Frank, I think its $560 plus a core charge.
They only take a Manual rack as a core and Mazda Comp does not accept cores.
Frank, I think its $560 plus a core charge.
They only take a Manual rack as a core and Mazda Comp does not accept cores.
Did a little minor work yesterday, removed all the control arms from the subframes prior to painting. Also pressed the stock bushings out of the front upper control arms in preparation for installing the whiteline offset bushings.
I better not post any photos of this though. You see, rulebook says it's legal to run offset bushings, but maybe it doesn't say it's legal to remove the oem bushings. Wouldn't want anybody calling me out on this....
You see, rulebook says it's legal to run offset bushings, but maybe it doesn't say it's legal to remove the oem bushings. Wouldn't want anybody calling me out on this....
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A little sensitive this morning, I believe I saw big bird ^
"may be replaced with non metallic offset bushings,"
Doing a great job, keep it coming. It's winter season for we in the Northern Conference with plenty of time to be troublesome, bitchy, picky, rules nerds.
Painted the subframes. I always find it amazing that just by shooting $3 of paint on something makes it look like it's worth twice as much.
Offset bushings installed using the press. Painted the control arms and other bits. I used up the single can of spray paint I had painting the subframes, so for these I used rustoleum protective enamel paint I had in the cupboard. It's a more glossy finish. The stuff was dirt cheap for the quart and I've used it for several projects now, can't seem to use it up. In the can it's pretty thick, so when you thin it it goes a long way. I thinned with acetone, and shot through a cheapo HVLP gun. Came out decent, considering prep work consisted solely of 'wiping down with solvent', and that I didn't even bother to put a water trap on the air compressor. Good enough for control arms, anyway!
The can Rustoleum is good stuff. I use the Rustoleum all the time in a cheapie HF gun. It still peels if you get brake fluid on it though single stage auto enamel does as well. Powder coating or higher end paint seems to be the only thing that is brake fluid resistant. You could use a powder coat rig, right next to that plasma table...
I don't know where you are in Michitucky but there is a a place in Allen Park called Techshop that is a full, self service shop. Full metal/machine shop, wood shop, plastics, textiles, waterjet and laser cutting. They are a chain. We first used them to kickstart production and prototyping until we invested in the tooling. Now we use them for one offs and prototypes. You join as a member, take some training on the tools and you're good to go. http://www.techshop.ws/ts_detroit.html I bought a $50 used electric oven on Craigslist and an Eastwood entry level power coat rig a few years ago for small stuff but do the production runs at Techshop where they've got a higher end gun and a big oven.
The can Rustoleum is good stuff. I use the Rustoleum all the time in a cheapie HF gun. It still peels if you get brake fluid on it though single stage auto enamel does as well. Powder coating or higher end paint seems to be the only thing that is brake fluid resistant. You could use a powder coat rig, right next to that plasma table...
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I don't know where you are in Michitucky but there is a a place in Allen Park called Techshop that is a full, self service shop. Full metal/machine shop, wood shop, plastics, textiles, waterjet and laser cutting. They are a chain. We first used them to kickstart production and prototyping until we invested in the tooling. Now we use them for one offs and prototypes. You join as a member, take some training on the tools and you're good to go. http://www.techshop.ws/ts_detroit.html I bought a $50 used electric oven on Craigslist and an Eastwood entry level power coat rig a few years ago for small stuff but do the production runs at Techshop where they've got a higher end gun and a big oven.
Agreed, the rustoleum seems quite good, easy to spray, hard durable finish. Epecially good for the price of ~$8 a quart! I'm considering using it for the interior, if I can find a silver/gray that has enough of a gloss finish. They have a 'high gloss gray' but the gray is too dark I think. They have a bunch of gloss whites, but I'm concerned white might be too bright/contrasting to the dark exterior color. The silvers unfortunately don't have gloss in their name. That doesn't mean they aren't glossy, I'll just have to do some research or try them out.
Yeah, the powder coat rig can go right next to the plasma table, which is next to the sand blasting cabinet, which is opposite the vented paint booth. Then I wake up.
Techshop looks neat, but for $1650 a year I can buy a lot of tools, and not have to drive to use them. I wish they did day rentals for those rare times I need a mill or lathe, etc.
With all the nice looking paint, this build must be over 15k..
Richard Astacio
2003 Spec Miata VVT & 2013 Cup Car
Agreed, the rustoleum seems quite good, easy to spray, hard durable finish. Epecially good for the price of ~$8 a quart! I'm considering using it for the interior, if I can find a silver/gray that has enough of a gloss finish. They have a 'high gloss gray' but the gray is too dark I think. They have a bunch of gloss whites, but I'm concerned white might be too bright/contrasting to the dark exterior color. The silvers unfortunately don't have gloss in their name. That doesn't mean they aren't glossy, I'll just have to do some research or try them out.
Yeah, the powder coat rig can go right next to the plasma table, which is next to the sand blasting cabinet, which is opposite the vented paint booth. Then I wake up.
Techshop looks neat, but for $1650 a year I can buy a lot of tools, and not have to drive to use them. I wish they did day rentals for those rare times I need a mill or lathe, etc.
I started out using a two part epoxy on my interior, it is a vary hard shinny finish, but it runs like crazy and impossible to stop from dripping. In my most recent build i used oil based rustoleum and it looks better and holds up well. I just use a brush and do two coats.
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region
The high density foam rollers work well with the rustoleum too.
Kyle
-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info
video: vimeo.com/tomhampton
Support: X-Factor Racing
I didn't lose, I just got outspent!
Different strokes for different folks. Had a friend (yes Danny) spray the driver compartment/roll cage same color red as outside of car.
I like lighter colors on the inside as they show dirt and leaks better. I use Ermine White from TCP Global, it's a single stage enamel. I find the auto paint more chip and scratch resistant than the Rustoleum. Wheeler has a brush/rattle can method for using Rustoleum on the interior in his book.
Techshop offers day passes but only after you've been a member. I pay $150 a month, we now get my wife a day pass. The last day pass we bought was $50. It was less expensive short term for us to keep using Techshop but less flexible and scalable. For what we are doing that $1800 a year is a down payment on some of the machines or the cost per month of leasing a couple of machines. St Louis will be the next shop to come online. The big cost in getting into it isn't the membership, it's the safety training. They are between $100 and $200 each.
-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info
video: vimeo.com/tomhampton
Support: X-Factor Racing
I didn't lose, I just got outspent!
Erik Hardy and I tested out our new Serdi machine tonight. Scrap 94 cylinder head, messed around with different relief cut depths, etc, etc. Just experimenting. Serdi machine works great! Can't believe how little we paid for it.
Over priced, I'd have gone with the Sunnen.
And here I figured people would be commenting on the Erik Hardy novel dewalt-method of engine machining. Perhaps they are just speechless due to the absurdity of machining relief cuts using a cordless drill! All joking aside, I'm impressed with how well it works. Very nice cuts and surface finish.
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