Frank, which did you paint first, the chassis or the cage? Also worried mine will have a couple tight spots between the cage and sheet metal that will need to be sprayed because I can't fit a brush in there. Thoughts?

SM Build: Attempt at a Front Running Car for Under $15k all-in
#501
Posted 02-05-2016 09:08 PM

Frank, which did you paint first, the chassis or the cage? Also worried mine will have a couple tight spots between the cage and sheet metal that will need to be sprayed because I can't fit a brush in there. Thoughts?



#502
Posted 02-05-2016 10:43 PM

Built up the coilovers tonight with the fat cat kit. Then reinstalled the rear subframe and rear control arms and rear coilovers.
No instructions shipped with the fat cat kit. Thankfully, after searching google for a while online, I was able to find the fat cat instructions via the 5x racing website!
Note, I only have the spring perches cranked up so high so that the springs hold pressure on the rubber upper spring retainer until the glue cures...
- Roberts37 likes this



#503
Posted 02-06-2016 12:02 AM

And here I figured people would be commenting on the Erik Hardy novel dewalt-method of engine machining. Perhaps they are just speechless due to the absurdity of machining relief cuts using a cordless drill!
All joking aside, I'm impressed with how well it works. Very nice cuts and surface finish.
I'm just hoping you left a reasonable margin for error unless you had access to one of the few go/no-go gauge sets. Miss by a hair in one direction, the gauge drops and the head is junk for SM. Tough on the budget.


#504
Posted 02-06-2016 12:12 AM

I'm just hoping you left a reasonable margin for error unless you had access to one of the few go/no-go gauge sets. Miss by a hair in one direction, the gauge drops and the head is junk for SM. Tough on the budget.
We have not cut our real cylinder heads yet. That was a scrap head we were practicing on.
Erik fabricated no-go inspection gauges. Plus we will be machining to well under the spec'd dimensions...



#505
Posted 02-06-2016 12:26 AM

Right, but I assume the goal is to cut the real ones. The only gauges that matter of course are the ones in tech, but if Erik can replicate them reliably he could probably sell a few sets. I admire your willingness to tackle all that yourself and I'm impressed with your progress. You are certainly more productive than I have been lately.


#506
Posted 02-06-2016 06:31 AM

Frank, which did you paint first, the chassis or the cage? Also worried mine will have a couple tight spots between the cage and sheet metal that will need to be sprayed because I can't fit a brush in there. Thoughts?
Cage first, then the tub. you can reach 99.5% of the metal with a brush.
- speedengineer likes this
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region




#507
Posted 02-06-2016 10:40 AM

V2 Motorsports
#508
Posted 02-06-2016 11:14 AM

I used gorilla glue as suggested. A little brake cleaner on both surfaces first and then let it sit overnight before assemble(with a little pressure). So far so good as far as i can tell...but Ralphs method sounds great as well...just not something most would have in their garage?
Ron
RAmotorsports


#509
Posted 02-06-2016 11:19 AM

That is what we do as well and by far the best way to do it. I had same issues with gorilla glue not holding.What glue did you use on the fat cats?. I ask because at some time ago they recommended gorilla glue. It doesn't hold and the perch will fall and cause unpredictable handling. We rough up both surfaces with a grinder and glue them in with polyurethane windshield adhesive. I put weight on them and let the glue cure for a day.
Funny side story: As a young man growing up in my dads body shop when urethane was just becoming mandatory in windshield replacement as the windshield was a "structural" part of the car... at 16-18 years old, I wanted clean hands as I found out quickly girls don't like dirty nasty hands.. Urethane can make a mess of your hands!! I was tired of having black in the grooves of my fingers.. so our glass rep stopped by and and I asked.. Do you have anything that will get this off your hands? His reply was classic. He said" I have something that gets it off every time" I asked what it was .. "time my man, time and time alone gets that off "

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East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080














