a little work, Mike Haag's excellent head goes on:
Alberto and Brandon working on the drive axles:
Nice work, boys!
They also pulled the front hubs for repacking and put the R package tie rod ends on:
#80
Posted 03-12-2012 01:24 AM
Bolting things onto the block went smoothly. No surprises here.
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: build, na, scca, construction, 1991, 1.6L
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