183 replies to this topic

[Bench Racer]

I would caution anyone trying this method...$130 mistake, bent two arms, doesn't take much to bend them....

 

Thank you.
 

[FTodaro]

I understand the Mazda is starting to ship the harder version of there offerings. the softer version is still on Back order. Hopefully folks can post their results pics of how its going. Thanks Deyan for your comments. if you don't have any spares on hand that could be a problem.

[Jim Drago]

 

That is not the case, this bushing will retain the original characteristics of W52208 (IE: a one piece bonded bushing with a steel sleeve). Below is an image of what the bushing will look like (only difference is some slight knurling and grease retention methods are being added to the inside bore of the bushing. This means that once the bushing is pressed into place at the desired angel, it can no longer be adjusted/changed. I hope this has helped clarify some info about KCA452, but please let me know if you have any other questions I can help you with.

 

As Orton13 posted, they expect the bushings mid March.

 

I have used these bushings in our cars, they worked great and when back in stock we will order more. As far as   "This means that once the bushing is pressed into place at the desired angel, it can no longer be adjusted/changed."  These are straight forward to put in, we installed for max offset and get about 4+ degrees of camber at normal ride heights, we run almost mid way on cam adjustment bolts now. I don't see a scenario where you would want to move or adjust after installation unless you installed incorrectly. Once installed correctly, I suggest you pin the bushing in place. We simply drilled a small hole and popped a rivet through the arm and into the metal sleeve. Checked after two weekends and no movement at all in bushings

Jim

 

[Johnny D]

Sorry if this was already posted...prices at the bottom.
http://www.mazdamoto...10001&langId=-1

J~

[Bench Racer]

Below is there additional comment about the bushings.

 

That is not the case, this bushing will retain the original characteristics of W52208 (IE: a one piece bonded bushing with a steel sleeve). Below is an image of what the bushing will look like (only difference is some slight knurling and grease retention methods are being added to the inside bore of the bushing. This means that once the bushing is pressed into place at the desired angel, it can no longer be adjusted/changed. I hope this has helped clarify some info about KCA452, but please let me know if you have any other questions I can help you with.

 

As Orton13 posted, they expect the bushings mid March.

 

This info ^ was/is a direct quote from WhiteLine.
 

[Steve Scheifler]

Ouch!! Sorry to hear that. I did this on some pretty old arms with no problem at all, but certainly there is risk if the bushings require a lot of force.

[Neddy]

Any have some news on the Whiteline bushes ETA?

 

Cheers.

[B(Kuch)Kucera45]

I'm to lazy to read all of these posts but does anyone know if the bushings fit all the years or are they diff. ?

[chris haldeman]

Fit all

[Bench Racer]

Referencing WhiteLine, the same 1990/2005.

[Bench Racer]

Understand some have received WhiteLine offset bushings where inner sleeves do not fit upper control arm long bolt. My inner sleeves all fit fine. Completely removed control arms from car. Used a three jaw puller to remove original MazdaComp bushings. I in my case removed the paint from the inside of the control arm steel tubes. Remove any rust or crud you may have.  Two of the outer sleeved offset bushings upon pressing went in square to the world, easy peasy. Two of the bushing chose to be a pain in the ass. I was using a large socket that squeezed the inner plastic material a bit and then rested against the outer metal sleeve. I gently hammered the end of the socket to get squared up before using a 12 ton floor press. If one had a length of tubing similar to the outer metal sleeve, that would be better than a socket for squaring up/pressing in the sleeve. Measure the length of your sub frame tube the long bolt travels through and don't push the offset bushings in to far. I measured and pushed the offset bushing in to maybe 1/32 less that the tube measured length. The piss me off issue was that the offset steel sleeve is being pressed into a I believe standard tube (not all that round) welded to the control arm. Three degrees of legal negative camber if you want it is not an issue and you could have four if desired. 

 

EDIT:

 

For my 2 cents, with the lengths and diameters were working with, it is what it is.

[DrDomm]

Has there been any advances in a procedure to install these things?  Do you grease the metal sleeve/control arm tubes?  Any suggestions on lining up the 2 holes?

[davew]

We do it in the hydralic press.

 

Line up the first bushing and press it in. We made a tube to replicate the tube in the sub-frame. Using the original bolt as a guide, press the second bushing in to the tube spacer. make sure the bolt slides in and out easily and you are done. We have done about 30 sets and have the install down to about 10 minutes.

[FTodaro]

I just use a press to press out the old. I cut a piece of 2x2 rectangular tubing it is the exact size to use as a back stop for the control arm and allow the old bushing to be pressed out.

Then on the install, i align up the new bushing by hand get it started in a jaw vice and then finish it off in the press.

 

While i am at it, spot weld the upper ball joint in the control arm, run a tap on the threads, repack the upper joint and install a new boot.

 

Takes me about 30 min. once the control arm is off.

 

I cover that with some pictures in my Build Blog.

[DrDomm]

Ok, sounds simple...maybe I'm just too worried about the alignment of the holes.  Perhaps "pretty close" is good enough.

 

(I have a serious efficiency problem by analyzing too much)

[davew]

Pretty close will not allow the bolt to pass through. They must be lined up Very F-ing close

[Caveman-kwebb99]

Pretty close will not allow the bolt to pass through. They must be lined up Very F-ing close

 

Dave please post pics of how you guys are doing this... it would be helpful to most even a caveman can learn better ways to chizzle on a stone tablet!

[ChrisA]

Pretty close will not allow the bolt to pass through. They must be lined up Very F-ing close

Guess it's a moot point, but the extended ball-joint method would eleminate this issue. Just saying.

[Caveman-kwebb99]

Guess it's a moot point, but the extended ball-joint method would eleminate this issue. Just saying.

 

blue printed spindles already had the issue taken care of 

[davew]

Kyle, I just want to chizzle you schnizzle