138 replies to this topic

[stillentwint17]

Here is a view of the CAS from below. I was sitting at the crank shaft and took the photo above. I can see oil drops on it..

 

[Keith Novak]

That new looking oil drop is derinately a leak.  Get a new oil ring for the CAS and re-seal the square corners where the valve cover gasket meets the head.  I can never get the CAS to line back up with the slot in the cam without removing the top bracket that holds it in place but it just adds a couple minutes of work

[Keith Novak]

One new tip I learned tonight while doing my own trans...make sure there are no wires dangling in the way when you fit the new trans in and start to button everything back up.  Bench pressing it once into position is sort of a PITA.  If you have to pull it back off, then 2nd time is REALLY annoying.

[Cy Peake]

Jack it up near the drain plug, then wiggle/curse it on there.

[FTodaro]

For the ammount of work that it takes to replace a trans compared to pulling the motor, for me personally, it's woth it to just pull the sucker, bolt it to the engine stand and do it right.  I  don't know if anyone remembers my debacle last year where I rebuilt my motor, found a leak, remvoed it and resealed the pan, still leaked, realized I was missing the oil pump o-ring so I R&R'd the damn thing for a 3rd time in about as many weeks.  (Still quite a strong little motor BTW being a stock resurfaced block with an E-Street head) .The tearing into the motor part wasnt the major pain.  At that point you' can work in a more or less ergonomic position.  Clean up the oil, turn some bolts, add some sealant.  The major pain was the whole getting the motor in and out.  The  tearing into the motor part was messy but not lying on your back with a flashlight messy.

O ring on the oil pump? I am trying to remember ( a year ago) seeing one. As i recall (on the 99/00) the oil pump uses sealer between the pump and the block to mount it. then there is a felt gasket between the oil pump and the Oil pick up line. I don't recall an O ring, except the seal that fits around the crank, the same design as the ones that fit around the cams?

[Keith Novak]

O ring on the oil pump? I am trying to remember ( a year ago) seeing one. As i recall (on the 99/00) the oil pump uses sealer between the pump and the block to mount it. then there is a felt gasket between the oil pump and the Oil pick up line. I don't recall an O ring, except the seal that fits around the crank, the same design as the ones that fit around the cams?

On the NA1.8 at least, there's an o-ring about 3/4" Dia that fits between the engine and oil pump at the pressure relief valve.  It comes separate from the pump and if you look at the diagram in the parts catalog, there's a line from the pump to the o-ring a fair distance from where it goes (indicating it comes separately apparently).  If you do not install that o-ring, with fresh oil in a squeaky clean new engine, it will leak in a location you can't readily see and that oil will find it's way down to drip from the oil pan bolts leading you to believe the pan is leaking.  Confounded with this leak after re-sealing the pan, I looked at the back of another oil pump and thought "What goes in that groove?"  Rat Farts!  Time to pull the engine a 3rd time.

[stillentwint17]

That new looking oil drop is derinately a leak.  Get a new oil ring for the CAS and re-seal the square corners where the valve cover gasket meets the head.  I can never get the CAS to line back up with the slot in the cam without removing the top bracket that holds it in place but it just adds a couple minutes of work

Hi Keith,

 

I will purchase a new CAS oil ring today. Thanks for the heads up on backing it out.

 

Do i also need to purchase a valve cover gasket or just re-seal the corners with a RTV or something. I've never looked at a valve cover gasket so just unsure at the minute.

[wheel]

trimless,

I put the tranny in the ASedan this weekend and used your suggestion of two headless bolts in the bottom holes in the bell housing.   How sweet.  The most painless installation in history.  Thanks for the idea.

wheel

[Keith Novak]

Probably no need to replace the valve cover gasket.  They last forever.  Clean off the old RTV at the sharp corners on the sides of the cams, add a dab of RTV to each one and set the valve cover back on.  I wait a few minutes for the RTV before bolting it back tight.

[trimless]

Glad you found it helpful wheel!

[FTodaro]

On the NA1.8 at least, there's an o-ring about 3/4" Dia that fits between the engine and oil pump at the pressure relief valve.  It comes separate from the pump and if you look at the diagram in the parts catalog, there's a line from the pump to the o-ring a fair distance from where it goes (indicating it comes separately apparently).  If you do not install that o-ring, with fresh oil in a squeaky clean new engine, it will leak in a location you can't readily see and that oil will find it's way down to drip from the oil pan bolts leading you to believe the pan is leaking.  Confounded with this leak after re-sealing the pan, I looked at the back of another oil pump and thought "What goes in that groove?"  Rat Farts!  Time to pull the engine a 3rd time.

I think i know what you are talking about nowin the pump there is a hole that goes to the block to push the oil throught the motor. I have an old pump I can look at.

 

My question to you Keith, if that was the problem the oil would leak in the front of the motor under the oil pump, (correct) mine is leaking out of the bottom of the trans below the rear main.

 

I started pulling things apart tonight i should have it off tommarow night and should be able to see what the story.

[Keith Novak]

You'd think that it would drip from under the pump.  What was happening though is that the oil was coming out the back where the pump protrudes off the RHS of the engine under the alt.  The oil would work it's way down the side of the pan and drip roughly mid engine.  When I pulled the pulley off there was in fact oil on the front and caught in the lip on the front of the pan (the 2nd time) but I'd find the leak before it started to drip from there.   I doubt it would make it all the way back to the trans but I wouldn't rule out a leak higher up and farther forward than you spot the oil.

[stillentwint17]

Glad you found it helpful wheel!

How long should the screws be?

[Keith Novak]

The bellhousing bolts are just shy of 3".  That length works pretty well.  Just don't thread them in too far.  Makes it hard to get them out when the trans is in place. 

[fotostars]

How long should the screws be?

 

I haven't re-installed yet, missing a few parts for the rebuild. But here is the "tool" I built for it.

Cut the head of a bolt you will not reuse (obviously) and slot it so you can unscrew it with a flathead screw driver when you're done...

Tada!! Brilliant idea...

 

[stillentwint17]

Nice guys. I'll have to make some of those at work tomorrow.

 

So sh*t, another night, another problem....

 

Are there any tricks to get the oil seal out of the front transmission cover (B622-16-220)? I tried to get it out for about an hour. Its really locked in there. If i knew how much of a PITA it was i wouldnt of bothered touching it. I contacted Mazda to try get another one but i only have 4 nights left to get the car all back together prior to my next track event. Does anyone have a good idea? You think i can blow torch it off. Theres hardly anything left on the inner portion of the seal. Its basically just wedged into the blind hole...

[Ron Alan]

Have a tranny you can come get!

[stillentwint17]

Have a tranny you can come get!

Thats an option but I'll try for another day and see how things go. I need the car ready by this weekend.

[stillentwint17]

Transmission cover front seal by input shaft. How the F*&k do you get this thing out?

[Adax]

One of these will work, but be careful with it or you will gouge the cover.

 

http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B0002SRCKG