#510
Posted 02-06-2016 12:22 PM

You can get a tube of polyurethane at most auto parts stores. It's a 3m product so it's a bit pricy. $22-$24 per tube. Shelf life once open is not that long.
Just another one of those things that experience teaches you.
And yes your right Jim time works very well to get it off your hands.
V2 Motorsports
#511
Posted 02-06-2016 02:12 PM

Not only is it impossible to get off but it finds its way everywhere I occasionally work with ABS pipe and glue...same problem
Ron
RAmotorsports


#512
Posted 02-06-2016 02:20 PM

V2 Motorsports
#513
Posted 02-06-2016 04:50 PM

What glue did you use on the fat cats?. I ask because at some time ago they recommended gorilla glue. It doesn't hold and the perch will fall and cause unpredictable handling. We rough up both surfaces with a grinder and glue them in with polyurethane windshield adhesive. I put weight on them and let the glue cure for a day.
I have used two part epoxy that works well. I have also not glued them at all. the newer version is smaller and it just rides on top of the shock and not sure it needs to be glued.
Frank
TnT Racing
SCCA Ohio Valley Region




#514
Posted 02-06-2016 09:38 PM

Checked my glue strength earlier, mine came apart pretty easy pulling on them, so I will be redoing. Thanks for the tip Ralph.
Also worked on cylinder heads today. The pilot tool we had broke, so decided to upgrade equipment.



#515
Posted 02-06-2016 09:49 PM

The gorilla glue is more specific to a pourious surface application.
This isn't really true. Poly glue adheres very well to nonporous material...muxh better than pva. However, it is very sensitive to proper procedure---in particular, it requires clamping pressure.
Without adequate clamping pressure the glue will expand like the spray foam and create a weak layer. Most people aren't aware of this point. So, g-glue joints end up weak.
In addition the glue is fairly brittle, so it doesn't handle the repeated flexing of a suspension joint.
Nnevertheless, the flexible windshield poly adhesive is a much better application because none of the above factors come into play.
-tch
Build: www.tomhampton.info
video: vimeo.com/tomhampton
Support: X-Factor Racing
I didn't lose, I just got outspent!



#516
Posted 02-06-2016 10:11 PM

Tom no idea if your right or not, really don't care. Just love when people contradict RalphThis isn't really true. Poly glue adheres very well to nonporous material...muxh better than pva. However, it is very sensitive to proper procedure---in particular, it requires clamping pressure.


- Tom Hampton and 38bfast like this
East Street Auto Parts
Jim@Eaststreet.com
800 700 9080














#517
Posted 02-06-2016 10:15 PM

This isn't really true. Poly glue adheres very well to nonporous material...muxh better than pva. However, it is very sensitive to proper procedure---in particular, it requires clamping pressure.
Without adequate clamping pressure the glue will expand like the spray foam and create a weak layer. Most people aren't aware of this point. So, g-glue joints end up weak.
In addition the glue is fairly brittle, so it doesn't handle the repeated flexing of a suspension joint.
Nnevertheless, the flexible windshield poly adhesive is a much better application because none of the above factors come into play.
Correct Tom. Didn't want to get into all the specifics of G-Glue other than our application was not the best suited.
Just to note due to its expansion feature it's very will suited for a more porious application to maximize bite. And correctly stated camping is a must.
Frank I would believe that a two part epoxy might be a bit ridged / brittle bond to control the flex of the poly upper perch.
As far as not gluing them at all opinions may very but from my data we will always glue them.
V2 Motorsports
#518
Posted 02-06-2016 10:16 PM

Good info, if a bit late.



#519
Posted 02-06-2016 10:24 PM

Tom no idea if your right or not, really don't care. Just love when people contradict Ralph
Get him started on Mig Vs Tig welding some day
Screw welding Jim just glue it.
Alcualy my old plane was a glued together rather than riveted. Or more appropriately named structal adhesive. Passangers were never happy to hear that when we were in flight.
The entire structure on the louts Elise Exige and Evora are bonded without any welding or riveting.
V2 Motorsports
#520
Posted 02-06-2016 10:46 PM

- Jim Drago, Danny Steyn and speedengineer like this
V2 Motorsports
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