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Hub recommendations?

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#41
OrangeCrush86

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What is this SKF brand? I have never heard of them. Is there some specific place to buy them from?


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#42
Jim Drago

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https://www.skf.com/...cing/index.html

 

SKF BR930143
 

 several sell, google that part number. I have never used them


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#43
Bench Racer

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Jim, was reading back in the day front hub stuff. Karl was talking, he heard, never viewed 20 ball front hubs. ???


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#44
Ron Alan

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Can anyone find the Jim Daniels free wheeling hub video from a bunch of years ago?

 

Did a quick search:

 

 

For all the newbies on here...think about this :)


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#45
Steve Scheifler

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What, couldn’t find a video of him pulling the car with his fish scale?

Sure, there is some potential to reduce mechanical losses, and that little demonstration doesn’t even attempt to consider what hppens when the hubs are loaded with about 600 lbs. But, I’m not convinced that the only difference between those two is simply that one was REM treated. It smelled a lot like hype and a psych job at the time and still does. That said, I wouldn’t wager much either way. But let’s take it at face value for a moment. Although there is probably more to be lost/gained in hubs than the infamous half-shaft CVs, it’s still pretty small.

While tuning an H-prod car on the dyno just yesterday I was again reminded of how much heat is generated to dissipate HP through friction. We were having trouble matching our previous baseline from the end of last season before trying anything new. The power curve was right but we were still 2hp low at peak and a roughly equal percent low throughout the range. So I checked the rear brake rotors and sure enough, one was warmer than it should be and the other was too hot to touch. We freed up the pads and bang, the power curve was a near perfect overlay of the baseline. So right there I was observing a very accurate demonstration of the heat produced to dissipate 2hp. Wheel bearings are no different. If they are costing you power then they produce heat, period. And they do of course, no doubt about that, and a free spinning one will do that less (IF under load the oil film isn’t breached). I can’t use the dyno to test the non-driven fronts of course but the rears get only warm to the touch which tells me that total loss is low and potential improvement by any means is significantly less. So I’m not saying it’s nothing, I’m just trying to help put it into perspective before absurd numbers are thrown around as they were with the CV joints.
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